First Build Underway

[whitey]

I moved the engine to another position today. To be honest I don't like it that much, but it would save allot of trouble. Anyone care to share their opinion?

I am willing to modify the frame, infact I would prefer to get a loop that bends around the shape of the wheel. The only problem I had initially was that I couldn't find anyone with a pipe roller willing to do such a small job, thats why I have such a tight bend

with the engine in its current position I would be able to fit in a 28tooth cog for the pedals.

 

[silverbear]

I moved the engine to another position today. To be honest I don't like it that much, but it would save allot of trouble. Anyone care to share their opinion?

I am willing to modify the frame, infact I would prefer to get a loop that bends around the shape of the wheel. The only problem I had initially was that I couldn't find anyone with a pipe roller willing to do such a small job, thats why I have such a tight bend

with the engine in its current position I would be able to fit in a 28tooth cog for the pedals.

I'm guessing that once the space is filled in with the sprocket and everything is hooked up and running you would not only get used to the engine position, but it would look right since it is really in the only position it can be without modifying the frame. Being different, it would also make the build more 'yours'. Keep it simple unless you think it would bug you forevermore. You're the one the bike needs to please. We're just appreciative spectators. It will be a great bike either way.
SB

 

[Mr.B.]

If you are willing to mod the frame here’s what I’d recommend...

Cut the BB out and straighten the top rear wheel stays. This will add space for your chain ring. Then replace the area where the BB was with a straight tube and fill the gap between it and the BB.

This will actually more closely match a period frame and allow you to keep the hard to build loop you already have.

-Kirk

 

[itchybird]

That is exactly how I would approach this problem.

 

[whitey]

I really like what you have done Mr B! That would work perfectly for my application and the look I am trying to achieve

What about this idea?
would this type of mounting similar to the HD boardie be strong enough?

 

[Mr.B.]

Sure that would work, those big plates are similar to Lurker's first build.

 

[whitey]

Well today I got a little bit bored waiting for all my engine parts to arrive. So I decided to make a better looking pull start reel. I hope that the engine parts arrive next week. I am getting too restless waiting for stuff. I wish I could have had my bike done for this weekend as there is a big motorcycle exhibition. There is also a competition for who has the best motorcycle in there class. I am sure I would have fallen under a class of my own


The new reel is just some 6cm diameter pipe with a plate welded to it. Functions perfectly and the pull string doesn't get caught.

 

[cobrafreak]

Chuck it up to a drill and spin it to see if it is balanced. You don't want to put an imbalance on the motor.

 

[whitey]

yeah I should do that. Will I still need to do that if I turned down the tube on a lathe?

 

[cobrafreak]

You should anyway. The drill doesn't lie. It's also a great way to see if your pushrods are bent. Chuck up a push rod and you will know instantly if it has imperfections. If you lathe it I don't know what will happen because when you weld the welds get super hard. Much harder than the surrounding steel. It may break a bit.

 

[cobrafreak]

The defining factor to the engine mount is the Comet. You are the one that is running a Comet, right? You have to allow for room of the Jackshaft area.

 

[whitey]

yeah. The build has come to a stand still whilst I wait for the engine parts to arrive, especially the CVT. I sure wish I lived in America. I could have probably finished the build in a month. But there is so much mucking around trying to find people who will ship and then waiting for the items to arrive. Then there is the cost of shipping...

for example. I emailed the company selling the wide crank. They want me to pay $112 for the shipping. Time to look for another option

 

[sportscarpat]

Those wide pedal cranks are junk, and you won't have a sprocket choice. It comes with like a 44t or something huge like that. You need as small a sprocket as possible.

 

[cobrafreak]

Try these guys. I got mine here. It's a big one, like Pat says, not small.
3pc Wide Crank Pedal Kit [4S-CDS-3pcCRANK] - $29.99

 

[sportscarpat]

I thought I saw some guy around here making really cool custom pedal cranks. Any width or sprocket size, with these super short 4 1/2" crank arms. It was more than $30, though. You can probably weld the hub section from the sprocket from the crank John is talking about into a 28t sprocket.

 

[culvercityclassic]

This is my setup that was adapted from the wide crank set-up for 29.99. This sprocket was purchased from Danscomp, it’s a 25 tooth.

If you have to pedal you won't get anywhere fast...lol

Pat: can you master-mind a crank setup for us??? Please

 

[sportscarpat]

Pat: can you master-mind a crank setup for us??? Please

Can I? I already have. My double reduction drive set-up. You just don't use the motor side double sprocket set-up. Comes with sealed bearing bottom bracket, 28t sprocket or whatever you need, and tiny little forged steel crank arms. Oh, and the sprocket can adjust to whatever offset you need for your build.

 

[culvercityclassic]

I will take one please...

 

[cobrafreak]

Pats unit is nice, but know that if you use it you can't use the CVT. It's single speed.

 

[sportscarpat]

John,
My reduction system is a separate unit that presses onto the bottom bracket shaft. If you don't use the reduction unit then all that is left is a wide bottom bracket shaft assembly with forged steel pedal crank arms and adjustable offset pedal sprocket. I can even do custom widths and sprocket sizes. Just tell me tooth count and I.D. between pedal crank arms. What could be better?