Is it normal on the China 2 strokes for the throttle to be very sticky before they've been started? The throttle doesnt really wanna return, you have to push it back. It's like that even with the grip off the bike.
Sportsman project coming up...questions
- Thread starter brett7777
- Start date
How extreme is the bend on your carb cable? Looks like its pretty close to the top and bent, that will definitely cause the cable to bind and not move freely.
It was pretty sticky even before I put the carb on the bike, but the bend might've made it worse. The bend in the cable above the carb is unavoidable, as the carb sits just below the top bar & the underneath of the tank.
Not sure how to solve that issue.
Not sure how to solve that issue.
Throttle should just snap right back. It needs to move freely. The bend in the cable is unavoidable as the Worksman frames are a tight fit on the engine, but it the throttle/cable assembly doesn't work off the bike it won't work on the bike. They can be tricky. Lubing the cable and housing helps and a little grease between the throttle plastic tube and the handlebar helps, too.
Was a bit sticky outta the box, would snap back tho until was on the bike. I will look at my cable routing, (i think it could be better) lube cable, also I think I should maybe lube the carb slide itself?
The bend under the tank is pretty severe so if all else fails I think a different manifold may help?
Man the clutch lever is much harder to pull in than what Im used to!
The bend under the tank is pretty severe so if all else fails I think a different manifold may help?
Man the clutch lever is much harder to pull in than what Im used to!
Clutch a little hard to pull in? They do sell these which should help
http://www.buzzle.com/img/articleImages/346553-41016-21.jpg
http://www.buzzle.com/img/articleImages/346553-41016-21.jpg
Just kidding.... you can also oil your clutch cable (you can buy a little attachment that makes oiling cables a breeze - used them in MX) and you can also move the clutch arm so it is at a point that is easier to pull in
Pretty funny, Harry! There are better clutch levers available that have a bit more cable travel and a longer lever to make it easier to pull.
ok, so I disconnected the cables, lubed them, turned the throttle cable forwards, & re routed them. Now the throttle snaps back & the clutch is much lighter.
I still need a slant head so i move the front the of the motor up the frame a bit more, altho the motor is pretty solid in the meantime as I used metal shims in the mounts.
When I took the bike down the road, I had neighbours stopping their cars to look, one neighbour who is another Harley rider stopped his car & said "is that an old Indian?" so I think the bike is giving the desired effect.
I know Pat wont be entirely happy with my wiring sheath that runs up behind the front tube, but Im ok with it for the moment.
I still need a slant head so i move the front the of the motor up the frame a bit more, altho the motor is pretty solid in the meantime as I used metal shims in the mounts.
When I took the bike down the road, I had neighbours stopping their cars to look, one neighbour who is another Harley rider stopped his car & said "is that an old Indian?" so I think the bike is giving the desired effect.
I know Pat wont be entirely happy with my wiring sheath that runs up behind the front tube, but Im ok with it for the moment.
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couple of questions for when the half link arrives & I can hopefully get it set up to start the motor:
do the NT type carbs on these China 2 strokes need choke to start? if so, is the choke on, when the lever is up, or down?
what ratio of gas do u guys run in these?
anything else I should know in relation to first startup on these motors?
thanks
do the NT type carbs on these China 2 strokes need choke to start? if so, is the choke on, when the lever is up, or down?
what ratio of gas do u guys run in these?
anything else I should know in relation to first startup on these motors?
thanks
Sometimes when I can't get a decent compromise between pedal and motor side chain tensions I will swap out the rear pedal sprocket to a different size and start over. Like I said before, don't over tighten the chains and get perfect alignment on the motor side by adjusting the idler and the sprocket adapter left/right. Roll the bike around to check for any binding. As for starting find the BIGGEST hill in your area, push the bike all the way to the top. From there point it straight down and pedal like ****. Once you hit about 40 mph dump the clutch and hang on! That's how I start mine anyway........
I think I will go backwards at this point & disassemble the wiring, pull carb & exhaust off, pull motor out, & get the engine mounting sorted properly before I go any further with the chains. It's shimmed with semi circle metal shims (about 1mm thick) which has made it solid, but Im not happy with the misalignment at the front motor mount with the worksman frame downtube, so will ream out the front motor mount on an angle & hopefully get it to fit more snug on the frametube. I can see that will also mean some work on the clamping point too, otherwise the clamp will still be on an angle.
I would have preferred putting on a slant head to get the motor to move forward so the front mount will meet the frame tube at the right angle, but finding out that the piston may hit the angle head has put me off that idea somewhat...
Have asked some questions in other parts of the forum about angle heads but not much in the way of answers.
The other possible option would be to get my local engineer to weld on engine mounts for me.
I would have preferred putting on a slant head to get the motor to move forward so the front mount will meet the frame tube at the right angle, but finding out that the piston may hit the angle head has put me off that idea somewhat...
