The name does'nt ring a bell tho its possable as I have a bike an sidecar also, I'll advise you to do what I never (but wish I did) buy / borrow / download the MSVA regs, I still havent read them but when mine was getting tested he said mopeds only need a dip ! I had fitted a hi / lo so they both had to work and conform.
WOW ! I thought I was on my own...
- Thread starter dougy
- Start date
The name does'nt ring a bell tho its possable as I have a bike an sidecar also, I'll advise you to do what I never (but wish I did) buy / borrow / download the MSVA regs, I still havent read them but when mine was getting tested he said mopeds only need a dip ! I had fitted a hi / lo so they both had to work and conform.
Ludwig II
Well-Known Member
John Hosker's an agricultural mechanic, drives a flash Audi he sticks oily lumps of metal in the back seat. Races a minimoto outfit. Snapped his tendon trying to boot an XT660 into life recently.
I have the VOSA sheet, it decided me on 1kw for an easy 1st (only?) build. Lights will be battery powered 12v. Chain drive to a disc brake hub, and then I have to work out where to fit the engine. Seat tube would be favourite, but I still need to be able to pedal the thing.
Can you get to Cumbria, 3rd w/e of September with your bike? We're racing at Rowrah kart circuit. My apprentice is chasing the Class 3 Moto Team title on Britain's fastest CG125.
I have the VOSA sheet, it decided me on 1kw for an easy 1st (only?) build. Lights will be battery powered 12v. Chain drive to a disc brake hub, and then I have to work out where to fit the engine. Seat tube would be favourite, but I still need to be able to pedal the thing.
Can you get to Cumbria, 3rd w/e of September with your bike? We're racing at Rowrah kart circuit. My apprentice is chasing the Class 3 Moto Team title on Britain's fastest CG125.
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Sounds like a laugh mate, I dont know yet about the bike as its in bits again (eyes roll) It'd be pushing it (probley literally) but if everything goes to plan and I get it done on time, it would be great to ride it down there from sunny Southport 
WELL...
A few days ago my sick bike parts heavy duty shifter kit arrived (looks good so far), I've started fitting it now and orded a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub today which will have to get built onto my rim...more money
!
WELL...
A few days ago my sick bike parts heavy duty shifter kit arrived (looks good so far), I've started fitting it now and orded a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub today which will have to get built onto my rim...more money
!
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locell
Member
if you are building a wheel (lacing one up) check out this, it has a Drum-style (actually a band brake) it works really well
http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/bike-motor-engine-heavy-duty-axle-kit-free-wheel.htm
http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/bike-motor-engine-heavy-duty-axle-kit-free-wheel.htm
arrrrhhhh that looks dead good but its tooooo late i've orded
aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
happycheapskate
New Member
Thanks for the tip! I've had it with the coaster brake and rag lock, thought about putting a clamshell adapter on, but still have it in the box. I think I'll sell it and buy the gubee hub you listed. $100 is stupid, but $50 sounds ok.
Aww, now I see, it's the freewheel version. You have to have a pull start to run it.
Aww, now I see, it's the freewheel version. You have to have a pull start to run it.
GearNut
Active Member
Kingsmotorbikes sell a non freewheel version as well, no pull start needed.
http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/bike-motor-engine-heavy-duty-axle-kit-non-free-wheel.htm
happycheapskate
New Member
Thanks! Just what I needed! Old stuff is ok, cheap stuff is ok, but I don't like "jury rigging" something as important as the rear cog mount.
GearNut
Active Member
If you want a really good rear hub, and are willing to spend more $, get yourself a mountain bike rear hub with a disc brake flange on the left side. Run a disc brake to sprocket adapter. If you want to take that idea even further, get a down hill racing hub with sealed bearings.
happycheapskate
New Member
Yes, but that's exactly the hold up (at "more money"). Yes, you can get even a lowly LX disc hub, and a 6hole motor cog, and a bargain bin cassette, probably under $100. I think the HD kit still comes in well at $50, including a minimal brake, which will save me the trouble of running a wimpy old caliper brake and also take cheaper motor cogs. I'll have to look into it to see if they have any 36 tooth cogs for this thing.
