My petcock broke....

Pablo

Pablo

Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor
No THAT sucks. Just started dribbling fuel and banego, lets go. Thank goodness I was in the garage and had a container handy...could have lost $50 of fuel!

I notice DAX sells the type I had for $6.99......anyone have other options? Got a spare?

Yeah always something! The metal looks like garbage - I'll post pics later.
 
jasonh said:
$50 worth of fuel? You mean like 50 cents, right? :)
Click to expand...

That was a joke son! rotfl

Probably close to $2. Pics snapped....just got a big shipment. Let me deal with that first.

Will trade something for quick shipment of a petcock.
 
Here are some quick shots: :-||

(Anyone got a spare??)
 

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try the hardware store for a 1/8 brass ball valve or what ever you can find that will fit. One problem is I think the threads are metric on the tank so you will need to check if your close to a cycle shop they should have a tank valve.
J&P cycles have a online catalog and list fuel valves check them out.
I has my Dax kit fuel valve do the same thing I was removing the fuel line and got a little rough but I had an extra fuel valve that is brass. I layed the bike on its side and got the dutchman out of the tank installed the new valve and was back in business quick hardly lost a drop of the high dollar perfume we all refer to as fuel.rotfl
Norman
 
I have been looking for an excuse to buy one of those plastic inline cutoffs, I think yall just gave it to me.

then again probably not.
 
my 1/8 pipe metric tap is stamped 1/8-27npt.
I broke out my american set and the 1/8 pipe tap is the same so looks like the 1/8 pipe tap thread will work so a guy should be able to find a nice valve at the hardware store 1/8 brass ball valve with a hose barb at least it sound good.
 
I guess we can call it a concurrent discovery - I just got back from my local True value with a very nice 1/8" pipe thread ball valve and am reading your post!! I brought a hunk of the old one to try it - yep fit nice. The final assembly with brass hose barb is a bit longer....but I must say it actually flows better and is extremely heavy duty.
 
i read that your pet cock broke and spit soda all over the computer rotfl. actually i had mine break on my 2 stroke and went to a john deere dealer and they had one that worked just fine. alot nicer then ones with the kits and stuff
 
Careful.;)

Yeah I use very nicely machined ball valve. Feels very heavy duty. I love it.

Here's the weird part. This new ball valve, actually works as a valve. Turn it on, fuel flows mightily, filter fills up with fuel, etc. Turn it off, fuel stops. So you ask what the heck is so wrong with that. Well nothing, but the old valve just about peed like a 97 yo guy with prostate problems....just sorta dribbled and got worse with life....must of had a leak and an obstruction!rotfl
 
Here's what I have now:
 

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My engine is now running rich.

Is this even plausible? My plug looks rich, engine sounds and runs rich…. At mid and fuel throttle. I had the thing running nearly PERFECT before.

The fuel flow through this thing like a fire hose! I guess I never thought much about how bad the old valve was (until it snapped) - BTW I never used the POS intank screen and my plastic "VW" clear fuel filter has caught a good amount of crud. Now here's the weird part, the filter would only be 1/2 full of fuel at best when the bike was new and got worse with time. Recently the filter just would have just a tiny amount of fuel in it - enough to run really great with zero problems. Change the valve and it runs rich....I don't understand why. Maybe the fuel flow was metered by the valve not the carb :p that just sounds whacked…..

Input?
 
since it's a gravity-fed carb, it's not unlikely to think that you have more fuel flowing with the ability to flow more quickly, thus exerting more force on the carb i.e. higher fuel pressure.
 
Yeah maybe more fuel blows by the float needle valve. It ran OK last even just had some funky rich throttle stuff going on. I will adjust the needle tonight.
 
The gravity of the fuel would not make a difference unless the float valve wasn't sealing, and then only if your fuel flow was about 5% of what it is now. The float valve shuts off fuel flow when the chamber is full.

Maybe you have a float leak?
 
No float leak - but my fuel flow was very minimal before.

Lemme ask this - when the stock fuel petcock is removed and dry - when open it should have very little flow impediment and: Can you see light through it?
 
Thanks....I'm gonna mess with the dead fuel soaked one this weekend when I'm playing with fire......
 
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