Have asked some questions in other parts of the forum about angle heads but not much in the way of answers.
The other possible option would be to get my local engineer to weld on engine mounts for me.
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I see Pirate cycles are selling these worksman bikes for the China 2 stroke, I'd be interested to know how they're getting a good solid & tidy engine mount on theirs.
If anyone knows, let me know (they have never answered any of my emails when I was trying to buy from them - I think because they dont ship International).
It says something on the ad about an Optional HMB Worksman 123 rear Motor Mount', dunno what that is...
Pirate Cycles Worksman
If anyone knows, let me know (they have never answered any of my emails when I was trying to buy from them - I think because they dont ship International).
It says something on the ad about an Optional HMB Worksman 123 rear Motor Mount', dunno what that is...
Pirate Cycles Worksman
Probably answering my own questions here but never mind, Im sure I wont be the only person who has or will have issues putting a China girl into a worksman frame so I think it's good to document it.
Looking at the motor it seems that reaming out the front mount will make the rear mount not clamp correctly, so that would fix one gap & create another.
The motor really wants to slide up at the front & down at the back. Then the clamps are at about the right angle. But you run out of headroom to be able to do this.
So that brings me back to thinking about swapping out to an angle head again.
If anyone has used a 48cc angle head on a 48cc straight head motor, let me know.
Apparently there can be issues with the piston hitting the head.
Here's a pic of the currect setup if anyone wants to offer suggestions.
Looking at the motor it seems that reaming out the front mount will make the rear mount not clamp correctly, so that would fix one gap & create another.
The motor really wants to slide up at the front & down at the back. Then the clamps are at about the right angle. But you run out of headroom to be able to do this.
So that brings me back to thinking about swapping out to an angle head again.
If anyone has used a 48cc angle head on a 48cc straight head motor, let me know.
Apparently there can be issues with the piston hitting the head.
Here's a pic of the currect setup if anyone wants to offer suggestions.
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When I was running the China Girl in my bike I had an angle head that I put the plug pointing out the right hand side of the bike for space reasons. It worked well as it didn't hinder performance and was really convenient.
I cut some more half circle metal shims, they're about 1mm thick. I used one each side of the clamp in the rear motor mount. I used 2 of them 'half height' placed in the lower half of the front mount clamp, front side only, to get that clamp looking more to my liking. It also feels more solid now.
I can see there might be a ready market for someone who could make up shims to help mount these motors to frames that dont quite line up with the motor mounts.
These would be hugely helpful on many bike builds using china girls where the frame tubes are not at the same angle as the motor mounts.
Im not quite sure what the best design would be, but if someone came up with something I think it would be well used, considering all the variation in bike frames.
I can see there might be a ready market for someone who could make up shims to help mount these motors to frames that dont quite line up with the motor mounts.
These would be hugely helpful on many bike builds using china girls where the frame tubes are not at the same angle as the motor mounts.
Im not quite sure what the best design would be, but if someone came up with something I think it would be well used, considering all the variation in bike frames.
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Ok, first test ride.
As soon at the Sportsman Flyer gas cap was screwed on, it started spurting out gas all over the bike. (thru the little venthole in the centre). This continued moreso each time I sat on the bike, or rode it, then I realized it was just seeping out all the time.
I took the cap off & removed the little bolt with gauze & plastic insert; this helped a bit, but the gas continues to seep out the top.
The tank is about half full.
So as I ride I have to keep wiping away gas from the cap. (ride with rag on shoulder).The satin acrylic lacquer didnt stand up to it too well so the tank will have to be repainted.
The oil tank has been moved off centre to the right, this gives about 4mm clearance from the chain. The chain has started hitting the oil tank & scraping the pinstripe & paint.
The China girl:
Makes a loud kind of metallic sound, some of the time, sounds a bit like metal against metal, most noticeable when you begin to take off from idle & let the clutch out with the engine under load. But happens sometimes also at idle or at about half revs while running, or also sometimes when revving while idling.
As soon at the Sportsman Flyer gas cap was screwed on, it started spurting out gas all over the bike. (thru the little venthole in the centre). This continued moreso each time I sat on the bike, or rode it, then I realized it was just seeping out all the time.
I took the cap off & removed the little bolt with gauze & plastic insert; this helped a bit, but the gas continues to seep out the top.
The tank is about half full.
So as I ride I have to keep wiping away gas from the cap. (ride with rag on shoulder).The satin acrylic lacquer didnt stand up to it too well so the tank will have to be repainted.
The oil tank has been moved off centre to the right, this gives about 4mm clearance from the chain. The chain has started hitting the oil tank & scraping the pinstripe & paint.
The China girl:
Makes a loud kind of metallic sound, some of the time, sounds a bit like metal against metal, most noticeable when you begin to take off from idle & let the clutch out with the engine under load. But happens sometimes also at idle or at about half revs while running, or also sometimes when revving while idling.