Got a Hub Issue Now??

[FreeWheeler]

It's always something, get the thing running good and something else pops up. Here's the problem:
When I back pedal to apply the coaster brake, it grabs but then the pedals turn forward. I'm ready to tear the hub apart again. I took the back wheel off, but what is the likely problem?

I packed it full with grease the first time. Is it just adjusted wrong?

 

[r00t4rd3d]

Take your hub apart then put all the parts back on the axle how you had it and take a picture. Then we can see if you got anything wrong. Like brake shoes on backwards or something.

These learned me some :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utwJl5Yb3t8&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnVcaZbShsM&feature=related

 

[FreeWheeler]

I tried adjusting it, but no luck still spins the pedals. I know the shoes are on right because it would only go together one way. Something is worn out and I just have to get it apart again. The hub is a Huffy and I'm clueless on where to get parts that I know will work.

Those videos will help, thanks.



On top of that, I have to replace the bolts and washers on the chain tensioner because they only go so tight before the washer makes a clicking sound. I moved the tensioner when I took the wheel off.

 

[scotto-]

I tried adjusting it, but no luck still spins the pedals. I know the shoes are on right because it would only go together one way. Something is worn out and I just have to get it apart again. The hub is a Huffy and I'm clueless on where to get parts that I know will work.



On top of that, I have to replace the bolts and washers on the chain tensioner because they only go so tight before the washer makes a clicking sound. I moved the tensioner when I took the wheel off.

That clicking sound is because the bolt is stripped. Get some hardened bolts to replace them with and check the nuts as well.

 

[bairdco]

if your hub has a spring in it, make sure it's not broken. i think if the spring is broken, the "clutch" inside of it won't reset so it locks it up, which would turn the sprocket.

 

[FreeWheeler]

Thanks everyone. I remember way back I applied the brakes and it stuck for a second and never acted up again until yesterday when I braked real hard once. I will post some pictures so some other hapless coaster newb might benefit.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

I think the brake arm (& or) the lug that it's bolted to has stripped.

 

[FreeWheeler]

I think the brake arm (& or) the lug that it's bolted to has stripped.

Thanks Venice!! Here's the brake arm. It's toast. I probably would have torn the hub down, found nothing and thought the arm was just chewed up a bit.

 

[KCvale]

Thanks Venice!! Here's the brake arm. It's toast. I probably would have torn the hub down, found nothing and thought the arm was just chewed up a bit.

That would sure do it.

Just a tip, on a Huffy the rear pedal sprocket is just a 3 cog gear mount to the hub with simple retaining ring, usually 18 tooth, that comes off easy.

A 19 or 20 tooth will greatly increase both your pedal to start and braking ability for like $5.

You will need to mess with your pedal chain size, but if you run a tensioner on your drive side chain this is perfect time to dump that, get your drive chain set with no tensioner, then mess with your pedal chain with a bit larger rear sprocket and use a tensioner there if need be.

Just another take it or leave it tip from someone that has done it is all.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Thanks Venice!! Here's the brake arm. It's toast. I probably would have torn the hub down, found nothing and thought the arm was just chewed up a bit.

The lug that the brake arm bolts on to is probably stripped too!! (Where the axle threads through it.)

 

[FreeWheeler]

The lug that the brake arm bolts on to is probably stripped too!! (Where the axle threads through it.)

You got me worried now. I had the hub apart tonight and everything looked good. "Where the axle threads through it"? You mean like it is not connected to the axle because it is stripped loose from the axle? That kind of stripped?

See the photo, the red line points to that lug.

 

[bairdco]

that's called the "brake cone." just check the threads on it, and where the arm fits on it and make sure it's not damaged.

 

[ruppster]

I hope I don't stir up a hornet nest by saying this but...Junk the cheap junk Chinese parts! The same thing happened to me on a "heavy duty" set of wheels I bought. The one thing I've learned in my short time of doing this hobbie is china made stuff is made from inferior metal, It's soft and/or brittle and the machine work has sloppy tolerances. Other than the motors I'm banning china made products on my bikes as much as possible. It's not worth getting hurt over and it's frustrating to have to constantly repair a cheaply made product. Just my opinion, no offense to anyone I hope.

 

[FreeWheeler]

I put it back together and tested it lightly in the garage and it seems OK. I'm thinking the clutch might have been in wrong after I worked it. Braking hard revealed the problem. I'll test it again before I put the motor chain back and get new tensioner bolts.

As for Chinese junk, that it is, but it was also cragslist junk which was even cheaper.

 

[bairdco]

i totally agree with ruppster. i stay away from chinese bike parts as much as possible.

chinese hubs are junk. you'll find post after post on this forum about the problems people have with them. cracked races, broken spoke flanges, seized bearings, bent and broken axles, and your stripped arm.

the best coaster brake hub on the market today is made by Velosteel in the Czech Republic. it's an almost exact copy of the old Fichtel/Sachs Komet Super hub from the 50's. the only problem is Jim doesn't make an adapter for them.

the Shimano CB-E110 is a good 2nd choice, though. it's cheap, readily available, and is a pretty darn good hub.

 

[FreeWheeler]

I took it apart again, just to be sure. I cleaned it all up and gave it another inspection and repacked the bearings which still look really good. Everything still looks good except the stripped arm. I went on ebay and there are lots of arms for antiques, but the cone nut hole is what matters and nothing matches.

I called the bike shop and they only sell hub+arm, but at least the guy knew what a brake arm was and said they might be able to come up with something. If that doesnt work, there is the Pirate cycles arm but it says only for Micargi.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

What brand of hub is it?? I might have a spare brake arm fer ya.

 

[FreeWheeler]

I might need your help Venice, thanks. The hub is China Junk brand sold under the Huffy name. The stripped out area on the arm is supposed to match up with the cone which is rectangular with radius on the ends.

I found a real bike shop and will check with them tomorrow. I'm told they have lots of old parts and new.

When I had it apart last, I tried to figure how it stripped. It was slightly bent(not my bending) and didnt lay perfectly flat, so it wasnt grabbing the whole cone. Kinda like putting a wrench on a nut cockeyed. When I jammed on the brake, it slipped and the cone rounded out the hole.

 

[FreeWheeler]

I went to the awesome local bike shop and they dug up a Shimano D-Type hub brake arm. It fit like a glove, so if this happens to anyone else with Huffy aka China Junk, a Shimano D-Type coaster brake hub arm fits. The uncanny part is that the Shimano is bent perfectly to clear the sprocket bolts. When I compared my bends, they were exactly the same angle and in the same spots.

 

[KCvale]

Sweet find FreeWheel.
I love my local bike shop too, half of the guys in there are into motorized bikes since I first showed up with one early this year.