Cheap B@stard Dyno Build- HF79

[atombikes]

Cheap B@st@rd Dyno Build- HF79

I started a thread on this in the 4 stroke area, but after hanging around on this forum a while it seems this might be the better place for it? Several weeks ago I got a Dyno Von Franco edition cruiser bike for free off craigslist. I had been waiting for probably 2 years for the opportunity to score a cruiser frame for free. As the title implies, as I get older I am starting to believe I am a cheap b@stard.

The goal of this build will be to build a decent looking motored bicycle pretty darn cheap but not sacrifice safety or looks. And I will try to include information on what I did so others may copy if you like.

I started with this:

A major score considering the cost- free. After getting it home and tearing it down, I realized those plastic tank halves were cutting into the paint on the top tube, and had caused a rust hole completely into the tube. The front forks were twisted, and the front wheel gone, so I think this bike was either in an accident or maybe twisted off a car carrier? Dunno. So I will have to braze repair that tube, and as a result, will have to strip that beautiful orange paint. I'm thinking maybe a ratty build, so perhaps flat or matte black.

After much deliberation and hand-wringing, I decided to get a set of springer forks, that will keep everything bicycle standard. For a while I was considering moped forks, motorcycle wheels, etc. But I used my google-fu and found a brand new set of Nirve 1-1/8 threaded springers for $17.00 shipped. I recieved them yesterday, and although they were listed as used, they're brand new. The threads on the steerer had not been touched. The build quality and chrome appear excellent. Seems like it will be strong enough.

So, status of the frame is now this:

I got lucky, the specs on the threaded steerer part of the fork were not listed, the price was so good I just had to buy it and hope it would fit right. It is a perfect fit.

The adjustable stem and threaded headset is from a womens frame MTB I picked up last year (free, of course) found on craigslist.

For the engine, I plan on using a Harbor Freight 79cc engine that I picked up (with a 20% coupon, naturally), for $70.00 total.

I have a Max Torque clutch that I got off ebay a year ago for $20.

Jackshaft components from OMB many moons ago on sale, can't remember cost.

I just ordered an ARAI front drum brake off ebay for $27.00 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390446651541?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

It appears to be an ATOM drum brake clone; the actuator arm says "ARAI NEW", so I don't think this is the same company that used to make tandem drag brakes. Hopefully spare parts will be available for this brake...

And a set of those Wheel Master 26 x 2.125" heavy duty wheels from BikeWorldUSA for $71 shipped. I plan on lacing the drum into the front wheel, and hopefully will not have to buy new spokes; silverbear clued me into a trick wherein you change from 3 cross to 4 cross lacing to take up the spoke length slack. I hope it works, but won't fault anyone if it doesn't. But seems 12 ga spokes are expensive to buy custom cut.

Still looking for a cheap jackshaft backplate. That one on BMI karts looks decent for $65.00:
http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Torque-Converter-Backplate-&-Jackshaft-400825-6206

Anyway, this will be my permanent thread for this build. Thanks for reading along.

 

[young grease monkey]

I am casting a jackshaft plate for my bike that will be made to have a go cart bearing hub bolted on, I got one for $20 shipped on eBay. I think it was tigmaster who first used one of those hubs. Search go cart front wheel hub on eBay. If you're interested, I can make you a plate with custom length between bores and screw holes. You could have a metal shop do it for you, but you're a cheap fish turd so probably not. Agk sells a kit but it's over $100. You could go find a piece of steel and go at it with a hacksaw...but who wants to do that?

 

[wheelbender6]

Wow. A free Dyno is a huge score. I have one of the Arai drums on the front of my cruiser and it works well.

 

[atombikes]

I am casting a jackshaft plate for my bike that will be made to have a go cart bearing hub bolted on, I got one for $20 shipped on eBay. I think it was tigmaster who first used one of those hubs. Search go cart front wheel hub on eBay. If you're interested, I can make you a plate with custom length between bores and screw holes. You could have a metal shop do it for you, but you're a cheap fish turd so probably not. Agk sells a kit but it's over $100. You could go find a piece of steel and go at it with a hacksaw...but who wants to do that?

Yeah, I saw tigmaster's thread and I found that interesting. What would the cost of this plate you speak of be? I would have to add to that the cost of the front go kart hub, and it would have to be less than the BMI one. Everything is a trade off.

Wow. A free Dyno is a huge score. I have one of the Arai drums on the front of my cruiser and it works well.

