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DIY Leaf SpringTruss Fork
- Thread starter Russell
- Start date
Gbrebes
Well-Known Member
Hey everybody, I made a fork similar to this a year ago, and I used part of a leaf spring from a golf cart. I found a group of 10 or so on eBay, and I have a bunch left over, so if anyone is interested, I could give some away. After having used just one single leaf, they are quite stiff, and I had to grind some of the spring material off to make it thinner. It still does not provide a lot of travel.
Gilbert
Gilbert
charliechaindrive.
New Member
I guess I'm not the only person who has thought of snomobile springs. A person could use the pair of them to make a replica of a indian cradle spring frame.
I can get a pair for $20 is what I paid for the last pair. It might take some time like a month or so. Let me know so I can make some calls.
charliechaindrive.
New Member
Alright, thanks curt I'll remember that.
Russell
Well-Known Member
How you setup your axle pivot arm can make a drastic change of : stiffness and axle travel
Fork @ C Spring rod @ B Axle @ A = max axle travel & minimum stiffness
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Russell
Well-Known Member
This setup was made to allow the axle to be either 1" fwd or rearward or 2" fwd or rearward of the original axle location. Only actual road test will determine which is best.
The adjustable length spring rods & the wide spring rod connection point allow this adjustment. The adj. length rod also allows for preloading the spring for more tension.
The adjustable length spring rods & the wide spring rod connection point allow this adjustment. The adj. length rod also allows for preloading the spring for more tension.
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Mr.B.
Well-Known Member
I built some of these a while back and because of wanting the Barn fresh look I bought a bundle of 3 rusty Model T Ford springs on EBay. I don’t recall the actual price but I do remember they were amazingly cheap shipped. Perhaps $20 - $25?
Trailing links are a just little smoother (imagine pulling a loaded wheelbarrow over a curb as opposed to pushing it) and the front end will dip when you brake. But to get decent trail the fork blades need to project forward a bit.
Leading links aren’t really bad though (IE; Harley used them until 1949) The front end will rise when you brake.
It took me 5 sets of links and 2 sets of front forks before I finally got mine right “-)
-Kirk
Trailing links are a just little smoother (imagine pulling a loaded wheelbarrow over a curb as opposed to pushing it) and the front end will dip when you brake. But to get decent trail the fork blades need to project forward a bit.
Leading links aren’t really bad though (IE; Harley used them until 1949) The front end will rise when you brake.
It took me 5 sets of links and 2 sets of front forks before I finally got mine right “-)
-Kirk
Russell
Well-Known Member
Mr. B,
Good post, I had not even considered the braking forces. It seems that the effects would SOMEWHAT cancel each other with the leading link setup. The trailing link & brake forces would be SOMEWHAT additive.
I had looked @ a lot of setups before starting. It seemed that 75% were trailing links. I have gone with reversable links and adjustable preload.
The experimentation is what makes this hobby interesting. Sometimes science, sometimes art! I had assumed that I may have to make additional links, however only actual testing will tell.
Thanks for the info!
Jim E.
Good post, I had not even considered the braking forces. It seems that the effects would SOMEWHAT cancel each other with the leading link setup. The trailing link & brake forces would be SOMEWHAT additive.
I had looked @ a lot of setups before starting. It seemed that 75% were trailing links. I have gone with reversable links and adjustable preload.
The experimentation is what makes this hobby interesting. Sometimes science, sometimes art! I had assumed that I may have to make additional links, however only actual testing will tell.
Thanks for the info!
Jim E.
charliechaindrive.
New Member
I just thought that a person could use some of the repop monark fork dropout thingers. That's what I'm using on mine
Russell
Well-Known Member
They may work super or they might just work ok, only trying others will tell.
Either way it's fun1
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Russell
Well-Known Member
It was almost 60 Deg. today so I decided to test out the the leaf spring. I was supprised how good it felt and handled. When I lockup the front brake the nose dips some but adding another leaf would make it too stiff.
I could add another leaf and space them so it would come into play at max load but not really worth the effort.
I could add another leaf and space them so it would come into play at max load but not really worth the effort.
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silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
The whole package looks great... leaf spring on a cool old bike with a sidecar. What could be better?
SB
SB
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
The whole package looks great... leaf spring on a cool old bike with a sidecar. What could be better?
SB
SB
Russell
Well-Known Member
Curtis fox,
I still ride that bike, including a few tri state runs. I was damm lucky with that setup as it is the best feeling suspension I've ever rode. Not to soft and not stiff.
I have used it on three other builds and it seems that the longer the wheel base the better the ride. You may have noticed that I cold ground the leaf to match the expected load. I took the time to build bushings into the moving points and have served me well and the wheel remained true.
Jim
Another build with a trailing axle
I still ride that bike, including a few tri state runs. I was damm lucky with that setup as it is the best feeling suspension I've ever rode. Not to soft and not stiff.
I have used it on three other builds and it seems that the longer the wheel base the better the ride. You may have noticed that I cold ground the leaf to match the expected load. I took the time to build bushings into the moving points and have served me well and the wheel remained true.
Jim
Another build with a trailing axle
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