Wow you'd be lucky if I even got he fenders pounded straight in one day, don't evn strt on paint. I got a 72 caddilac the "land yaght" as we call it, it got a 10 cylinder if my dads right about it
50s style first build..
- Thread starter leaded50
- Start date
My fenders was qiute okay from the start. Some dents by fastners.. nicked flat with hammer & dolly, and some wood to straighten them. Some bondo will it be,whatever before ended finish, but point is to use as less as possible. The job on rolling the center edge was done in 5min , and the curbing/sideways deformation by careful use of hands and knee...
If your caddy 72 have a 10 cyl...you found something special, not from cadillac, or youre calculated wrong, or you got a couple of spare spark plugs laying on the engine,;
he,he. (even if they had a V16 in the 30s..)They paint a car in some hours, a bike is much smaller.....As soon as its primed, be careful not to scratch it, just work quick over with sanding cloths, 120 - 280 or finer on end, and its finished for paint. If scallops/pinstripe is wanted, lay out bigger patterns taped before spraying that color, rest do at freehand. A 10feet stripe dont take more than a few seconds with right daggerbrush, and paint in right thickness.
Point is to just keep up, and not giving in, use your contacts & friends, if needed for help, and check out f.ex. this forum for ideas, and how to!
Dont be afraid to ask, worst answer to get,could be NO!
Pic of right tank compartment:
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Yea improbably wrong about the caddie but my dads got it chained to a oak tree for some reason. What kind of drve are you using? Belt or chain?
He,he..Either he is afraid it runs from him....or he had some trying to get the tree down....
I have a plan about chain, but it will depends on which engine im gonna use in the end. The chainsaw engine (on preparation now) just have a centrifugal clutch, and it seems to be easier to use a belt on it,with a extra tensioner wheel, and because the big ratio it would need, (big beltrim on rear wheel)
it wouldnt look so nice with a big sprocket on the rear wheel.....
But i dont belive our technical rules on legal use would allow this engine....only to testdrive it unlegally....
When deciding on an original vintage engine, it would be a chain. Also because theese engines have normal clutch/gear. and a more normal sized sprocket at rear is only needed.
Those are nice fenders! I've used Jonsered saws for many years. I had a couple 621's that ran forever and still have a big ole beast that I used to run a three foot bar for a chainsaw mill. Lots of power. I never gave much thought to using a chainsaw motor on a bike, but seems like a natural. Will you use a different exhaust? Will it use the pull start? Interesting...
SB
SB
Thanks again!
I checked up some engines ,vintage HMW´s, Sachs,etc. on german Epay, and also a great Villers lawn mover engine in UK, but trouble is international shipping, they dont see that international selling is giving higher prices than local?.....and also the shipping cost is real heay by the sellers... i need a trip down there later to find what i want direct i feel....to the right price...as i belive - ha,ha
The saw is great..function as h***,real strong! And this had got a major checkup before i got it. No,for sure,the ugly exhaust box is thrown away already! Gonna do some tweaking,and fabricate a new in "pipe" style. The pull start are i not sure of using yet. I did a lot of cutting away (the hole lower part of engine was made as one unit, gasoline, crank case and chain oil. (big ugly part) and the side cover with pull start was following this 3 units to be screwed on.........cutted away this mounts too.....but it got quite little now, and barely could be recognized of the original.
I will see if i´m making a new pull start cover and fastenings for it, or just go without.
Plans are jackshaft, or possible mock up a belt tranny /or gears, as a 2-stage gearbox, before going chain to the rear wheel. Sprocket on the chain is easier to find here, than to fabricate a slim big beltring fastened to the rim.
The pedalarms/crank are not of the wide style, and the engine fits barely between, but then straight in middle of frame, with no space for sideways movement to line up against the rear wheel. With a jackshaft/tranny, this problem is eliminated. As the engine is on pic, its clutch (centrifugal) is coming straight free of the rotating pedal, and when fanblades are cutted away on the other side, its spaced approx. 0.25 inch away from the left pedalarm.
