My petcock broke....

No THAT sucks. Just started dribbling fuel and banego, lets go. Thank goodness I was in the garage and had a container handy...could have lost $50 of fuel!
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I've had that happen twice recently - it's deliberate Chinese quality fade. That's why you shouldn't use their bolts & studs to hold the engine onto the frame or the tray. It's annoying but I can salvage old ones off my several discarded HT kits. Last week the rear left peg on the petrol tank started leaking with a steady drip. Not worth trying to fix even though th tank was painted to match the bike. It would be nice to be able to discard all the chinese bits from those kits except perhaps the Honda copy motors. The kill switches have been faded too. As have the 2-stroke carby cylinders and the brass screw bolts on the HTs are now galv steel probably with air bubbles in the steel. Hope they don't start fadng their rear sprockets.
 
Twice? Get a good valve. Not only does the stock one break, it impedes flow.
 
Twice? Get a good valve. Not only does the stock one break, it impedes flow.
The early ones are not too bad. Haven't found any stock ones that fit the thread on the tanks. The later ones can impede flow but I usually drill the slag out of them before using them. Where can I get a stock one that fits or rather who makes stock ones that fit? Given the tiny amount of fuel that's needed it would be hard to impede to that amount. Sometimes there's gunge in the tank that could clog the little filter inside the tank but I discard those and use an in-line filter.
The little tear dtop HT tanks are such pretty tanks that it's a shame they aren't better made.
 
I plan on selling HD brass ball valves in the USA if I can get the price around $10-12. I paid $15 for my current valve. They fit perfectly and are bullet proof.

I never used the in-tank filter as I said, and I too would have thought it impossible to impede flow enough to effect running, but when I went to the new valve my engine ran much richer. Again, it ran OK before and it ran OK after the new valve but it was rich enough that I had to go with the leanest notch. Now it runs better than ever.
 
I plan on selling HD brass ball valves in the USA if I can get the price around $10-12. I paid $15 for my current valve. They fit perfectly and are bullet proof.

I never used the in-tank filter as I said, and I too would have thought it impossible to impede flow enough to effect running, but when I went to the new valve my engine ran much richer. Again, it ran OK before and it ran OK after the new valve but it was rich enough that I had to go with the leanest notch. Now it runs better than ever.

Love the new valve but having the same problem here, im gonna try moving the clip, but with only one notch left to go I may have to go smaller than a #65 main jet.
 
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