Thanks for the input on the drum brake. Good to know it works.

 

[young grease monkey]

Give me your specs, if it will work for my bike then $20 plus shipping. I just don't want to make 2 mold patterns, that is the real work not melting and pouring. I don't like wood work much because I don't have fancy tools for it, just a circular saw and some hand tools. Drill press of course. No belt sander. It was a lot of work to get my engine mount pattern good enough, still refining it. How far apart do you want the drive/driven shafts? Just about anything will work for mine. And are you in a hurry, because it will take me a couple days to make the pattern and another 2 days to cast it then heat treatment. I do full T-6 on all structural parts.

 

[atombikes]

Oh, wait- you are doing a cast aluminum drivetrain plate? Is this normally how those are made? I thought a machine plate would work better in that application. Since I do alot of framebuilding, I'm kicking around an idea or two for a brazed unit. No rush BTW. Thanks for the offer and will keep in mind.

 

[atombikes]

Give me your specs, if it will work for my bike then $20 plus shipping. I just don't want to make 2 mold patterns, that is the real work not melting and pouring. I don't like wood work much because I don't have fancy tools for it, just a circular saw and some hand tools. Drill press of course. No belt sander. It was a lot of work to get my engine mount pattern good enough, still refining it. How far apart do you want the drive/driven shafts? Just about anything will work for mine. And are you in a hurry, because it will take me a couple days to make the pattern and another 2 days to cast it then heat treatment. I do full T-6 on all structural parts.

I had a thought about this. While perusing the web looking for transmission ideas, I noticed someone on ebay was selling the backplate off a comet torq-a-verter. It is cast aluminum like the one you propose. It appears to have a large boss cast into the driven end for the bearings. I assume this is where you want to use the go kart hub. Anyway, for drive/driven shaft distance, why don't you just cast yours using the dimension that comet used on the torq-a-verter? That seems to be a very common setup. That way, you might be able to sell a bunch of them after you tool up.

Anyway, regarding the torq-a-verter, I realize Comet went out of business, but why don't more people use torque converter type transmissions on thier bikes?

 

[scotto-]

I am casting a jackshaft plate for my bike that will be made to have a go cart bearing hub bolted on, I got one for $20 shipped on eBay. I think it was tigmaster who first used one of those hubs. Search go cart front wheel hub on eBay. If you're interested, I can make you a plate with custom length between bores and screw holes. You could have a metal shop do it for you, but you're a cheap fish turd so probably not. Agk sells a kit but it's over $100. You could go find a piece of steel and go at it with a hacksaw...but who wants to do that?

Use a hacksaw on 1/4"-3/8" steel? Just grab a cheap HF 4-1/2" angle grinder and fashion one up......that's what I do I'm a big fan of cvt's, they work great once you get them dialed in.

 

[young grease monkey]

hey scotto, what is the distance between shaft centers on a cvt like what you use? oh and many people don't like cvts because they are expensive and inefficient if not set up properly.

 

[Ibedayank]

with the right blade a skillsaw works rather well to cut steel

 

[young grease monkey]

Then you will need metal hole saws for the shafts, and carbide burs for the bolt slots. Easier and cheaper to buy.

 

[Dan]

"as I get older I am starting to believe I am a cheap b@stard."

LOL, hear ya!

Great thread. Any updates?

 

[atombikes]

Some of this cross-posted from the Wheel Master thread in Wheels/Suspension:
===========================

OK, So I just received the BikeWorldUSA 12ga heavy duty wheelset. pics included. Interesting, if you are looking for a totally matched set; this is not for you. The front wheel is from a company called Action Bikes; it has a steel rim that is made in Taiwan. It is better quality than the rear wheel. Both rims have a nominal width measurement of 1.5"

The rear wheel is a Wheel Master. It's rim is made in China, has a much poorer grind/finish on the weld, and the chrome also already appears to have more corrosion on it than the Action wheel. Ther rear rim also has a small dent in the sidewall of the rim. The rear has a HISTOP coaster hub. The rear wheel axle appears to have thread damage at one end; the nut will not thread on.

Both appear to have 12ga spokes.

Finally, the front rim has a much sharper "shoulder" between the sidewall and the part of the rim that has the spokes (not sure what that is called)? This is why I was saying they are not a 100% match. The rear rim is more rounded than the front, in other words.

I don't care as these rims will be painted (I think).

I also recieved the ARAI NEW drum brake hub. This sucker is HEAVY. Not sure if all drum brakes weigh this much, but I am used to much lighter bicycle components.