Yeah, i know the possibility to bend, but one side pedal arm, i cant get the pedal shaft loose, and its gonna make trouble or possible ruin this old shaft to bend it right. And i dont want newer style crank, they dont look great!
Ratio?? dont know...I suppose im making a jackshaft/tranny, and put on some of the bigger rear chainsprocket from a 8-12 gear newer bike, and take a testride....if not anyone comes up with some preferences...
One factor by this build is that i haven't used lots of money on it, great to have fun, making a nice machine, without doing it expensive, and more fun finding solutions on own fabricating! New tires,tubes, grips and pedal rubber for the look,some new bearings, some bulbs for lightning, very cheap buy of battery and chainsaw, rest is reworked original items, and old stuff already laying around, or newly fabricated of steel/alu parts/sheet already in garage from earlier doings.Paint is leftover from my cars paintjob earlier this year, seat upholstry leftover from the car interior work, and the tools is there, to be used..... I think the bike as now, have a total of about $80-100 w/ bicyle cost .......but how many hours to do it..want be calculating! ;-)
I checked up some engines ,vintage HMW´s, Sachs,etc. on german Epay, and also a great Villers lawn mover engine in UK, but trouble is international shipping, they dont see that international selling is giving higher prices than local?.....and also the shipping cost is real heay by the sellers... i need a trip down there later to find what i want direct i feel....to the right price...as i belive - ha,ha
The saw is great..function as h***,real strong! And this had got a major checkup before i got it. No,for sure,the ugly exhaust box is thrown away already! Gonna do some tweaking,and fabricate a new in "pipe" style. The pull start are i not sure of using yet. I did a lot of cutting away (the hole lower part of engine was made as one unit, gasoline, crank case and chain oil. (big ugly part) and the side cover with pull start was following this 3 units to be screwed on.........cutted away this mounts too.....but it got quite little now, and barely could be recognized of the original.
I will see if i´m making a new pull start cover and fastenings for it, or just go without.
Plans are jackshaft, or possible mock up a belt tranny /or gears, as a 2-stage gearbox, before going chain to the rear wheel. Sprocket on the chain is easier to find here, than to fabricate a slim big beltring fastened to the rim.
The pedalarms/crank are not of the wide style, and the engine fits barely between, but then straight in middle of frame, with no space for sideways movement to line up against the rear wheel. With a jackshaft/tranny, this problem is eliminated. As the engine is on pic, its clutch (centrifugal) is coming straight free of the rotating pedal, and when fanblades are cutted away on the other side, its spaced approx. 0.25 inch away from the left pedalarm.
Yeah, i know the possibility to bend, but one side pedal arm, i cant get the pedal shaft loose, and its gonna make trouble or possible ruin this old shaft to bend it right. And i dont want newer style crank, they dont look great!
Ratio?? dont know...I suppose im making a jackshaft/tranny, and put on some of the bigger rear chainsprocket from a 8-12 gear newer bike, and take a testride....if not anyone comes up with some preferences...
One factor by this build is that i haven't used lots of money on it, great to have fun, making a nice machine, without doing it expensive, and more fun finding solutions on own fabricating! New tires,tubes, grips and pedal rubber for the look,some new bearings, some bulbs for lightning, very cheap buy of battery and chainsaw, rest is reworked original items, and old stuff already laying around, or newly fabricated of steel/alu parts/sheet already in garage from earlier doings.Paint is leftover from my cars paintjob earlier this year, seat upholstry leftover from the car interior work, and the tools is there, to be used..... I think the bike as now, have a total of about $80-100 w/ bicyle cost .......but how many hours to do it..want be calculating! ;-)
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Just for asking..... What type of drivetrain would be preferable, belt or chain, for this bike?
To do beltdrive, i thought of a sheave( beltpulley/rim ) from a washing maschine (approx. 12-14" across), or perhaps a handroller rim from a wheelchair, mostly a 20-24" (perhaps not the right partnames, but hopefully understandable) because both these are not so wide as a cycle rim, and frame dont need much changes then. From the CS engine to a jackshaft, and to rear wheel, trying to find a ratio about 15:1.... could this fit on my 26" cycle?
