I've been running brand new engines with sabre at 50:1 even during brak in 4 so far that show no sighn of quitting
Breaking-in a new engine
- Thread starter meowy84
- Start date
This is a very contested subject. I lost one of the ring groove pins that keep the rings from rotating. I did the lots o oil real slow break in the first time. I did get 2500 miles out of it. I tore it apart to fix it and the piston showed tons of blowby. Heavy black streaking down the majority of the outside of the piston. I just rebuilt the top end and this time I used opti-2 at 50:1. I warmed it up for about 5 minutes then rode it hard for about 20 miles. Going from wide open to about half speed then wide open again. the wide open parts for 2-3 minutes at a time. I let it slow to a idle twice during the 20 miles (that suppose to let any metals leave the ring grooves) I do have a shift kit now so my wide open is not over reved. I have about 150 miles on the rebuild now. I removed the exhaust and looked in the port while I rolled the motor over. The piston is very clean, I have great compression, the bike is faster then ever. These cylinders have such a fine cross hone on them you only have about the first 20-25 miles to get the rings broken in. Once the cross hone is worn off there's nothing left to break the rings in against. I vote in favor of breaking it in hard and quick. Let it warm up well at least 5 minutes then go for it. The old breakin methods were for motors with the old cross hones that were heavily grooved and took a while to wear smooth. Just my opinion thou.
I had similar experiience to Junster and favor "hard and quick" breakin. I learned this from ice racing and motocross buddies and noticed easy breakin was resulting in weaker motors. Only difference is I use 50:1 Walmart oil from the start instead of synthetic.
I run everything here that is two stroke on 40:1 mix.
The "instructions" can be thrown away as soon as you get them out of the box. They usually state 16:1 or 20:1. That is waaaay too much oil, and detrimental to the engine.
Break them in at 24 or 25:1 and go to 32 to 50:1 after.
The "instructions" can be thrown away as soon as you get them out of the box. They usually state 16:1 or 20:1. That is waaaay too much oil, and detrimental to the engine.
Break them in at 24 or 25:1 and go to 32 to 50:1 after.
I agree with Joe, anything 32:1 or higher is better. My pet peeve is the 16:1 guys that leave a black trail up and down my driveway. Not to mention Al Gore spinning in his grave. (he IS dead isn't he?)
Nope, just a little fatter and a little grayer.
how about speeds, arent you supposed to keep it at low speeds at first? If so how can you run it wide open for so long?
When ya first break the motor in run it at 16:1 and open it up from time to time....vary you speed....high low medium....medium low high...blah blah blah....one gallon of mix usually does the trick....that's what I did...then went to 32:1....then 40:1....am about to try a 50:1 synthetic mix...my bike has almost 1000 miles on it without any signs of wear....runs like a bat out of h*ll....hope this helps...
Laters,
Salty
so don't keep it under 20 or anything like that, just don't run it too hard the whole time.
Am i getting that right?
Also is there any oil would be better for break in than others? I hear good things about opti 2.
Am i getting that right?
Also is there any oil would be better for break in than others? I hear good things about opti 2.
I use Amsoil interceptor 32:1 but people say great things about opti 2.
Also i was looking on the opti 2 website and it seems like depending on the container you buy the recommend ratio is different.
34 oz bottle mixes 25 gallons: 94:1
1.8 oz packet mixes 1 gallon : 71:1
3.2 ox packet mixes 2.5 gallons: 100:1
So is there a different product in each container? What do some of you guys mix when using this oil, id like to try it out.
Also i was looking on the opti 2 website and it seems like depending on the container you buy the recommend ratio is different.
34 oz bottle mixes 25 gallons: 94:1
1.8 oz packet mixes 1 gallon : 71:1
3.2 ox packet mixes 2.5 gallons: 100:1
So is there a different product in each container? What do some of you guys mix when using this oil, id like to try it out.
Also, vary your engine speed and load, don't over rev and don't lug the engine.
It's not a good idea to make long down hill runs with the throttle closed, but especialy not during break in.
24:1 for break in. 32 to 50:1 after.
16:1 is a horrible urban legend that won't go away because they keep sending the 1950's instruction sheet from China.
It's not a good idea to make long down hill runs with the throttle closed, but especialy not during break in.
24:1 for break in. 32 to 50:1 after.
16:1 is a horrible urban legend that won't go away because they keep sending the 1950's instruction sheet from China.
I am beginning to doubt we need an special break in ratio either. 32 or 50:1 would likely be fine for all running.
How many two stroke chain saws, weed eaters ect. do any of us own that required a special oil heavy mix for break in?
How many two stroke chain saws, weed eaters ect. do any of us own that required a special oil heavy mix for break in?
You might read this guys page. He has a lot of real experience.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
16:1 is very old info before we even had 2 cycle oils.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
16:1 is very old info before we even had 2 cycle oils.
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I just read that link, & I totally agree!!!
When I break in my new bikes, I use 24:1 & just ride it normaly!!
When riding normaly (new or used engine), I always warm up the engine & 'cruise' for a few blocks BEFORE going to WOT! (yes, you can run a new engine @ WOT!)
I don't modify the exaust pipes or re-jet the carbs until the engine is fully broken in. I believe that the high back pressure in the stock pipe helps keep the revs down & keeps extra oil in the cylinder!
Also, I broke in my Harley that way... (a little WOT after warming it up), It's got MAD POWER!!!
That's my 2 cents!
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Joe,
Having owned and operated a lawn and landscaping business for 27 years I can outright tell you the engines for our bikes are entirely different animals.....break-in period is crucial.....I understand you've a WHOLE lot of experience in this....but I guarantee you I've had more weedeaters,chain saws,blowers,edgers,augers and etcetera than you have had bike engines.....I always considered it to be safe to * Break-In * an engine......my two cents....but now days mebbe a nickel ?.... LOL...
.....run the ****e*s HARD but briefly....time and time again using a thick mix for one gallon......after that....sky's the limit.......Thanks,
Salty
P.S......in 27 years I've probably had .....3000 small two stroke engines....
...I have an original * Echo* weedeater from 1978....runs fine too.....
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Joe,
Having owned and operated a lawn and landscaping business for 27 years I can outright tell you the engines for our bikes are entirely different animals.....break-in period is crucial.....I understand you've a WHOLE lot of experience in this....but I guarantee you I've had more weedeaters,chain saws,blowers,edgers,augers and etcetera than you have had bike engines.....I always considered it to be safe to * Break-In * an engine......my two cents....but now days mebbe a nickel ?.... LOL...
Thanks,
Salty
P.S......in 27 years I've probably had .....3000 small two stroke engines....
Salty- I won't dis-qualify your "qualifications" with my "qualifications", but I have been tuning and running two strokes and four strokes for about 40 years now.. I had a couple of small engines (one 2T one 4T) that I got just to run and tinker with when I was 10-11. Had mini bikes and engines of all kinds ever since. I have re-built and repaired motorcycle/car/aircraft/mowers/weed eaters/outboards engines, transmissions, ect.ect. ect.ect. ad nauseum.
I just tuned/worked on a 1976 Mitsubishi weed eater with a remote float bowl type carb no mower shop would touch. I have worked on everything from .010 cubic inch model engines to 1000 cubic inch diesels and all in between. I have lost count (not that I was actually counting)
I think this makes my point, no?
I KNOW these engines are different (very similar to most DKW derived piston ported two strokes of the 30's- the 60's.)
Maybe the "modern" two strokes don't need break in because people throw them away the first spring when the old gas won't light them off, and they never see enough service to know if they would last or not.
I was just wondering out loud.