I need help with my motorized bike because a newbie I am located on 35th ave and thunderbird. Does anybody live close?
Does anybody live in Phoenix, Arizona
- Thread starter 1st.timmer
- Start date
Welcome to the forum 1st.timmer ! We have some great guy's in that neck of the woods.
We are all really good at helping online too. There are many good tutorials here. You came to the right place.
We are all really good at helping online too. There are many good tutorials here. You came to the right place.
Hey dave31 I was woundering if you live in Phoenix. I am a newbie and I really need some help on my bike. This is my very 1st one. And I needed help on my clutch and starting it. I have a 49cc bfg motor it is a 2 stroke maybe we can meet up and you could give me a hand. I would greatly appreciate it.
I live right down the street from you. Unfortunately, I am chained to a desk.
What's going on? Maybe we can help you. I work on Thunderbird & Cave Creek & live at 35th Ave & Northern.
Let's get your bike running so we can go for a ride!
Are you sporting a 2-stroke or 4-stroke? When you mention clutch, is it the lever, cable, or actual mechanism that's giving you grief?
Describe the problem to us and we will try to help. After all, we're homeboys!
What's going on? Maybe we can help you. I work on Thunderbird & Cave Creek & live at 35th Ave & Northern.
Let's get your bike running so we can go for a ride!
Are you sporting a 2-stroke or 4-stroke? When you mention clutch, is it the lever, cable, or actual mechanism that's giving you grief?
Describe the problem to us and we will try to help. After all, we're homeboys!
As I mentioned in your e-mail reply, I am in Sunnyslope, 15th Ave and Hatcher Rd.
KC's Kruisers - Motorized Bicycles
All my contact info is there, and you can ask you local service questions on it's forums and even enter you bikes info so it is there for reference for anyone to help with your questions in your own topic.
Like anything, tough to help blind so pics and info really really help.
Chances are it is a simple text or phone call fix, if not, bring it by for a no charge estimate.
KC's Kruisers - Motorized Bicycles
All my contact info is there, and you can ask you local service questions on it's forums and even enter you bikes info so it is there for reference for anyone to help with your questions in your own topic.
Like anything, tough to help blind so pics and info really really help.
Chances are it is a simple text or phone call fix, if not, bring it by for a no charge estimate.
Hi KC, I called you a few weeks ago about a GT Bike. I'll be coming over to see you in a few weeks if you've got any parts for sale. I was in Sunnyslope today as a matter of fact. Couldn't stay long.
I am Having trouble with both the cable and the mechanism It seems like when I try to pull the clutch that the bar that swings in is to tough for the cable. And when I start it. It goes crazy on me that why I need someone close by to take it to so they can ride it and see whats wrong and help me with my clutch. I really wanna get riding.
Here is a good read on then clutch..
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-cable-clutch-adjusting-procedures-22726.html
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-cable-clutch-adjusting-procedures-22726.html
Take that small spring off and toss it you don't need it. All it is doing is adding resistance nobody ever uses that spring we all toss it . Also I see slack in that clutch cable too. You can keep the bigger spring at the jug it is fine.
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That is good link http://motorbicycling.com/f4/clutch-cable-clutch-adjusting-procedures-22726.html
I have details about what I am sure this problem is, the grease between the clutch plate on the right and the bearing shaft that goes to left drive sprocket dried out and froze tight.
The clutch plate moves out but the motor won't disengage.
Anyway the guy just called and headed over, I'll free it up for him ;-}
I have details about what I am sure this problem is, the grease between the clutch plate on the right and the bearing shaft that goes to left drive sprocket dried out and froze tight.
The clutch plate moves out but the motor won't disengage.
Anyway the guy just called and headed over, I'll free it up for him ;-}
KC, thanks for helping this guy out...way cool. My Broker's Grandson wants to build an mb, I gave him your number (Robert).
Well I'll be darned, the bearing was free.
The clutch cable itself was toast though. It was about frayed in half at the lever.
No biggie, I had one.
That is the 1st BFD motor I worked on, I like their clutch cover arm cable hold, much easier than Grubee's little brass screw on hold.
Have you guys that have built a few start noticing other things when you work on ones you didn't build?
His dad mounted the motor but the kid did the rest.
To his credit he didn't use a chain tensioner but the drive chain was way too loose. With horizontal dropouts a quick fix.
The throttle didn't feel right either and he mentioned it stuck wide open and the kill button didn't work. (scary 1st ride thought)
The carb barrel wasn't in right.
