Another newbie first build.

[rockabilly dan]

yes its difficult with a coaster brake, i had same problem, too impatient, to get it absolutely right, and is a little out, so chain is tight and loose in places, not overly, but there is a difference, just have to set it at the tight spot, really needed to enlarge the hole in the sprocket properly, not by hand with a rat tail file, lol, oh well, you live and learn.

 

[SlowBalt]

Aquileus. This will save you allot of trouble. CB-110 Hub Adapter and Sprocket ( Worksman Edition)
I personally went threw 4 rear rims before I broke down and bought one.
If your serious bought riding your bike this is the best way I've found so far. The other thing it lock tight lock tight lock tight!

 

[Poopyboogin420]

The clutch still doing noises, with the engine idle and holding the brake lever, I remove the outer plate clutch, the noise continues. The weird thing is if I half turn the front sproket the noise totally disapears, and the engine sounds nice and clean, if I go further another half turn then it sounds again. Same thing while runing with the clutch engage, same sound with same sequence.

The big gear is very loose too. I believe needs some kind of adjustment.

There is a thread about the noise coming from the clutch cover, something about the chain hitting the cover on the inside, I am going to check it out on my MB today because I have a similar problem with excessive noise. The thread said to just find the marks left by the chain and use a dremel to file it down. IDK if this might help.

 

[aquileus]

Thanks guys for all your comments and advices. Today I went to work in the MB, about 5 miles from my house, I forgot to check the gas level before leaving my house, and guess what? YES! I ran out of gas, just 1/2 mile of a gas station, no big deal.

What was really anoying me was the clutch arm, aparently is too loose and jumps out of the hole every 15 seconds, but I grab the clutch hand lever and hold it a bit enough for keeping in his place.

The engine is doing lot better with the needle adjustment, top speed is doing ok, sometimes lose power going down hill at top speed, but reading here I'll find out what's this about.

I'm having so much fun with my MB, before I used to complain a bit if my wife forget to tell me that we need milk or something before I gets home, now I asked her if wed need something to find another excuse to ride the bike again.

 

[aquileus]

Forget to metion, so far the MB don't have vibrations problems, is very comftable, I'll take a pix of the mounts a post it next time.

 

[aquileus]

I was driving around my neigborhood, wondering why the bike is losing power at top speed, when the back tire start to rub the fender big time. This is what happend.

This happend on my way to work, the brakes were working fine, exept once, going downhill I was trying to reduce the speed, at one point the pedals went forward like five turns, then stop it, when I put my feet back on the pedals and try to brake everything worked normal. I thought maybe was brakes overheating, but no, coaster arm was not installed properlly. Aparently those few turns were the nut agaist the brake arm, and few chunks of the arm fall between the arm and the dust cap, the friction there eventually broke the dust cap and bearing.

Here is the front mount, I saw the idea here. The pixs was originally take it up side down and then rotated, that's why looks kind of funny.

 

[LS614]

Wow, I just realized that you are only running a coaster brake on that bike, that's VERY risky. You should get some other kind of brake to be safe. The most stopping power on a bike should come from the rear wheel normally 60% in the rear, 40% in the front. AT LEAST get a rim brake for your rear wheel, I'm sure we have some members on this forum who could sell you safer parts really cheap. Sorry it broke good luck fixing it! You seem like a very capable mechanic

 

[aquileus]

You're right LS614, the coaster brake itself is not enough, I was trying to keep this bike with his original look, but definitly needs another source of brake. Tomorrow afternoon will be running fine again.

 

[SlowBalt]

This is what I was talking bought. If the sprocket isn't perfectly centered the rear bearings will give out. If your chain goes slack than tight as you role the bike it will fail very quickly.

 

[aquileus]

This is what I was talking bought. If the sprocket isn't perfectly centered the rear bearings will give out. If your chain goes slack than tight as you role the bike it will fail very quickly.

LOL, you just say it and few hours later "klak". I saw the link you post it and definitly I have to get that.

 

[bairdco]

Umm.. if the clutch is in the piston and any motor gears for that matter should NOT be moving...
Are you saying your piston bounces around loose in the cylinder from the simple rocking motion of the bike moving by pedaling?

Naw, 'clinks, clanks and clunks' are little pieces of other moving parts hitting while the bike moves.
Not hard to find with the motor off and a friend.

i dunno what kinda magic engine you have, KC, but with the clutch pulled in, my piston moves, gas still flows, motor still runs, plug still sparks... i think it's called "idling."

if the bike's rolling, and the clutch is pulled in, my chain still moves, which would mean my gears are still spinning, too. all of them.

aquileus, glad you're figuring out the noises and everything. as far as a front brake, i run drum brakes up front. keeps it looking vintage.

 

[aquileus]

aquileus, glad you're figuring out the noises and everything. as far as a front brake, i run drum brakes up front. keeps it looking vintage.

Drum brakes! that's the way to go, I really enjoy those vintage style MBs.

 

[KCvale]

The piston actually would be moving in the engine because it is idling,

Hehehe, thought you meant with the motor off the piston was rattling around ;-}

Note you can get a little more coaster brake performance if you pull off the 18 tooth rear sprocket and put on a 19 or even a 20.
As a bonus it's easier to pedal up to speed put you'll need to do chain work ;-}

 

[bairdco]

aquileus, check out the new dynohub/drum brakes from Sturmey Archer. i've built a couple and they work pretty good. they need to break in a little before the shoes are seated, but i like them.

best price i've found is here:Hubs, Front Hubs @ eBikeStop.com - The online supplier for all your cycling needs...

 

[SlowBalt]

If you want drum brakes I would recommend husky rims. You can order them with 11 gage spokes and a Sturmey Archer front drum ,and the sprocket adapter is a direct fit.

 

[LS614]

I don't mean to be rude, and I don't know what kind of engine and clutch set up you are talking about, but I know on mine that when the clutch is not engaged, my crank and piston are NOT moving. The whole point of the clutch is to engage and disengage the engine. My bike does not even roll when the clutch is engaged because of the compression, when the clutch is disengaged, I can roll it. This is how bump starting works too. I'm just saying that there is absolutely NO reason for the piston, rod, and crank to be spinning when the clutch is not engaged.

 

[bairdco]

LS, you're right, with the engine not running, and the clutch lever pulled, the piston won't move, i was wrong. i was thinking about something else.

obviously, though, with the engine running, the piston has to be moving all the time, clutch engaged or disengaged, otherwise it wouldn't idle.

 

[LS614]

right I agree

 

[aquileus]

Thanks guys for your recommendations. Today I fixed the coaster arm, cuted some areas and bend the arm better, now sits right in his place. I think (and hope) will last a bit longer.

 

[aquileus]

After fixing the the rear hub, I was riding around the bike and fixing some other noises, most of this noises came from the rear fender rubbing the chain and hitting the rack.
I didn't have time to check the clutch yet (which I was getting used to hear this noise, but now I just hate it. I'm sure is something easy to fix. I'll take a look tomorrow.