The other way is chain only from the jackshaft to rear wheel, and a 48-50 sprocket.Belt engine-jackshaft.
Or chains all the way. But still needs a jackshaft to get the drive from engine to be straight.
To do beltdrive, i thought of a sheave( beltpulley/rim ) from a washing maschine (approx. 12-14" across), or perhaps a handroller rim from a wheelchair, mostly a 20-24" (perhaps not the right partnames, but hopefully understandable) because both these are not so wide as a cycle rim, and frame dont need much changes then. From the CS engine to a jackshaft, and to rear wheel, trying to find a ratio about 15:1.... could this fit on my 26" cycle?
The other way is chain only from the jackshaft to rear wheel, and a 48-50 sprocket.Belt engine-jackshaft.
Or chains all the way. But still needs a jackshaft to get the drive from engine to be straight.
leaded50,
I am afraid that I can't help you with the pulley sizes but just wanted to agree with you on the international shipping. I live 2 blocks from the pacific ocean and 20 minutes from the U.S. border so fortunately I'm able to go down to my mail drop of in the U.S. to pick up parts that I order. Mail drop off stores are a big business along the border in America.
To have U.P.S. bring it through customs can cost as much as you payed for the part but often at least 50% or half of what you payed for the part. I pay $13 a year and $2.50 to $6.00 depending on size and weight of the parcel.
I have had arguments with people in the U.S. and all over the world about shipping. We are paying the cost to have it shipped. All they need to do is pack it well and fill out a form at the post office or U.P.S. Even when I offer to pay them to do it and offer to pay more than they are asking for the part they still say no.
Who knows why.
Steve.
I am afraid that I can't help you with the pulley sizes but just wanted to agree with you on the international shipping. I live 2 blocks from the pacific ocean and 20 minutes from the U.S. border so fortunately I'm able to go down to my mail drop of in the U.S. to pick up parts that I order. Mail drop off stores are a big business along the border in America.
To have U.P.S. bring it through customs can cost as much as you payed for the part but often at least 50% or half of what you payed for the part. I pay $13 a year and $2.50 to $6.00 depending on size and weight of the parcel.
I have had arguments with people in the U.S. and all over the world about shipping. We are paying the cost to have it shipped. All they need to do is pack it well and fill out a form at the post office or U.P.S. Even when I offer to pay them to do it and offer to pay more than they are asking for the part they still say no.
Who knows why.
Steve.
Likewise. US isnt the biggest problem, its a big country and mostly someone are willing to ship outside country, or its pretty easy to find solutions.Even sometime its not possible.
Look out some parts in f.ex german Ebay, of 100 parts for sale, you´re lucky to find two who would sell international.
Worst example i have was asomeone who was only willing to ship to the adress listed by my paypal registrated adress, not by my Ebay shipping adress.Thats only possible to set to your living adress (by me,Norway) That guy could get the 2,5 times the price of what he sold it fore, by me, i even stated my bid to him ....but no..he wanted to neglect my account setup at Ebay.
In my vintage car interest i found many years ago possibility to get a US postal address setup by a shipping agent. Trouble is finding someone to trust......
Its some guys in the interest who has moved to live in US, and announce their services around in local (Norwegian) car magazines, but also some stories about their getting money to get a car, and havent delivered any, or a car in other shape than announced. Live to learn, sometimes you get burned, or you do it your self! Worst part is that when the payment are done, it takes 14d whatever min. to get the part in house by mail. If needed shipped by boat (bigger stuff) its approx. 7 weeks min.Also heard that Australia get even longer time to wait, and when buying f.ex. a car by some pictures, transfered perhaps some 10.000 $ to the other side of world, to someone you dont know are trustworthy, only perhaps mailed & talked to at phone, and awaiting some months to see what you have paid for, before you have possibility to argue, or making claims by law,if needed.......thats a interesting type of sport ! nervous breakdown.....
