Why start with crap? Top Quality DIY for $347

KCvale

KCvale

Well-Known Member
If you are tired how hearing how great sub $100 Huffy bikes and HT/Boy go fast/Flying Horse/Who knows what else kits are and just want a top quality bike that will last with minimal effort to build like not having to tear your motor and bike apart to make them right at least through the holiday season this is what I have found and just sharing it.

Take my research and advice or leave it as it makes no difference to me, I share it because I started here and wish I had this timely advice when I started.

2011+ Skyhawk 48 or 66cc motor kit $135, ~$150 delivered.
http://gasbike.net

Marargi Touch coaster brake bicycle for ~$150 delivered (I scored my 2 for $126 delivered each but they just changed the prices as I type this).
http://livewellsports.com/micargi-b...e-single-sp-36h-black-rims-beach-cruiser-bike
BikeBerry has them too but delivered $10 MORE.

One 1 1/2" Sick Bikes small front mount and Iridium spark plug for ~$27 delivered.

Front C-brake from most any bike store $20.

Total for a nice damn DIY bike for $347 delivered that is solid and safe.

With my proven first hand knowledge of quality repeatedly proven again and again without ever having to break anything down first or do any other Micky Mouse crap to make it go and keep it running you just can't go wrong with that formula with quality parts on sale and you will actually have a ride that lasts.

Here are couple of examples.

2_Touch5L.jpg


2_WhitePhatDoneLeft.jpg


A little spray paint goes a long way and foam grips and rewiring plus the cable matching I do adds value but you get the jest.

Bottom line?
Why start with crap when if you time it right you can actually build a kick ass nice solid safe bike for less than a POS Huffy and crap motor?

Yes, I am trying to change the physiology of what the baseline low budget build is for those DON'T want to make their MB a constant fix hobby but a form of low maintenance reliable transportation and for this money during the holiday sales that parts formula just flat rocks and I'm building a few more with it ;-}
 
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KCvale said:
If you are tired how hearing how great sub $100 Huffy bikes and HT/Boy go fast/Flying Horse/Who knows what else kits are and just want a top quality bike that will last with minimal effort to build like not having to tear your motor and bike apart to make them right at least through the holiday season this is what I have found and just sharing it.

Take my research and advice or leave it as it makes no difference to me, I share it because I started here and wish I had this timely advice when I started.

2011+ Skyhawk 48 or 66cc motor kit $135, ~$150 delivered.
http://gasbike.net

Marargi Touch coaster brake bicycle for ~$150 delivered (I scored my 2 for $126 delivered each but they just changed the prices as I type this).
http://livewellsports.com/micargi-b...e-single-sp-36h-black-rims-beach-cruiser-bike
BikeBerry has them too but delivered $10 MORE.

One 1 1/2" Sick Bikes small front mount and Iridium spark plug for ~$27 delivered.

Front C-brake from most any bike store $20.

Total for a nice damn DIY bike for $347 delivered that is solid and safe.

With my proven first hand knowledge of quality repeatedly proven again and again without ever having to break anything down first or do any other Micky Mouse crap to make it go and keep it running you just can't go wrong with that formula with quality parts on sale and you will actually have a ride that lasts.

Just a tip from a professional builder that usually sells this build for $550+ but dropped my price to $500 despite all the extra stuff I do with all the holiday price breaks I got because parts are parts and I pass my savings on when I can.

Here are couple of examples.

2_Touch5L.jpg


2_WhitePhatDoneLeft.jpg


A little spray paint goes a long way and foam grips and rewiring plus the cable matching I do adds value but you get the jest.

Bottom line?
Why start with crap when if you time it right you can actually build a kick ass nice solid safe bike for less than a POS Huffy and crap motor?

Yes, I am trying to change the physiology of what the baseline low budget build is for those DON'T want to make their MB a constant fix hobby but a form of low maintenance reliable transportation and for this money during the holiday sales that parts formula just flat rocks and I'm building a few more with it ;-}
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Hmm..reliability out of a chain drive. ROTFLMAO-or our fellow riders could just buy a friction kit for $279 and then they are gonna have a reliable kit..friction drive is definitaly the way to go for reliability. any chain drive is going to look cool but they are not reliable for over a 100miles. theres plenty of post to prove me right..if you want reliability get a friction drive kit..bottom line..theres to much going on with chain drives. there good kits if you like to tinker all the time..which some people do!
but i like riding..i dont wanna be late for work because my chain tensioner broke or my chain stretched out or i could afford all the upgrades and ended up walking..
 
every set up has disadvantages i prefer frame mount for balance and looks he got lucky and got a good kit and found a solid bike and did everything for cheap me i would have sprung for a few different things but he did good you gave up and through a fit then bought a friction drive we all have our way of doing things.

dont badmouth the kits or other peoples builds or you will have it come back with the negatives of your setup
 
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Hey 2stroker I don't buy your logic that chain drives are bad and only good for 100 miles when the chain drive has been used for decades.
 
2stroker said:
Hmm..reliability out of a chain drive. ROTFLMAO-or our fellow riders could just buy a friction kit for $279 and then they are gonna have a reliable kit..friction drive is definitaly the way to go for reliability. any chain drive is going to look cool but they are not reliable for over a 100miles. theres plenty of post to prove me right..if you want reliability get a friction drive kit..bottom line..theres to much going on with chain drives. there good kits if you like to tinker all the time..which some people do!
but i like riding..i dont wanna be late for work because my chain tensioner broke or my chain stretched out or i could afford all the upgrades and ended up walking..
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if you want reliability get a four stroke, friction or chain drive. its a dime a dozen, with a chain drive you replace your chain once a year and some chain lube, with a friction drive you replace you back tire more often and drive rollers every now and again, that said i have well over 2000 miles this summer alone on my chain driven four stroke. never left me stranded once, never one problem, and if you do a proper build your tensioner if you need on will be on the pedal side, and it takes 30 seconds to inspect your chain tension and 5 minutes to adjust.
 
