this is another strange option that i'm very seriously considering Sachs athena 80cc 48mm reed kit REEDS!
5hp and 47mph
- Thread starter foureasy
- Start date
stock puch stroke is 43mm and yours is 40mm, which means that you would either have to shave the bottom of the cylinder or stroke the crank. the wristpin is 12mm on the puch compared to your 10mm, i just tossed the old roller and reamed a bushing out to 12mm. you might be able to buy an intake, you will definitely have to buy a pipe and make it fit. physically mounting the cylinder is the easy part, just drill the stud holes out to 3/8". port matching the transfers is essential. and i'm probably forgetting something
i finally put my little crankenstein experiment on the dyno. i couldn't figure out an easy way to strap it on, so i had to start the bike in the street and ride up on it. getting the inertia wheel spinning smoked my clutch after a few runs and i had to limp it back to the shop. anyways, i got one solid pull and here it is. a little over 5hp at the wheel at 6800rpm. top speed of 47 which works out to almost 8800rpm, i probably could have wrung out 48 but i wasn't being too greedy. definitely not 50mph though. i think i may take a couple inches out of the pipe with another tiny dose of port work for the next expiriment.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q208/foureasy/1111092006a.jpg[/IM
some 48cc systems will do between 35 and 45 mph
where is the next death race going to be?, cause im going to the memphis international auto show this weekend
A shift kit while awesome - does not provide additional HP or torque, it simply changes the RPM range at which the existing power is applied at a particular speed. While you might see a marginal gain as you're back in the powerband as opposed to redline - it's exactly the same as if you had a 36t instead of a 44t stock rear sprocket, you still need more torque to go faster.
What a shift kit provides is greater acceleration, instead of compromising acceleration for top speed or vice versa - now you have proper gearing for both.
What a shift kit provides is greater acceleration, instead of compromising acceleration for top speed or vice versa - now you have proper gearing for both.
coolest thing ive seen in a long time. what dyno were you using? Just out of interest how low a horsepower can it measure accurately?
so i have to ask where can i find a high performance stock engine kit that i can start out with? ive built two motorbikes sofar for my brother and i that run great but im looking for speed so im selling mine and starting from scratch. what engine (if any) is a good start for speed?
well this engine is pretty good for speed,
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You need to get the reed valves that are right for the engine, i have them look at my signature video
Do share and put some clarity on this statement? He is not using a china jug for one.. This thread is not his finished product. So like he was just supposed to put this magic reed valve on and polish a rough designed china jug?You need to get the reed valves that are right for the engine, i have them look at my signature video
The china jug is primitive and archaic in its design. It cannot be corrected. Needs to be put back in the melting pot and re-casted with better scavenging porting and the works. It can be replaced
Put a you tubed dyno test up.. So like yur gunna say this motor of yours has more Horse power
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR4dqSf16xE It absolutely kewl that folks mod these china motors I just don't dig on confusion. lol.
Your carburetor is not a 24mm Mukini. The finished motor ran with that and was 70cc or darn close to it. Those reeds he ran breathed very good! I got to look at myself in person at all of these jugs and their prospective porting. The Morini and the Puch there is really no comparison.
To see a piston in the likes of Morini motor half the size of a China H.T. putting out up to 12hp. Say a lot.
Does your china run at 12,000 to 15,000 rpm? All day long!
Easy was around 11,000 rpm ''the finished motor I remember right''
I can see a balanced china motor crank and all getting about 4 hp max! But the scavenging ports and the way they are presented in the other jugs are far superior IMO. They can support the airflow that makes this power!
Does your motor have a centrifugal clutch? The hand caliper actuated run of the mill clutch will never hold grip with the power this ran. It ended up with a modified and balance centrifugal clutch with custom springs for a high stall.. At about 9hp
More here... http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=14204
well said GH! And to add: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOVY...DvjVQa1PpcFOMiBOqnEl-DrtsSCPVSY35G3yzzDql8po=
Sorry GH i thought this was posted on the other thread, yes it is a totally different Jug i was just stating that a perfect set of reed valves would bump up the torque quite a bit, please relax?Do share and put some clarity on this statement? He is not using a china jug for one.. This thread is not his finished product. So like he was just supposed to put this magic reed valve on and polish a rough designed china jug?
The china jug is primitive and archaic in its design. It cannot be corrected. Needs to be put back in the melting pot and re-casted with better scavenging porting and the works. It can be replaced
Put a you tubed dyno test up.. So like yur gunna say this motor of yours has more Horse power
It absolutely kewl that folks mod these china motors I just don't dig on confusion. lol.
Your carburetor is not a 24mm Mukini. The finished motor ran with that and was 70cc or darn close to it. Those reeds he ran breathed very good! I got to look at myself in person at all of these jugs and their prospective porting. The Morini and the Puch there is really no comparison.
To see a piston in the likes of Morini motor half the size of a China H.T. putting out up to 12hp. Say a lot.
Does your china run at 12,000 to 15,000 rpm? All day long!
Easy was around 11,000 rpm ''the finished motor I remember right''
I can see a balanced china motor crank and all getting about 4 hp max! But the scavenging ports and the way they are presented in the other jugs are far superior IMO. They can support the airflow that makes this power!
Does your motor have a centrifugal clutch? The hand caliper actuated run of the mill clutch will never hold grip with the power this ran. It ended up with a modified and balance centrifugal clutch with custom springs for a high stall.. At about 9hp
More here... http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=14204
I is always relaxed.hakuna matata Baby How many read peddles do you have? Are they heavy duty construction medal reeds?
How many read peddles do you have? Are they heavy duty construction medal reeds?
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2 petals, only that small cause they where to stick into the port, there a fiber glass compound i believe, they chose this materials so if they broke they wouldn't cause engine damage, but ive rung the sh*t out of my engine with the reeds on and they dont show any signs of fatigue, i could have bought carbon fiber petals but that would have cost me $200 when i got the whole thing for 65
Carbon fiber paper sheets can be bought in varying thicknesses for a reasonable price. Not too bad. https://www.google.com/search?q=car...or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=ff42559d799f52a1 They can be cut and trimmed to size. The Reed set Foureasy went to was a 4 petal carbon fiber. They flex good and allow more air flow.
I have thousands of miles on my 4 peddle carbon reed set Morini and they look brand new as day one! They are 4 pretty large reed peddles when I think about it. I peak at them every once is awhile. So far they have far surpassed my expectations. It would be a Ill thought of them coming apart for sure tho. After observing them over time I am not really all that worried.