New guy, new bike, new engine kit

[Zack01GC]

Well, I just ordered my bike two days ago, and the motor kit is in the mail from a friend.

The bike: Huffy Cranbrook.
The engine: Unknown. Bought brand new off a friend, he's sending it to me. Said it was Chinese 80cc in-frame. Got it from gasbikeshop on eBay, or ZoomBicycles (same thing.)

I know neither of those items are optimal for this kind of project, but I am on a budget - so please don't insult me, I'm well aware that these are not the preferred items. I'm doing this partially for a school project, and partially for my transportation to and from campus (1.5 miles down hill to campus, 1.5 miles uphill to my apartment) weather permitting. I can use my 1984 BMW 633CSi or the bus if ("when" is a better term) if the weather is uncooperative.

Is there anything in particular I should watch for or pay attention to when doing the build? Is there any additional parts I will need that are not included in the kit to make this work? I read that I may need some sort of adapter/clamp/bracket for the front engine mount due to the large size of the downtube. Any information on this is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Zack

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

All the info you need to build a good solid MB is in this forum... (Just start looking around.)

Here's some good places to start looking...
Classic Instructions for Building and Repairing Motorized Bicycle Engine Kits - Bicycle Engine Kit Classic Posts at Motorized Bicycle Forum
Norm's 2 stroke repair center - Bicycle Motor at Motorized Bicycle Forum
Mounting Techniques - Bicycle Motor at Motorized Bicycle Forum

My best advice for you is to keep it simple for your first build!!!

 

[Zack01GC]

Thank you much.

 

[jrbrown3]

Good luck! I'm starting the build of a old '63 Schwinn Typhoon... Please report back how it worked out for you.

- J.R.

 

[Zack01GC]

I will let you all know how it goes. I'm still reasearching the Cranbrook coaster brake fixes/modifications... as well as the engine mounting problems. Want to get them figured out before the bike and motor get here so I know what to do when I get started. It all should be here any day!

 

[silverbear]

Zack,
Pay particular attention to the fender mounts, especially the front one. Lots of posts here on that subject. It may seem like a minor thing, but isn't.
SB

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I will let you all know how it goes. I'm still reasearching the Cranbrook coaster brake fixes/modifications... as well as the engine mounting problems. Want to get them figured out before the bike and motor get here so I know what to do when I get started. It all should be here any day!

YouTube - Bearing cap mod

 

[David D.]

Hi there, I am also new here ... just built my first bike , a jaguar with a 2 stroke chinese engine kit... got about a hundred miles on it now and no real problems...made my front mount out of a muffler camp and two u bolts... it seems fine... other thing i did was take the shifter off completely and zip tied my derailer into low gear...makes for easy starting and eliminates a cable and imo multible gears are not needed ... i hardly ever peddle anymore

 

[Zack01GC]

Thanks guys, all of this information is appreciated.

I have heard of the horror stories involved with the front fender mounts.

Al - thanks for the link. Appreciated.

 

[kattay]

Please post some pictures when you're done. I'm about to begin my first project and would like to see how yours turns out

 

[WdSjw]

I just finished a cranbrook 66cc build. I ended up drilling through the frame. The engine is quite stable, but it was a pain drilling through the frame. The metal is extremely tough. You would be suprised how flimsy the back wheel is. I replaced mine with a mountain bike rim/freewheel and added rimbrakes. I got those items for $5 dollars at a flea market included with an old defunct mountain bike. I permanently removed all the fenders and chain guard. I didn't want to hassle with them anymore. I replaced the drive chain with regular bike chain to prevent frame and tire chain rub. It's nice to have freewheel and a super easy gear to pedal in. You can install a back rim brake if you install the brake on the inside of the wheel well rather than the outside. Handbrakes are nice anyway. I'd just say take your time and enjoy the build. I tried to rush a few things and it just made the build take more time, though I am really happy with how my cranbrook build turned out. The bike has an extremely solid feel to it and it's a really smooth ride now :-/

 

[Zack01GC]

I am trying to refrain from drilling through the frame. I will probably fabricate either the hockey puck, flat stock, or C-channel/muffler clamp style front mount to avoid drilling the frame. Chain guards might have to stay on the bike, it's going to get cold soon here in PA and the jeans are going to go on soon enough (not too big on rolling up pantlegs or how my parents did it in the 60's/70's... rubber bands around the bell bottoms).

The bike was originally for my transportation to and from my college campus, since I live 1.5 miles away. Recently, I've turned it into my Engineering research and design project for an upper level core class, so I must take my time... as I have to document the entire build.

 

[WdSjw]

That's good that you aren't drilling through the frame, it's really difficult to get the hole started and even then it's kind of drastic. It works though. I have to roll my pant legs if I wear pants, but I have never really had chain guards on my bikes anyway, I think they are a nuisance. Nice pants still get messed up anyway, even if I use a chain guard, so what's the point? Chain guards do help though. My bike is so much fun to ride. I am sure you will enjoy yours when you are finished

 

[scott hopkins]

toss the cheep bolts and nuts

 

[Zack01GC]

Problem 1 with the build:

I can't get the f*&^%(& nut off the rear wheel of the Cranbrook that holds the brake arm and dust cap on. I have the wheel off, actually could loosen the opposite side (with the sprocket), wound up taking the hole axle out, brake arm and nut still intact.

Any tips on how to get the nut off that holds the brake arm on? It seems to me the schmuck at the factory used a damn impact gun to crank that sucker on. Looks like i'm going to need a vise and an impact gun to get the f-er off. I have neither.

 

[silverbear]

Problem 1 with the build:

I can't get the f*&^%(& nut off the rear wheel of the Cranbrook that holds the brake arm and dust cap on. I have the wheel off, actually could loosen the opposite side (with the sprocket), wound up taking the hole axle out, brake arm and nut still intact.

Any tips on how to get the nut off that holds the brake arm on? It seems to me the schmuck at the factory used a damn impact gun to crank that sucker on. Looks like i'm going to need a vise and an impact gun to get the f-er off. I have neither.

It is supposed to be tight. Take a section of pipe and slip it over the end of the brake arm and now you have leverage. Use the wrench and give force in opposite directions. It will come off.
SB

 

[Zack01GC]

Thank you sir, I will have to give that a try.

 

[Zack01GC]

Well... I think I have most of it done, everything except the wheel and sprocket, (still looking for a pipe and a 17mm deep well socket), so once I get the rear wheel figured out and built, I think I'll be done.

 

[silverbear]

Just a foot or two of pipe will be enough. Your hardware store will have cut off sections in a bin which they will sell. And a 17mm wrench is all you need.
SB

 

[Zack01GC]

To do list before first start:

-Break nut loose on rear axle
-Install rear sprocket
-Install drive chain
-Zip tie or trim throttle and clutch cables
-Drill hole in handle bars for throttle killswitch housing
-Make sure everything is nice and tight
-Add gas (16:1, 20:1, or 24:1?)