I'l just put my $0.02 in really quick. I have a Huffy Cranbrook purchased in June 2010 and a BGF 68.5cc engine purchased in April 2011.
 
KCvale said:
Take my research and advice or leave it as it makes no difference to me, I share it because I started here and wish I had this timely advice when I started.
;-}
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Thanks for sharing your professional experience KC. It should carry a lot more weight than avarage joe's opinion, based on his one or two builds. New people starting out would probably be doing themselves a favor heeding your advise.
 
yea and i would like to see a friction drive beat a chain drive as far as performance and what happens if it rains/the roads are wet where are you going to be with the friction drive also you are going to be wet as h3ll by the time you get anywhere with no rear fender lots of little issues with friction drive
 
Basically, you can add a front brake to the Cranbrook and replace the rear wheel and you're done. For $100 or less for the bike, anywhere from $45 to $65 for a half decent rear wheel (paid 45 for mine) and $20 for a front brake, you're all in at $180 or less, not including how much whatever kit you buy costs. My Cranbrook hauls my 280lb butt all over the place at 30mph all day long, and the frame is over 2 years old. Whatever motor upgrades one decides to do has nothing to do with which bike they built on.
 
I knew that would stir things up a little. You guys are right though its not cool to put down another fellow rider setup. My bad KC. The topic of the post is why start with crap? So thats putting down other kits also. just saying. I just hear of alot more broken chain drives than i do friction..its a bicycle its supposed to be simple and reliable..if im gonna ride a chain drive im gonna get on my honda cr250. But thats just me. Everyone has there ways. But those are nice builds KC! With the right parts they can be reliable! My Bumblebee gets me every where i need to go with out ever breaking down. I have 6,000 miles on it and haven't pedaled home one time. Im sure your kits are just as reliable! Nice Builds!
 
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Yeah my son's bike has had issue after issue. But none can be traced to the bike itself. Just the parts added on to motorize. Chain failure, tank stud failure x2, motor mount failure, Dax carb mount failure.
 
2stroker said:
I knew that would stir things up a little. You guys are right though its not cool to put down another fellow rider setup. My bad KC. The topic of the post is why start with crap? So thats putting down other kits also. just saying. I just hear of alot more broken chain drives than i do friction..its a bicycle its supposed to be simple and reliable..if im gonna ride a chain drive im gonna get on my honda cr250. But thats just me. Everyone has there ways. But those are nice builds KC! With the right parts they can be reliable! My Bumblebee gets me every where i need to go with out ever breaking down. I have 6,000 miles on it and haven't pedaled home one time. Im sure your kits are just as reliable! Nice Builds!
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The kit chains break a lot because, like all the other parts in the kit, they are made in sweatshop factories in China. If you replace a poor quality chain with another poor quality chain, its still going to break. I bought kmc Z410H-NP chain. I dont know what the z stands for, the 410 is the size of the chain, the H is for heavy duty, and the np stands for nickel plated. This chain has 20% thicker side plates than standard 410 chain. I got 114L of it on Amazon for $12 shipped, and thats probably 6 to 8 dollars less than what my local bike shop would charge for it. I am not saying its the absolute best chain one can buy for a motorized bicycle, but its certainly very high quality and it wont break.
 
bigbutterbean said:
The kit chains break a lot because, like all the other parts in the kit, they are made in sweatshop factories in China. If you replace a poor quality chain with another poor quality chain, its still going to break. I bought kmc Z410H-NP chain. I dont know what the z stands for, the 410 is the size of the chain, the H is for heavy duty, and the np stands for nickel plated. This chain has 20% thicker side plates than standard 410 chain. I got 114L of it on Amazon for $12 shipped, and thats probably 6 to 8 dollars less than what my local bike shop would charge for it. I am not saying its the absolute best chain one can buy for a motorized bicycle, but its certainly very high quality and it wont break.
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A heavy duty chain is a must! I upgraded my chain on my chain drive when 1st got it and i didnt have any problems with it. Do you have any other upgrades? .check out this bee i just found on amazon. I like what the guy did with it51stVexzNIL.jpg
I like his paint job and his ada airfilter..I was looking for a airfilter for mine today and stumbled across this.
 
JimsFelt66 said:
Yeah my son's bike has had issue after issue. But none can be traced to the bike itself. Just the parts added on to motorize. Chain failure, tank stud failure x2, motor mount failure, Dax carb mount failure.
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Ya you gotta tinker with em! With the right upgrades they can be fun though. Does he still ride it? or is did he get tired of tinkering..i personally ride friction there's just less to break ya know..Dont give up on it they can be alot of fun once reliability is achieved!
 
2stroker said:
A heavy duty chain is a must! I upgraded my chain on my chain drive when 1st got it and i didnt have any problems with it. Do you have any other upgrades? .check out this bee i just found on amazon. I like what the guy did with itView attachment 53801
I like his paint job and his ada airfilter..I was looking for a airfilter for mine today and stumbled across this.
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High compression moped head, expansion chamber exhaust, 2 gallon plastic fuel tank, front drum brake, front suspension, 13"W seat, headlight and mini generator that runs off the magneto, brake light, tail light, side warning lights, heavy duty rear wheel with double walled steel, 12g spokes and Shimano clone coaster hub.
 
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