1910 Pierce Clone - "Peace"

[LouieMCman]

The next pictures are of the major part of the frame almost complete enough to weld together. I couldn't stand to see it like this so I started working on the handle bars and seat mount. In the last picture the rear end section from a bicycle is mocked up but I only used the bottom part of it and remade the top out of stainless pipe. It's starting to look like something at this point and also when my imagination starts running wild with different ideas. The seat spring was a good idea but later shortened and then removed altogether because of seat height. Next on to the rear section of the frame......

 

[Bike Monster]

it looks good with the engine!

 

[deacon]

There should be a new category for you guys extreme bike building. great stuff

 

[Goldy]

Is that an eight HP Wisconsin? I had one of those given to me about 10 years ago, fitted new con rod bearing shells and replaced the piston rings...was going to save it for something special, but I wound up selling it VERY cheap to a neighbour who was in need of an engine for an old wood splitter...regretted it ever since. They are one heck of a strongly built motor and ought to last just about forever....plus you should be able to enter the tractor pulls at the local fairground with it .....gonna be cool!

 

[LouieMCman]

No, it's an model AB made from 1936-49 and is a 3 HP that weighs about 60 lbs. I thought it was larger until I ran the model and found it to be a 3 hp. But your right, it will pull stumps!

 

[Mr.B.]

Hi Louie,

I’ve really enjoyed your builds and this one in particular!

I don’t post much, but just can’t help to comment here as I’ve also been building a “retro” style motorcycle using a ‘39 Wisconsin model AK- Pretty much the same block as yours, different bore.

Been working on it for over 2 years, but really think I’ve have it on the road this spring, but I think you might know how that goes “-)

I used a precision method to weight my engine (holding it while standing on a bathroom scale) and came up with 55 lbs.

Anyway I don’t want to take away from your thread by going on about my project, but because of the above average weight I am very interested in what kind of performance you get with yours?

Speed?, Handling? Hill climbing?

I’m guessing you have already seen this info, but I scanned the attached HP chart from an old manual.

And here’s a link to help date your engine...

Un-Official Wisconsin Engine Site Homepage

Because yours appears to have a Stromberg carburetor I’m guessing it’s later in the model run, earlier engines would of used Marvel-Scheblers.

At any rate if you are interested I would be glad to scan the Stromberg carb pages from my manual and post them here? They have very basic adjustment instructions and a parts list.

Thanks!

-Kirk

 

[LouieMCman]

Thanks Kirk. I have the books on the Wisconsin AB. Stay tuned for the performance of the bike I'm almost finished documenting the build.

 

[LouieMCman]

OK, with the frame tacked together I started on the rear end section. I started with a bicycle section but only used the bottom pieces that hold the rear wheel so I wouldn't have to fab them up. The top section I again used small stainless steel pipe that I mashed and welded to the bottom parts. I forgot take any pictures at this point so these are after I started to fit the fenders, one of the toughest jobs in my opinion. I also finished up the seat post, but would soon modify it to lower the ride.

 

[LS614]

holy bjeezus! That is AWESOME!!! looking great. Keep going!

 

[LouieMCman]

With the bike going together it is at this point that I started having OTHER ideas. When I turned the fan shroud upside down in order to be able to SEE the cylinder better (hey it's got to LOOK good), it also removed all the cooling air off the top and sides of the cylinder, not good for a air cooled motor.

So I had the idea of routing the cooling air into a tube under the motor and into the front downtube and out the tube which I pointed at the front of the cylinder, instant cooling air any time the motor is running. Yuo can see the details in the pictures.

I also fabbed up the exhaust pipe from a Suzuki 50 and mounted underneath and made the gas line out of stainless tubing. And since the motor is going to be via pull rope, I made a tool box in the down post under the seat with a hinged door and locking knob.

 

[LS614]

Brilliant idea with the cooling! Looking cool! (no pun intended )

 

[MarkSumpter]

Brilliant idea with the cooling! Looking cool! (no pun intended )

Make sure to wear goggles because in the fall it will also make a great leaf shredder for any that get into the fan chamber LOL... should also be a great pebble thrower, I suggest to make sure you have a good screen cover over the intake bolted to the flywheel. My grandkids would put stuff in it just to see me freak out.

Really though it is an interesting idea Louie...

 

[LouieMCman]

My grand-kids haven't figured that out yet! LOL. Never thought about the intake, it's got a screen over the exhaust, not planning on running on much dirt and gravel anyway.

 

[LS614]

No, what he means is the air intake over the flywheel, which you have modified. It could be very dangerous to get debris in there if you break a fin of the flywheel. You should install some kind of safety screen. Hope that helps

 

[LouieMCman]

Ya, I know what he meant but all I did was rotate the fan shroud 180 decrees blowing the air under the motor instead of over it, the motor didn't have a screen on it initially. Trust me the dangerous thing is the pulley you wrap the rope around to start, it hangs out there pretty good and if that thing ever grabs your pant leg look out!

 

[MarkSumpter]

Louie I think screening the exhaust might be problematic in itself as it will allow debris to accumulate in the frame tube and that screening the intake on the shroud more the proper way to go but that is just my 2 shillings worth of ignorance...

Whatever you have an interesting sled in the works and you are right about the rope most of these youngsters don't understand what type of compression that oldster has when fresh and the horrors (pleasures if properly tuned LOL) of starting it...

My opinion is that I would find a spare flywheel and try to braze on some lugs and use a machined aluminum mesh like the old lawn boys used to have that would keep debris from inside the intake and still not obstruct the pull rope.

 

[LouieMCman]

With the fenders done I couldn't help but to make a small rack for the rear fender. I looked so bare without it. I also completed mounting the rear belt pulley which I had to space out about an inch from the wheel to line up with the drive pulley which is not on in this picture.
Next up is the running boards and controls.

 

[curtisfox]

When cutting the pully notch. You moved the tubing out what did you use for the spaceing to move it out? just flat plate?

 

[LouieMCman]

Yes, 1/4" flat bar. Should be plenty strong enough, the bottom one is welded and the top one has a 3/8" bolt holding it. Top one removable to get the belt on.

 

[MarkSumpter]

Hey Louie I came up with a kick start. pawls and bell for a Wisconsin of that same era last week from an auction if you are interested it was made for a washing machine but... It is the 2"x2" diamond pad with a coiled spring return. I will post pics as soon as it arrives... Might be the thing to set this piece off...