But i found that to be buying from members of a specialty interest forums, is nearly foolproof. They are normally helpful as can be about shipping, and reliable. Done a lot in car parts, and got no problem there!
Look out some parts in f.ex german Ebay, of 100 parts for sale, you´re lucky to find two who would sell international.
Worst example i have was asomeone who was only willing to ship to the adress listed by my paypal registrated adress, not by my Ebay shipping adress.Thats only possible to set to your living adress (by me,Norway) That guy could get the 2,5 times the price of what he sold it fore, by me, i even stated my bid to him ....but no..he wanted to neglect my account setup at Ebay.
In my vintage car interest i found many years ago possibility to get a US postal address setup by a shipping agent. Trouble is finding someone to trust......
Its some guys in the interest who has moved to live in US, and announce their services around in local (Norwegian) car magazines, but also some stories about their getting money to get a car, and havent delivered any, or a car in other shape than announced. Live to learn, sometimes you get burned, or you do it your self! Worst part is that when the payment are done, it takes 14d whatever min. to get the part in house by mail. If needed shipped by boat (bigger stuff) its approx. 7 weeks min.Also heard that Australia get even longer time to wait, and when buying f.ex. a car by some pictures, transfered perhaps some 10.000 $ to the other side of world, to someone you dont know are trustworthy, only perhaps mailed & talked to at phone, and awaiting some months to see what you have paid for, before you have possibility to argue, or making claims by law,if needed.......thats a interesting type of sport !
nervous breakdown.....But i found that to be buying from members of a specialty interest forums, is nearly foolproof. They are normally helpful as can be about shipping, and reliable. Done a lot in car parts, and got no problem there!
When you have the opportunity, post more photos of the engine/ jack shaft/ drive setup. Lots of older chainsaws around.... Jonsureds, Husqvarnas, Stihl... good ones. Compact, pull start, clutch included, reed valve carburetors and built to run full blast all day long. I'll be interested to see how your 53cc works out. That size would be legal most places in the USA, but I'm sure it has a lot more power and is better made than a 50CC China girl. I'm interested!
SB
SB
I´d take you on the word.......and maked a new posting about the motor modifications, and mounting together with driveline on the cycle-
Here it is: http://motorbicycling.com/f36/chainsaw-frame-build-35840.html#post350547
Here it is: http://motorbicycling.com/f36/chainsaw-frame-build-35840.html#post350547
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really nice work! never been such a big fan of the 50`s styling but i just might reconsider wow 53cc if you get the ratios right she will fly! my 35cc chainsaw bike pulls away from most mopeds so whit 53cc it should haul a##!
keep up the good work!
wow 53cc if you get the ratios right she will fly! my 35cc chainsaw bike pulls away from most mopeds so whit 53cc it should haul a##! keep up the good work!
oh and by the way. clean the clutch shoes with some alcohol or something like that. gives much better torque threw the clutch when the pads are clean.
Found flying could be my new hobby yes..... troublesome build to get the gear ratio right.....but if i could keep it under 40mph, i´ll be satisfied.
Cluthpads??? do ypu think someone is here ?..He,eh. i got the point, and needs to install new ones whatever!
..and harlyhermansson, perhaps we need to meet sometime and do a race.....he,he. ( i normally go summertrips with my car to Swedish Rocking partys & meeting.)
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Thank you, sir. It's a good thread... just been looking it over.I´d take you on the word.......and maked a new posting about the motor modifications, and mounting together with driveline on the cycle-
Here it is: http://motorbicycling.com/f36/chainsaw-frame-build-35840.html#post350547
SB
I´ll keep it up, when i find the stuff & parts that i feel i can use to progress it!
Picked up a 20 gear bike today for free (to new for normal parts for me) only to get the small sprockets at the chaintensioner. And some "year" old cycles are normally going to dumpster here, at least when something are wrecked... ;-) (good for me!)
Picked up a 20 gear
bike today for free (to new for normal parts for me) only to get the small sprockets at the chaintensioner. And some "year" old cycles are normally going to dumpster here, at least when something are wrecked... ;-) (good for me!)