Felt QX65 Morini S6-C

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SpeedWizzard

New Member
Mar 9, 2012
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Finally got around to starting a thread on this. My current build is a Felt QX65 with a Morini S6-C and a KX6 pipe yet to be installed. So far I have gotten everything except the radiator hoses and pipe hooked up, I'm probably going to run two china mufflers in a U shape to make it quiet as well as the best intake silencer I can think of.. Doesn't look the best but the thing will hopefully go faster than a bat outta sh*t! running a 44t stock sprocket with a ragjoint which is okay I guess but probably not the best idea... :/ It would've been done except for the fact that the flange material I ordered turned out to be too small so it wouldn't fit :-|| one thing i don't get is why they would design the engine so the radiator hose nipples are massively different is size? and does anyone know of a really good high flow but sound deadening muffler or silencer I could use on the end of the china?
 
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Easy Rider

Easy Rider

Santa Cruz Scooter Works
Jan 15, 2008
2,145
7
38
Nor*Cal
Nice! You did a killer job on the mounts.
To make your bike not loud, you also have to work on baffling your carb.
 
Easy Rider

Easy Rider

Santa Cruz Scooter Works
Jan 15, 2008
2,145
7
38
Nor*Cal
Okay Guys, I have no clue what a rag joint with spokes is.
I stared at the pictures and still can't figure what I'm looking for.
What is it?
 
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SpeedWizzard

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Mar 9, 2012
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A rag joint is the stock configuration used on the china kits that is the rubber ring and clamp on either side of the spokes on the rear wheel where the engine drive chain goes.
 
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dmb

Active Member
Dec 4, 2010
1,354
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lakewood ca
1.53 or 39mm or 1.55 and 39.5mm at the o-ring. i would really be leary of the rag, their's better, safer way's. and try not to use that chain adjuster on the power side. none if you can. it's just something to break. good luck dennis
 
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SpeedWizzard

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Mar 9, 2012
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Thanks a heap, and yeah it wasn't my first option but i've tried and can't find a sprocket hub adapter for this bike.... and the chain ajuster is only temporary, i'm in the making of a spring loaded one made of aluminium and a copper guide wheel.
 
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SpeedWizzard

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Mar 9, 2012
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Ok, I couldn't resist. Yesterday I just had to fire it up! I still haven't got the flange material and or completed the fuel system, wheels, finishing the oil cooling and filtration system or the air intake silencer. But I just had to, it was just sitting there waiting to be kicked over... I filled the float bowl with some premix and kicked over a couple times, and WOW was this thing LOUD! I was expecting it to be loud without any exhaust of any kind but WOW, even with tops 5 seconds run time my ears were ringing for like 3 hours. anyway, i'm concerned because all i've done to the clutch so far is take it apart, cleaned out all the gunk and crap that was in the washer stack from the factory and take out the end flat washer to lower the engagement for break in so I can load the engine without revving it too high. when I started it with the choke on, the idle was set pretty low and even then the bike was trying to move forward. the engine wasn't revving too high but the bike was trying to move a fair bit. I thought even with only one washer removed these little buggers would still require fairly high rpm's to engage? any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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dmb

Active Member
Dec 4, 2010
1,354
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36
lakewood ca
leave it like it is. with the rag joint you want it taking off at low HP to be easy on the spokes. she will be kinda of a dog, not unlike a HT. but you dont want to have 8-9hp when the wheel starts to turn. not to beat a dead horse but did you look at the damm good engineering hubs? or call norm at venicemotorbikes about a clamp on style sprocket adapter. everything cost's alot but if your injured, you would gladly go back in time and spend the money on the right combo. right now i'm in the same boat as you. i got over $1000 in wheels and still ain't there yet. dennis
 
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SpeedWizzard

New Member
Mar 9, 2012
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Australia
yeah, I'm pretty certain once I get the money and finish up the exhaust system, i will definitely go to one of sportsman hub adapters or something similar, also leaning towars an broad track racer style tank instead of the china P.O.C.
 
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SpeedWizzard

New Member
Mar 9, 2012
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Australia
Alright, got some minor work done. Drilled and tapped oil pick up and return lines for the clutch, completed air intake silencer, tied down all the loose wires, relocated CDI, mounted oil pump and did an overall rundown of the bike checking every screw and bolt. I'm pretty certain i'm going to go with a sportsman flyer hub adapter as I just wouldn't trust the rag joint I have on now. And does anyone know of a heavy duty 700cc wheel? i've looked around and so far the only option I can see is to use a 26" wheel but I really cant be bothered making the required mods for one to fit.
heres photos of the oil lines, pump and silencer.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/img1263sw.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/img1262tm.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/195/img1261x.jpg/
 
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dmb

Active Member
Dec 4, 2010
1,354
3
36
lakewood ca
oil pump? return lines to the clutch? tell me more i've never seen one. ours are pre-mix and the clutch oil is only in the r/s cover. wow! something new to me. thanks dennis
 
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SpeedWizzard

New Member
Mar 9, 2012
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I drilled and tapped a pickup at the bottom and a return so it sprays directly into the gap between the bell and shoe. I used those RC fuel nipples to attach the lines. My engine is just a stock Morini S6-C with the mentioned mods above.
 
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Easy Rider

Easy Rider

Santa Cruz Scooter Works
Jan 15, 2008
2,145
7
38
Nor*Cal
This is something new? Sounds interesting. I have a disc clutch on mine and I use the stinky mobil one aft. Can you shoot another pic? Where does the return line go and is the 2 stroke and clutch oil mixing?
 
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SpeedWizzard

New Member
Mar 9, 2012
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Australia
I'll have to wait until I get home to take a picture. All it is is a small fuel pump meant for methanol/gas/diesel or smoke oil. there is a pickup below the gear being driven by the clutch bell that goes through three in line filters which also help cool the oil as well, from there it goes into the pump I mounted near the seat (top lef corner of the second photo link just above the CDI), out through the return line and through a fuel nipple tapped into the kick start cover. I lined it up so it goes into the gap between the clutch and bell. I'm also thinking of doing Goat herders "oil weep hole" mod. And Easy, whats you honest opinion on the hole shot disk clutch? I've been wondering if I should buy one but just not sure.
 
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