Again, no biggie, a quick fix and cable and idle adjustment.
The kill button just needed a wiring change too, but again no biggie.
The carb on it only had a screen as an air filter too.
Dandy for racing but not riding around in the desert on the road or not so I put a thin foam one in with it.
So then when it came time for me to test it I went to pedal it up and it was in highest gear (5th or 6th) and the motor chain slightly hits the tread nubs on the side of the dirt bike tire.
I tried to shift it to 1st but there was no shift lever, he cut the cable off at the derailer and took it off.
He'll need to fix that but a clever zip-zip placement got it to stay in 2nd gear, easy enough to pedal start now anyway.
The HD 410 chain will have to just rub those sidewall tread nubs off until he buys a new back tire. At least the chain is tight enough now and lined up very well. It didn't jump or anything on my short test run in the dark.
It took a little longer and way past my work hours especially after starting at 4:30 AM today but hey, a local kid that built his own first MB with his own money and it just needed a little help is all, I couldn't say no to the time his dad had to bring it by, and he'll be grinning from ear to ear tomorrow when it's light enough to ride ;-}
Michael (the kid)...
If it feels like the clutch is slipping a bit in the next few days open that right side big round clutch cover, remove that little holding screw and back that 'flower nut' I showed you off (counter clockwise) a 1/4 to a 1/3 of a turn and try it.
As long as the bike will roll free with the clutch locked in you are good.
Keep and eye on that drive chain and get a new back tire soon, one without sidewall nubs! hehehe
Good luck with it kid and ride safe ;-}
The clutch cable itself was toast though. It was about frayed in half at the lever.
No biggie, I had one.
That is the 1st BFD motor I worked on, I like their clutch cover arm cable hold, much easier than Grubee's little brass screw on hold.
Have you guys that have built a few start noticing other things when you work on ones you didn't build?
His dad mounted the motor but the kid did the rest.
To his credit he didn't use a chain tensioner but the drive chain was way too loose. With horizontal dropouts a quick fix.
The throttle didn't feel right either and he mentioned it stuck wide open and the kill button didn't work. (scary 1st ride thought)
The carb barrel wasn't in right.
Again, no biggie, a quick fix and cable and idle adjustment.
The kill button just needed a wiring change too, but again no biggie.
The carb on it only had a screen as an air filter too.
Dandy for racing but not riding around in the desert on the road or not so I put a thin foam one in with it.
So then when it came time for me to test it I went to pedal it up and it was in highest gear (5th or 6th) and the motor chain slightly hits the tread nubs on the side of the dirt bike tire.
I tried to shift it to 1st but there was no shift lever, he cut the cable off at the derailer and took it off.
He'll need to fix that but a clever zip-zip placement got it to stay in 2nd gear, easy enough to pedal start now anyway.
The HD 410 chain will have to just rub those sidewall tread nubs off until he buys a new back tire. At least the chain is tight enough now and lined up very well. It didn't jump or anything on my short test run in the dark.
It took a little longer and way past my work hours especially after starting at 4:30 AM today but hey, a local kid that built his own first MB with his own money and it just needed a little help is all, I couldn't say no to the time his dad had to bring it by, and he'll be grinning from ear to ear tomorrow when it's light enough to ride ;-}
Michael (the kid)...
If it feels like the clutch is slipping a bit in the next few days open that right side big round clutch cover, remove that little holding screw and back that 'flower nut' I showed you off (counter clockwise) a 1/4 to a 1/3 of a turn and try it.
As long as the bike will roll free with the clutch locked in you are good.
Keep and eye on that drive chain and get a new back tire soon, one without sidewall nubs! hehehe
Good luck with it kid and ride safe ;-}
Good job KC.
I wanted to say in a pinch I have use front face end cutting wire cutting type dykes to cut away ,trim the knobby type tires back for better chain or frame clearance with good success.
The horizontal kind like nail clippers work great . I want to say tho don't even bother with the diagonal ones tho not even worth the effort with those.
I wanted to say in a pinch I have use front face end cutting wire cutting type dykes to cut away ,trim the knobby type tires back for better chain or frame clearance with good success.
The horizontal kind like nail clippers work great . I want to say tho don't even bother with the diagonal ones tho not even worth the effort with those.
hey I live in mesa, az.. univercity and ellsworth
I have a lot of parts I would trade if somebody could help me get my motor started!!
I have a lot of parts I would trade if somebody could help me get my motor started!!