Western Flyer BTR

If you have the means to perform that work like in the video then by-all-means. But, Any GC series honda will not fit without some type modification and a sportsman super wide crank. That is if your looking to have fully functioning pedals too. They are a vertical engine not horizontal. If the GX series is considered then it should fit like a big block engine without modification. The GX engines are what the predators are cloned from, not much in size difference when you compare a 99cc to the GX160, just width. I have a CWC roadmaster with 99cc predator and there is room for a GX120 or GX160. IDK about a 196cc or 212cc, that might be pushing it.
 
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anota said:
im in love with that build! Same engine but he makes it look KILLER! That was my plan slowly to make it look like that. I just dont no where or how he got that head.

He just has a lot of clearance on that frame so maybe ill cut up the Higgins and get someone the weld the frame with the deep U

I could put the honda on that and put that 2 stroke on this--- but only if it doesnt fit
Click to expand...

If you read the build the head was made from disks and all thread and just bolted on over the stock.......Curt
 
Going to look into seeing if I can squeeze it in some way and if not ill put the 2 stroke on it-

Great news on the engine! its starts up and purrs after 1 to 2 tries each time!
The guy I bought it from has welded anything and everything for 50 years now and is an artist at heart still kicking back making some of the most incredible things ive ever seen. He said any frame I need welded he'll do it no problem so I might be cutting up that other red cruiser with the 2 stoke on it
 
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Pic of the engine-- just dirty! Slowbalt is correct about size. This thing is HUGE compared to the 2 strokes kits.

Going to do 2 simultaneous builds of both red bike. Swapping the 2 stroke to the western flyer and cutting up the other higgins frame.

He said he'd 'just help me out' and i told him im still only in highschool so i really dont have the funds to go off and blow $100+ an hour on someone to do it for me so he's very willing to work with me
 

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anota that looks like a great start for a decent little BTR!

Stretch the backbones and change the downtube to a dropped loop and you will be miles ahead already. Do you have the tubing needed for those changes?
 
anota that looks like a great start for a decent little BTR!

Stretch the backbones and change the downtube to a dropped loop and you will be miles ahead already. Do you have the tubing needed for those changes?
 
want to stretch like 8 inches and put a flat pipe so a wood sealed mount could rest easy
 

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anota said:
want to stretch like 8 inches and put a flat pipe so a wood sealed mount could rest easy
Click to expand...

That looks good. You wanna use keystone plates to curve the area under the engine? Otherwise you might as well roll the downtube in a curve under the pedal crank....just take carefull measurements for engine AND ground clearance.
 
Im trying to follow the Keystone build as much and as closely as possible but the equipment I have is slim to none. Im one of those guys that improvises as he goes... I have no vision set in stone for these builds

What I really need guidance on now is the drive system. That torq converter looks amazing but way to expensive. Im really interested in the manual clutches that just came out but I seen theyre so-so

I want to cut down the fins on the flywheel. I dont have a metal lathe but could grind them flat- thats where the manual clutch comes into place you can 'pop' the clutch pedaling down the road like a china girl


Would this torq converter be a bad idea??
http://gokartsusa.com/Gokart_Torque_Converter_Compatible_.aspx
 
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anota that torque converter appears to be a chinese copy of the comet 30 series....as far as I know and have seen, they work fine. The quality of the aluminum is a touch softer so they seem to wear a bit more...nothing horrible though.

The 40/41 series is much larger sorry for the brain fart....
 
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anota the torque averter is made by Comet right here in the good 'ole US of A...personally I would go with it. Better metals, tolerances and construction.

Ca-ching! Just my 2 cents worth
 
Done deal! Im going to throw up a wanted ad and scour craigs/ebay for that exact one used/new for cheaper and if not in acoulple days Ill just buy it there if nothing surfaces!

then all i need is a #35 chain and what size sprocket should I go with??

Sounds like the normal rear hub isnt a good idea- Id love drum breaks but again I no nothing about them
 
BTW anota, if you can get the 12 tooth set-up it will be a bit easier on the chain. You need at minimum 3-to-1 secondary drive ratio so do mot go smaller than 36 teeth on the rear hub.
 
I agree with Curt. Have a look below at the URL's provided. good source for components and really reasonable on price. you can call or email her if you have questions about ft or compatibility. DISC brakes are better and these hubs are STRONG!

http://custommotoredbicycles.com/pa..._chain_tensionerswhite_idler_wheel_415_chains

http://custommotoredbicycles.com/disc_brakes_rotors_26_inch_wheels_conversion_brackets


http://custommotoredbicycles.com/sprockets_for_disc_brake_hubs_unviversal_disc_sprocket_adapter

Look down the right side of any of these pages the links take you to. Everything you might need from widened cranks to throttles, brakes and levers are available. Take your time. Get a grasp on what you need. Check dimensions and ask questions if you are not sure something will fit or what mods will be necessary to make things fit.

I hope all this helps you.....
 
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