BlowByU Full Belt Drive Felt Magno Build
- Thread starter Terry Blow
- Start date
"Thank you Quenton
I was not going to use them but the guy that sold these to me told me I would need them. Can you tell me or even better show a picture of how these are assembled as in dose the screw go through the sheave the a washer over the spoke and then the nut or is it the other way round"
On the stock Whizzer sheeve the square nuts are on the belt side, and the washer and screw are installed from the other side. The sheeve will have small indentations to keep the washer level and each spoke fits between the hole and raised indentation.
If you use the brackets, note one has 3 un-threaded holes and the other has one of the holes with threads. The threaded hole is used with a short screw to place even pressure on the spokes sandwiched between the 2 brackets.
Have fun,
I was not going to use them but the guy that sold these to me told me I would need them. Can you tell me or even better show a picture of how these are assembled as in dose the screw go through the sheave the a washer over the spoke and then the nut or is it the other way round"
On the stock Whizzer sheeve the square nuts are on the belt side, and the washer and screw are installed from the other side. The sheeve will have small indentations to keep the washer level and each spoke fits between the hole and raised indentation.
If you use the brackets, note one has 3 un-threaded holes and the other has one of the holes with threads. The threaded hole is used with a short screw to place even pressure on the spokes sandwiched between the 2 brackets.
Have fun,
Nothing like a well thought out installation...
I agree Terry, thredless is cleaner and stronger than threaded. My Buddy's at the bike shop like to rib me with-
"If you want to see how strong a new part is, give it to Tommy to ride, if he cant break it, no one can"
This started before I got into mountain bikes with there there stronger frames and 1 1/8th" head tubes.
I had a nasty habit of snapping frames and forks on the old 1" head stock road bikes.
(the later 1 1/4" is even better) As i haven't snapped a fork or head set in some time.
The total belt drive is a great idea, but ive always been leery about mounting the drive sheath (or rag joints) to the spokes, I know its been done this way since the dawn of M/Bs so it must work, with the right pipe and muffler the bike is going to be very quiet.
My very first "kit" was a rack mounted, 2 stroke, 25 cc, top mount engine with a belt driven friction drive roller directly underneath the motor, the motor had a 2" V belt drive pulley and the roller had a 5" driven pulley driving a 1 1/2" drive roller, this engine and drive combo was good for approx. 20 mph.
I was lucky enough to have an electric motor shop near by that specialized in repairing fans and motors for the factory's in the area. They had a huge selection of belts, pulleys and sheaves so I was able to change the power characteristics of my set up.
Eventually, I blew up the 2 stroke 25cc and replaced it with a 4 stroke 49cc Honda that just ran and ran and ran...
Oh, it ate rear tires like cocktail weenies, but it ran very well.
The wide crank set looks great.
Are those motor plate ends cast aluminum with the center being steel?
Once you get the left/right alignment right I take it you'll be cutting new slots for fore and aft adjustments to maintain tension on the secondary belt with out an idler, beware the dreaded belt stretch and wet weather, mine used to scream like a banshee once it got wet.
What is the diameter of that sheath? it looks to be less than 24"s to me.
Cant wait for pics of the mock up... looking good!
BBB
I agree Terry, thredless is cleaner and stronger than threaded. My Buddy's at the bike shop like to rib me with-
"If you want to see how strong a new part is, give it to Tommy to ride, if he cant break it, no one can"
This started before I got into mountain bikes with there there stronger frames and 1 1/8th" head tubes.
I had a nasty habit of snapping frames and forks on the old 1" head stock road bikes.
(the later 1 1/4" is even better) As i haven't snapped a fork or head set in some time.
The total belt drive is a great idea, but ive always been leery about mounting the drive sheath (or rag joints) to the spokes, I know its been done this way since the dawn of M/Bs so it must work, with the right pipe and muffler the bike is going to be very quiet.
My very first "kit" was a rack mounted, 2 stroke, 25 cc, top mount engine with a belt driven friction drive roller directly underneath the motor, the motor had a 2" V belt drive pulley and the roller had a 5" driven pulley driving a 1 1/2" drive roller, this engine and drive combo was good for approx. 20 mph.
I was lucky enough to have an electric motor shop near by that specialized in repairing fans and motors for the factory's in the area. They had a huge selection of belts, pulleys and sheaves so I was able to change the power characteristics of my set up.
Eventually, I blew up the 2 stroke 25cc and replaced it with a 4 stroke 49cc Honda that just ran and ran and ran...
Oh, it ate rear tires like cocktail weenies, but it ran very well.
The wide crank set looks great.
Are those motor plate ends cast aluminum with the center being steel?
