Its not broken .... its just not possible to actually adjust these things correctly... not really into spending 10-20 hours on a carb adjustment when I can buy one that is plug and basic play...
I am sure it can be fine tuned... but its not a race bike ... I just want to basically ride it...
It took me two days to rebuild an entire 1600cc vw engine , carb took 2hrs , put the engine back in ... and 7,000 miles later .... ZERO problems.... guess they knew how to build things then..... especially build things that people could easily fix..... ( fast forward to USA and GM , they purposely built cars in the 1980's that you had to take to a shop , lol ..... 20 yrs later ... they are bankrupt and can't make a decent car ...lol )
Same problem with the same carb on the same engine, bro. But after reading what was out there I wanted to find out about both carbs for myself so I ordered an NT and set to work on the CNS - stands for central nervous system, by the way.
I too am from the old VW school, and this CNS acts weirder than any funky, ancient, used-up carb full of resin and rust that I ever ran across, and that's saying a lot since this is brand new gear. Usually at some point deliberate, calculated, organized experimentation produces sense out of funk. Once you've come out on top of it with an antique carb, with it's own weird physics going on and its own unique set, you never forget, you have sort of learned how to patiently learn.
That said, after block-sanding the intake tube and sealing up the carb-intake connection with RTV silicone; checking that the intake gasket is perfect; sealing other necessary gaskets with RTV; completely redoing all the wiring just to be sure; torquing the head; adjusting the float, the idle, the air/fuel and the needle through their complete ranges, out away from recommended settings and back again; employing every single tuning method that was posted and some that weren't; after all that and sacrificing a chicken, the best I've been able to do is to get a pretty strong, smooth mid- and hi-range, good strong hill climbing except for when it just doesn't want to do it at all (?!), good starting except for when it dies at a stop and then it starts very hard; and a low, steady idle. Except for when it just doesn't idle, but dies, which happens about 10% of the time I pull in the clutch. About 75% of the time it will climb a hill without coaxing the throttle and without any hint of bogging. Oh, and I can never let off the choke all the way or the engine will rev fit to fly apart. My choke plunger lives about 1/4in above its rest, cold or warm.
And I'm at my limit. That's the best I can do and that's all I care to do, until the NT carb comes, and then when I bolt it on and just go, I won't feel silly at all about posting a picture of my well-hammered CNS and talking trash about it.
