Tom, I'll be intersted to see what you come up for the seat. My chopper had a "bananna style" seat and my skinny-hemmoroidal but couldn't take it. Had to go with some padded spring action. Had a sissy bar on my bike back in the 70's but decided that if I had to separate from it for some reason at high speed I didn't want it in the way. Don't know if I could bring myself to have one behind me at 20 MPH. I'll look forward to this endeavor. Dan
Winter Project, Nirve Switchblade
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To get the curved potion of the seat I had to bend a piece of 3/8" plywood. I cut it to shape, made the slices, kerfing, in the underside then soaked it in a solution of hot water and ammonia for a few hours. I used an old 26" rim and banded the wood to it. When dry it should retain most, if not all of the curvature to fit the center portion of the seat frame. The plywood is to give the upholstery something to attach to as well as giving it some foundation. More pictures when the wood is all in place.
Tom
Tom
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The bending process worked great. The plywood retained the shape and fits the frame like I wanted it to. Now all I need is some 3" foam rubber, find someone who can stitch up some black vinyl, add a few chrome buttons and the seat is done.
Tom
Tom
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Excellent! That was clever, Tom, and should make for a really comfy, good looking seat. Do you have access to a heavy duty sewing machine? One of the old green colored Viking sewing machines (made by Husqvarna) is perfect for what you're wanting to do. Model 21 if I remember right. Save some bucks and have the machine left over when you're done. That machine has a gear down mechanism that's like what four wheel drive is to a truck. I've punched through multiple layers of elk hide with no trouble making moccasins, mukluks, stuff like that. Canvas and vinyl is even easier. Just a thought.
SB
SB
Worked on the exhaust pipe today. 3/4" EMT buffs up pretty good with a little work.
I'm engineering on that fishtail tip. I think I know how I'm going to make it. The muffler goes on first then, well, I'll keep you informed.
Yes, I know, the real Captain America had two pipes. I only have one cylinder.
Tom
I'm engineering on that fishtail tip. I think I know how I'm going to make it. The muffler goes on first then, well, I'll keep you informed.
Yes, I know, the real Captain America had two pipes. I only have one cylinder.
Tom
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Tom, the exhaust pipe looks great and I have a question about it. I have never tried to shine up conduit but I assume you don't want to buff through the zinc coating. What did you use to buff it and will the zinc hold up well to the high temps? Thanks, Dan
I've had pretty good luck buffing the EMT using stainless steel buffing compound and a bench buffer. It holds that finish well but requires some maintenance to retain the chrome-like finish. The minimal exhaust heat has never effected the galvanized plating.
I like to use new conduit as opposed to old stuff with heavy oxidation. Also when you see bundles of it, like Home Depot has it, you'll see some pieces that are dull grey with a heavy marbling. I look for pipe that is uniform and has a little shine to it. That eliminates a lot of prep work before the buffing.
I swedge out the end where the joint will be and TIG weld it with very low heat and use stainless rod. The weld will polish up to match the surrounding pipe.
As for upkeep, I use NeverDull metal polish. It brings back the shine. Occasionally I'll remove the whole muffler/pipe assembly and run it across the bench buffing wheel again.
Tom
I like to use new conduit as opposed to old stuff with heavy oxidation. Also when you see bundles of it, like Home Depot has it, you'll see some pieces that are dull grey with a heavy marbling. I look for pipe that is uniform and has a little shine to it. That eliminates a lot of prep work before the buffing.
I swedge out the end where the joint will be and TIG weld it with very low heat and use stainless rod. The weld will polish up to match the surrounding pipe.
As for upkeep, I use NeverDull metal polish. It brings back the shine. Occasionally I'll remove the whole muffler/pipe assembly and run it across the bench buffing wheel again.
Tom
The seat and 'Sissy Bar' needed a little more support at the attach point at the rear drop-outs. I fabricated two shark fin looking extensions and welded them to the tops of the drop-outs. Now the rear of the seat can hold a lot of weight.
Who knows, Jack Nicholson might show up some day and need a ride.
Tom
Who knows, Jack Nicholson might show up some day and need a ride.
Tom
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Someone should tell those folks at Nirve that choppers don't have long beach cruiser style rear fenders. Everyone knows choppers have bobbed fenders. I cut 8" off the length of the fender, sectioned it and retaining that sweet scalloped end and made new fender braces from 1/4" stainless tubing. Nirve's braces looked like chromed clothes hanger wire.
Once complete and bolted on, the rear fender is solid and doesn't move. It should take any vibrations the 2 stroker can put out. More to come.
Tom
Once complete and bolted on, the rear fender is solid and doesn't move. It should take any vibrations the 2 stroker can put out. More to come.
Tom
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Dan,
That 1/4" stainless tubing is heavy wall and my vice wouldn't squish it; even using a cheater bar on the vice handle. I had to resort to bear skins and stone knives (hammer and anvil) to flatten the ends and the middle where it bolts to the fender.
Curt,
I used a tubing bender to get that 'u' bend in the middle. Stainless polishes up very nice and will stay that way.
LOL, my wife came out to the garage when I was cutting the rear fender. She saw what I was doing, squealed, shook her head and went back in the house. Women, they just don't understand.
Tom
That 1/4" stainless tubing is heavy wall and my vice wouldn't squish it; even using a cheater bar on the vice handle. I had to resort to bear skins and stone knives (hammer and anvil) to flatten the ends and the middle where it bolts to the fender.
Curt,
I used a tubing bender to get that 'u' bend in the middle. Stainless polishes up very nice and will stay that way.
LOL, my wife came out to the garage when I was cutting the rear fender. She saw what I was doing, squealed, shook her head and went back in the house. Women, they just don't understand.
Tom
Curt,
!/4" OD, but this is very heavy wall tubing. I've not actually measured it but the I.D is very small, something like 3/32". Beefy tubing and rigid. You'll need a bender and some muscle.
I got the rear sprocket on today, remounted the wheel and checked the chain clearance. I'll have to bend or cut the rear fender a little but everything else lines up perfectly using #41 chain. The 9/16" engine offset to the left worked out perfectly. Thanks, Norm (Venice MotorBikes) for that measurement.
It looks like I won't need a tensioner. The Switchblade has long horizontal dropouts that allow for lots of adjustment. Preliminary measurements looks like the pedal and engine drive chain will be close enough that I won't need to do anything special. I'm pleased.
Tom
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