Once you get the left/right alignment right I take it you'll be cutting new slots for fore and aft adjustments to maintain tension on the secondary belt with out an idler, beware the dreaded belt stretch and wet weather, mine used to scream like a banshee once it got wet.
What is the diameter of that sheath? it looks to be less than 24"s to me.
Cant wait for pics of the mock up... looking good!
BBB
Well I have done some searching and I have found a guy that sells the adapters for the 1 1/8. SO after I have all my parts if I can manage it I am going to get the Monark. The one he sells is the reinforced version so I am really hoping I can pull it off. Now the mount I have done one already so I would have to say no it is not cast as it is working just fine I am thinking if it was cast it would have come apart by now. Last the rear sheave you have a good eye I measured it and it measures out at 15 inches.
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OK so here is the thing I have checked into the Monark front forks and the only way I can use Monark is if I covert to 1" threaded from 1 1/8 threadless. And that is the only way to do it that would mean getting a new steering head and more costs and I am not willing to go away from threadless so the Monark is out.
Terry I posted above but I think You missed it Felt makes a Monark type fork for 1 1/8 you can order it off their site 119.00 FELT ABRAHAM LINKAGE CRUISER FORK - Felt Bicycles
Cheers
Cheers
Hey chainmaker
Yes I did see that earlier but I think you said the quality is poor and if you did not say that then some one else did. Now I have looked at that front end but it just looks like it would make it hard to use the Magno's fender if you know better please let me know as I love the look of that front end.
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OK so I have checked into the Felt Abraham Linkage front end and they are out of stock so I will see if I can find one else where
Well I am having no luck sourcing out the FELT ABRAHAM LINKAGE CRUISER FORK so if any one knows where I can find one let me know
Hey chainmaker
Just to let you know I have found an Abraham Linkage front end BUT it will be the new 2011 the only thing is it won't be in stock for another 3 weeks and the Best news is they are only $90 bucks
Thank you again
Cheers
Terry
what kind of frame is that thought it was felt cruiser but inthe picture with the gas tnak it looks like a worksman still sounds great either way
Hi [email protected]
Well what you where looking at is the fuel tank built by Worksman and that is what tank I will be using on this build. If you want to know what the bike looks like there is a big picture of the Magno on the very first page right at the first post.
Cheers
Terry
KO Everyone
Parts are starting to come in to it is time for a picture BOMB, and I have taken the shaft and sheave to the machinist. I have to say this guy is a really great guy he is even going to drop off the shaft when he is done and that will be tomorrow talk about service. Also tomorrow I will be dropping off the wheels to have them built. so here are the pictures
This is a very cool item a Sturmey Archer Rear 70mm Drum Brake with provisions for a 7 speed free wheel
This picture and the one below are pictures of the Sturmey Archer hardware this is one reason I like this product so much nothing but quality, it even comes with the brake cable
Parts are starting to come in to it is time for a picture BOMB, and I have taken the shaft and sheave to the machinist. I have to say this guy is a really great guy he is even going to drop off the shaft when he is done and that will be tomorrow talk about service. Also tomorrow I will be dropping off the wheels to have them built. so here are the pictures
This is a very cool item a Sturmey Archer Rear 70mm Drum Brake with provisions for a 7 speed free wheel
This picture and the one below are pictures of the Sturmey Archer hardware this is one reason I like this product so much nothing but quality, it even comes with the brake cable
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Here are the pictures of the front drum and WOW it is huge it doesn't look it in the pics but the Sturmey Archer 90mm front drum brake is big
Again Sturmey Archer and the great hardware includes the brake cable
This is a pic of the brake levers I got for this rare bird.
These are old school and that is why I ordered them but they are way too small so I have ordered some mini bike brake levers.
LOL (RARE BIRD) LOL I just found the name for this build.
So the Magno's name is now Rare Bird.
Cool so I will have some pictures of Rare Bird before and after stripping it tomorrow.
Cheers
Terry
Again Sturmey Archer and the great hardware includes the brake cable
This is a pic of the brake levers I got for this rare bird. These are old school and that is why I ordered them but they are way too small so I have ordered some mini bike brake levers.
LOL (RARE BIRD) LOL I just found the name for this build.
So the Magno's name is now Rare Bird.
Cool so I will have some pictures of Rare Bird before and after stripping it tomorrow.
Cheers
Terry
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Here is a comparison picture the one on the left is the 90mm and the right one is the same size as the 70mm
Now you can see the size difference
Now you can see the size difference
Those should provide some stopping power, they look great.
What size Chain ring. rear cog/drive sprockets are you using?
BBB
What size Chain ring. rear cog/drive sprockets are you using?
BBB