Have not tried to re-lace the new front hub yet with the 4-cross pattern, and that might be awhile (laying hardwood floors in my house...).

 

[atombikes]

A parts list update.

Just bought a Puch moped rear drum hub on ebay, $24 plus shipping, so total cost of $44. I will have to refurbish it. I was going to buy a hub adapter, thinking about a DIY whizzer sheave using a 20" rim and some Briggs and Stratton cable clips (per MSRFan) or was even considering a rag joint sprocket to simplify my first motorbike attempt, but spur of the moment decision caused me to take the plunge with this moped hub. I actually got the whole wheel for that price, but I don't suppose I will be using the rim or spokes.

 

[atombikes]

More parts update.

I bought 2 of these at (of all places) Walmart for $27 each. 26x2.35" Hutchinson Lowrider tires.

Here is one of them mounted to check fit. The front tire is a 26 x 2.0" gumwall for comparison. These Hutchinsons are meaty.

 

[atombikes]

engine mounts.

Taking a cue from this board (nods to glennbo), I bought (4) CB radio mounts for Mack trucks (on ebay) for $4.99 each plus shipping. I haven't yet decided on horizontal or vertical engine mount, but with this many mounts, I can do it either way and still have enough to mount the jackshaft.

Although I am a cheap b@st@rd, I AM willing to spend some dough on quality parts...

 

[atombikes]

Short parts update. Received the moped rear hub, pics below. This thing is wide. Looks like I will have to spread the rear dropouts about .75" on both sides to fit this hub. Also mounted the matching front tire; there's room for the tire, but I tried to fit the front fender and it looks like I will have to make clearance for the springer fork. Or go without a front fender?

I measured the spokes on this Puch moped rear wheel; it uses .105 spokes just like the BikeWorldUSA wheel does.

 

[young grease monkey]

darn, i wish i got a moped wheel! what size is the rim, 20"? i bought a wheelmaster for $50, now i need an adapter. i may have a friend machine one for me instead of forking out $80.

 

[atombikes]

darn, i wish i got a moped wheel! what size is the rim, 20"? i bought a wheelmaster for $50, now i need an adapter. i may have a friend machine one for me instead of forking out $80.

It is a 17" rim. I had previously read somewhere that you can fit a 20" tire on a moped rim, but they must be talking about a 16" rim? I tried to fit a 20" (406mm) BMX tire on it, no way; the rim is too large.

Anyway, to use this rim as-is would not work for me, it's too small, resulting is a really low frame/scrape crankset on ground, etc.

So, I am going to transfer the moped hub to my 26" rim, hopefully using the spokes from the 26" wheel.

After watching a youtube video about slipping hub adapters I decided I needed to find a different way to get power to the ground.

 

[atombikes]

Bought a tank for the top tube today. After spending countless hours looking at moped tanks, small motorcycle tanks, scheming ways to build my own, etc, I decided that since I am in essence building a new bike, I didn't want to spend $50 on something I was going to have to majorly recondition. Or spend countless hours fabricating one. So I settled on a 4 liter Whizzer clone tank bought off ebay for $53 shipped including gas cap, mounts, and fuel shutoff valve.

Here's the info (I cross posted this in the Whizzer area thinking those guys might be interested in this tank, or at least have an opinion):

=================================

I was looking for a tank for my 4 stroke HF build. Wanted something that looked like a Whizzer tank. Of course not willing to spend the money on a real Whizzer tank, nor did I feel authenticity was very important, since my bike is all new (and not a Whizzer).

Anyway, I knew that Wildfire sells a "Whizzer" tank, the red ones on ebay that have the stylized "W" on the side of the tank. The frame mounts on that tank appear to be similar to vintage Whizzer tanks, not the new edition Whizzer tank. I thought the price of those tanks seemed a little steep for what I wanted to do with it. But I don't want my tank riding high on the top tube.

On a lark I searched ebay for motorized bike tanks, and found this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140685534040?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's a 4 liter tank.

The pics aren't great so I won't truly know until I get it, but it looks identical to the Wildfire tank, except for the color. Price shipped including the tank cap, mounts and fuel shutoff valve is much less than the cost of the Wildfire tank.

The cap seems to be in the approx. correct Whizzer position and the profile looks right.

I paid $53 shipped.

The profile of this tank SHOULD be identical to the Wildfire tank shown here on Cannonball2's "Schwinn Point Beach Remake"