Moutain bike - clutch/brake lever??

i purchased the duel brake levers but not with the throttle. i have to say the duel break levers are worth their weight in gold. What happens when you want to stop fast in an emergancy. with separate brake levers you are going to grab one or the other in panic thus flying over the handlebars or skidding to a crash. These take time to adjust so both brakes engage at the same time but when adjusted right one handle and both breaks engage and the stopping power is awesome. I highly recommend them
 
Yeah I think I'll avoid the throttle built in one and just go with a dual pull and use the supplied throttle.

On the dual pull - have any of you heard of problems with bottom mount mountain bike brakes?
 
Dual brake lever

Hi guys, I would like to tell you something I've learned from an old farmer, and that is "don't NEVER put all yer eggs in one basket!". Up till now I've not heard of an accident, but figure this, you break that lever, or injure that hand and you now have exactly NO brakes.

I don't like the geometry of Mountain Bikes, in part because I have no interest in looking straight down at the front tire, when I should be driving 3-4 carlenghts (actually bike lenghts) in front of me.

When I did build a couple of mountain bikes I used the rotary clutch handle locking the clutch on left, front brake right lever, rear brake left lever. I still have some of those rotating clutch handles in stock! Then I changed the bars for "touring" or "cruiser" type, and the saddle to "Touring" now the MTB is pretty close to a hybrid type bike.

I will never build a bike, relying on only one lever to stop it. I have actually at times, considered putting a caliper, or other rim pull brake, on coaster bikes just as an extra saftey measure.
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Mike
 

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I have to definitely agree with Mike on this topic.
The what-if's of having anything happen to that single brake lever leave to much to my over active imagination.

If you mount your clutch lever over your front brake lever, you can quickly become accustomed to using your front brake as you pull in your clutch. I instinctively pull my front brake with my first finger or two as my clutch lever gets pulled in...the rear brake I seem to use a lot less but it is still there. If the brakes are adjusted properly you don't need much travel on the lever to get them grabbing on.
With having a MTB with front suspension you can hammer on that front brake pretty quick and hard and still not do any endo's...even at 30-35 mp/h.

Personally, I would never put my trust for both brakes onto one lever...just to many bad things run thru my mind when even thinking about it...scary, lol.
 
Bike conversion

Can a 15-speed street bike be converted into a motorized bike and what do you have to modify or is it better to buy a coaster type and go from there?
 
TheLoneRanger said:
Can a 15-speed street bike be converted into a motorized bike and what do you have to modify or is it better to buy a coaster type and go from there?
Click to expand...

LR -Yes it can be. My kit on the way is for my Diamond Back MB. My buddy has done his (same kit). I'm fine with the geometry, some folks think it's too upright. Your choice.
 
Mtb to Motorbicycle

Hi Lone Ranger, I am an experianced motor-bicycle builder. Did you notice that the pic of Old No.6 that I posted here in this thread started out its life as a Ladies 10 speed mountain Bike?

Furthermore, I used the rotary clutch on it, along with the 2 handbrakes which were the origional topic.

Functionally there is very little difference wheather bike is 10, 12, 15, 18, 21 or more speeds. In some cases it becomes necessary to remove "people sprocket? derailer mechanism, if it will hit the engine, elsewise raise the engine.

It's all rather simple, really it is.

BTW do feel free to ask away, I am aware that all learning starts somewhere.

Mike
 
Re: Mtb to Motorbicycle

MotorbikeMike said:
Hi Lone Ranger, I am an experianced motor-bicycle builder. Did you notice that the pic of Old No.6 that I posted here in this thread started out its life as a Ladies 10 speed mountain Bike?

Furthermore, I used the rotary clutch on it, along with the 2 handbrakes which were the origional topic.

Functionally there is very little difference wheather bike is 10, 12, 15, 18, 21 or more speeds. In some cases it becomes necessary to remove "people sprocket? derailer mechanism, if it will hit the engine, elsewise raise the engine.

It's all rather simple, really it is.

BTW do feel free to ask away, I am aware that all learning starts somewhere.

Mike
Click to expand...

Your No. 6 looks good. How much gas can the tank hold and what is the miles per tank? How noisy is this engine compared with the Whizzer?

Jackie
 
Mike,

Can you explain the rotary clutch mechanism? Or maybe post a pic of it?

As far as the dual pull lever system is concerned...nothing wrong with it. As long as you are checking your equipment before AND after each ride, you should never be left with no brakes.

Dan
 
I'll be I mount my clutch lever in the spot you've got brake or just the opposite of your set up so I can use the clutch hold in button without thinking about it. I can pull in the clutch and apply brakes or leave the clutch alone and apply only the brake and I too believe in separate brakes levers one for front and one for the back. I found out don't use levers for the old pinch or side calliper style brakes on the new side mounts the geometry will make them work very poorly..
Norman
 
I've got my clutch mounted in a pretty crappy position right now, I'd really be interested in a throttle-like clutch. Check out where my clutch is in these pics of my bike: Bike Pics
You can see the clutch best in the 3rd picture.
I think it looks kind of cool, but I'd really love to be able to use both brakes and clutch. Also, the way it is set up now it is hard to use the clutch-lock with one hand! Especially one handed while I'm looking for cars and slowing down at a 4-way in the city.
 
The more I see and hear about the front and rear hand brake the more I like rear coaster brakes and front hand brake set on the throttle side. I almost never pedal my bike anyway. The gears would be wasted on me.
 
Re: Mtb to Motorbicycle

MotorbikeMike said:
Hi Lone Ranger, I am an experianced motor-bicycle builder. Did you notice that the pic of Old No.6 that I posted here in this thread started out its life as a Ladies 10 speed mountain Bike?

Furthermore, I used the rotary clutch on it, along with the 2 handbrakes which were the origional topic.

Functionally there is very little difference wheather bike is 10, 12, 15, 18, 21 or more speeds. In some cases it becomes necessary to remove "people sprocket? derailer mechanism, if it will hit the engine, elsewise raise the engine.

It's all rather simple, really it is.

BTW do feel free to ask away, I am aware that all learning starts somewhere.

Mike
Click to expand...

I see the rotary clutch there, it's a bit unusual. I understand the reason for it but to me a lot of these handlebars look cramped with all the controls and shifters I see crammed on them. No escape from it in some cases though I guess..

I think if I could run a single front ring, with a 7 speed rear, conventional clutch on the left- and both brakes running through a dual lever (seen them lots in my time, they are not the best in the world but work pretty well) that would be about as clean a setup as I could arrive at, and would make me happy..

At present I'm single speeded with coaster and NO front brake. (NOT RECCOMMENDED!)
 
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