White wire? Black Wire?

bigcam59

New Member
Well the Pope Motorbike runs great with one exception. There is a black wire that runs to the "kill switch" that does nothing, and a white wire that goes nowhere...I'd like to be able to kill the motor somehow, any suggestions?
 
One wire goes to the blue wire of the cdi the other to the black, it does not matter which connects to which. you should have three wires connected together, black from inside engine black from cdi and one of the kill switch wires. Then blue from engine blue from cdi and the other wire from the kill switch,
 
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Well the Pope Motorbike runs great with one exception. There is a black wire that runs to the "kill switch" that does nothing, and a white wire that goes nowhere...I'd like to be able to kill the motor somehow, any suggestions?

Until you tell us what you are working, any answer would be a guess.
 
The white wire is said to be 6v power for a head light, but nobody I've heard of has got a light to work. So most just cap it off so it can't ground out.
 
umm... *cough* headlight & taillight runnin' of the white wire for years, nor am I the only one lol;

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It's a lighting kit that is no longer available as far as I know - but it's just 6v flashlight bulb for headlight (I'd reco an LED) & 12v LED trim light for the taillight, did have a lil trouble with the idle even after tightening up the plug gap a bit - tho it really didn't bother me as I'd just turn the lights off to start & rev it a bit if I was stopped at an intersection or whatever...



however - the in-frame kits do not have a true lighting coil so it can be a little tricky, which is why I suspect so few bother. If you're not familiar with ignition systems or basic wiring, it is prolly best to jus' get a battery operated bicycle light ;)
 
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It's mostly just a matter of finding a low wattage 6v LED & trying it like this one: 40 Lumen 4.5 to 6 Volt LED Replacement Bulb (maybe, I've not tried that 'un) - but be careful wiring it as unlike incandescent bulbs, most LEDs are polarity sensitive so if you reverse the connections it might fry.

Also remember to include an on/off switch - drawing any power from the feeble ignition system may effect idle, but it will defo make it very hard to start if you forget to turn the light(s) off (don't ask lol). Once riding/engine above say 1500 RPMish there's actually very little/no adverse effect on ignition however, I never noticed any loss in power/misfiring while riding (you may need to reduce plug gap tho).

TBH the flashlight/incandescent bulb I had wasn't the brightest, while adequate it's primary features were the additional safety of others being able to see me & never having to worry about dead batteries/remembering to charge a light. If you do find a good LED, you'll get far more lumens per watt - but again, as there's no actual lighting coil don't expect an eye-searing spotlight of doom heh
 
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Barelyawake have you found inconsistencies in the output voltage of the coils? Neither of mine put out what I call useable voltage, one only puts out 4.8v at about half throttle.
 
Not exactly... TBH as I've not had any ignition system issues w/any of the motors I've had or dealt with, I've never bothered to test output, just replaced the stock plug & wire as SOP *shrug*
 
I was thinking of purchasing a light to run off white wire, but saw an LED flashlight at wallyworld yesterday. it costs about 5 bucks, gonna pick one up soon. its made by rayovac, has one bulb, runs on 4 AA batteries, and is probably better than the pos cheapo headlight i got a few weeks ago online. has a wide reflective lens, so we will see how it does.
 
The best incandescent bulb 2 use is a 4.7Volt, 0.4Watt flashlight bulb. A 12 volt will cause idle problems, (& wont b as bright) a 6Volt wont b as bright as a 4.7Volt. If using LED's its best 2 rectify the AC to DC voltage, but it will still work if u dont as LED's r diodes. If u hook it up the wrong way round it simply wont work, but wont hurt it either. Hook it up the other way & it will, but it may strobe a bit at low revs. Cheers
 
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