I've mostly fitted the jackshaft kit now, It went on real good I just had to loose the odd lug here an there, the whole engine did rise up an forward a bit so I just have too drill a new hole in the frame for the front engine mount an I'm ready for a test ride, I would add this kit has improved the set up in regard that I've now got bags of room between the chain and the tyre, with the last set up unless the chain was really tight you could touch the tyre with it, I now have over an inch free play
GearNut
Active Member
I've mostly fitted the jackshaft kit now, It went on real good I just had to loose the odd lug here an there, the whole engine did rise up an forward a bit so I just have too drill a new hole in the frame for the front engine mount an I'm ready for a test ride, I would add this kit has improved the set up in regard that I've now got bags of room between the chain and the tyre, with the last set up unless the chain was really tight you could touch the tyre with it, I now have over an inch free play
Please frequently check your frame for cracking at the front mount.
One hole in the frame is bad enough. Two holes in the frame is playing with the devil!
Here is an example of the very possible result of only one hole:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?22675-Cracked-frame
happycheapskate
New Member
Yeah, I did drill my frame, because it's a thick steel beach cruiser, but it was an all-or-nothing deal, and I didn't really like it. (drill it wrong and your bike is trashed).
I didn't know at the time that there was a $10-20 bolt-on adapter for that. Someone here will probably give you the link. Don't drill it! Especially if it's aluminum.
I didn't know at the time that there was a $10-20 bolt-on adapter for that. Someone here will probably give you the link. Don't drill it! Especially if it's aluminum.
GearNut
Active Member
You mean this link? Motorized Bicycle OVERSIZED TUBING solved
It covers darned near all the possible mounting options that do not involve making extra holes in the frame.
The there is the SBP variety if you want to just buy a pre-made one.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=85&osCsid=8l4h6gbv0bfpigfn36burni390
or
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...oducts_id=74&osCsid=8l4h6gbv0bfpigfn36burni39
happycheapskate
New Member
Yeah, thanks for the link. One of the most inventive clamps I've seen was a hockey puck drilled for the tube diameter, then sawed flat in a place, then sawed in half, and drilled to accept bolts for the motor mount plate.
Thats the good thing about this forum, the unexpected advise that sends you another way and the job improves no end as a result, thanks guys !
I had another think about drilling the frame again and didnt do it ! What I did do however was keep the same hole and reinforce it by welding in a 12mm crushbar which should in theory put the strenth back into the frame after initially drilling it, I basically drilled the hole I made in the frame from 10mm to 12mm and inserted a 12mm bar into which I drilled a 10mm hole and welded it in, done !.....(But I'll keep an eye on it).
While I had the welder out I also put a stay on the exhaust pipe, which is nice and rigid now.
I had another think about drilling the frame again and didnt do it ! What I did do however was keep the same hole and reinforce it by welding in a 12mm crushbar which should in theory put the strenth back into the frame after initially drilling it, I basically drilled the hole I made in the frame from 10mm to 12mm and inserted a 12mm bar into which I drilled a 10mm hole and welded it in, done !.....(But I'll keep an eye on it).
While I had the welder out I also put a stay on the exhaust pipe, which is nice and rigid now.
I've done loads of little jobs on this in the last couple of weeks after it failed the SVA on the back brakes, I've binned off completely the rear bicycle V brakes and had a Sturmey archer 3 speed hub and drum brake rebuilt onto a new rim, this will hopefully dissapate the heat created by the braking friction and keep the Inspector happy (where the fingers crossed Icon ? It was a bit of a headscratcher to figure out where exactly to put the gears but eventually placed them on the R/S mirror mount after making a lil bracket for it, eventually I'm going to have the gears mounted to the left of the tank like some of the vintage bikes but for now and to please the SVA people I've had to place them where I dont have to take my hands off the bars to operate them ( If you count the three gears, I now control 17 differant functions without taking my hands off the bars ! Now I've done away with one of the two chains to the back wheel by using a jackshaft I've actually got three chains to worry about now and I thought I better get some chainguards on them.
If all goes well with the shakedown run tommorow, I'll rebook the MSVA for next week.
Left an right side chainguards
It was a bit of a headscratcher to figure out where exactly to put the gears but eventually placed them on the R/S mirror mount after making a lil bracket for it, eventually I'm going to have the gears mounted to the left of the tank like some of the vintage bikes but for now and to please the SVA people I've had to place them where I dont have to take my hands off the bars to operate them ( If you count the three gears, I now control 17 differant functions without taking my hands off the bars ! Now I've done away with one of the two chains to the back wheel by using a jackshaft I've actually got three chains to worry about now and I thought I better get some chainguards on them.If all goes well with the shakedown run tommorow, I'll rebook the MSVA for next week.
Left an right side chainguards
