Welding question

ran49

ran49

New Member
Getting ready to weld a broken tube back together and it a very good fit at the joint.Do you want this joint as tight as possible before welding or a slight bevel on the edges to create a little valley around the joint or a tiny gap?
Thanks,Ron
 
As thin as that tube is a bevel won't make too much difference. You'll probably find that burning all the way through is easy to do:D. The tendency after welding will be for it to break right next to the weld. If it was mine, I would weld it back together and then put a couple of finger patches across the weld. Or put a sleeve over the welded spot and weld the sleeve to the frame. I hope you get it fixed quick. You must have a great wife if she'll let you spend the house paint money on a welding machine..............:D
 
Good luck welding the frame if it's crmo it tends to burn through real easy.My frame
broke right above the rear mount at a water bottle braze on.I ended up getting a piece of pipe that was close to the size of my frame and cut it lenth wise the wraped it around the broken part clamped it in a vice and layed some bar stock across the gaps
and welded it all together.Not the prettiest welds but very strong.
 
I've been practicing on conduit and see what you mean about burn through.I have a cheap 110 v.with 2 power settings.80 and 90 amp.and adjustable speed wire feed.What do you guys think about the power setting and feed speed.Thanks,Ron
 
I should add that one problem I'm having is running a continuous bead.The weld is a series of intermittent gobs,like a poorly fluxed solder job.I filed the metal down bright before welding.Ron
 
Fair:
Thanks for the link.Very informative.You got me looking around and I found this site out of the UK Mig Welding Technique for Thin Metal
I've been practicing the stop and go technique with some success practicing on thin scrap.I believe I have the same welder you mentioned.Ron
 
Good, glad it helped. In there they talk about the zig-zag way. I prefer once I get my puddle going to do small "C's". There are many video's on youtube about welding. Also alot of the welder's web site have good info too (Lincoln, Hobalt, ect.)
You also need to remember thier are many types of diferent welds, just take's time and alot of practice.

The stop and go is good for thin metal, but on thicker metal it's a little harder, you need to keep the heat up in the metal.

I'm leaving for the weekend so won't be around if you have any more question's. I'll try to stop by here later today to see if all is going well.

practice,practice,practice,practice,practice,practice
:ride2:
 
Thats one of the problems with just a 2 heat machine. You only have 2 choices. Infinitely adjustable you can turn the heat down where you can weld continous. But those machines are considerably more expensive. I've just learned to adapt with the squirt and wait method. Like fairracing said, just keep practicing. You'll get it. Oh be sure you get good wire. Some of the real cheap wire makes it nearly impossible to weld. Always go with the better name brands. Never ever use the Chicago electric wire. It is HORRIBLE. Don't ask how I know. I thought I was saving money...........................
 
"Never ever use the Chicago electric wire" Maybe that my problem.The first mistake I made was to take the wrapper off and undo the end of the wire spool and walk away.Well you know what happens,looks like a birds nest backlash on a bait caster.Went to the local farm store and bought another spool.It had the exact same brown "thank you" wrapper.
Anyway, I think I,m going to be able to make it work with a lot grinding and rewelding.I'm having a hard time getting it to flow out.Seems it wants to ball up into little beads.I am cleaning the metal good.I should have ordered some quality wire,but I'm in to big a hurry.Hey I,m getting old here.Thank for all the advise,Ron
 
are you using flux core wire or using the shielded gas? if wire is balling up try more heat and slow wire down a little. are you wrapping another pc. of material around your frame for stiffening? "better to try and not succeed than not to try at all" I use shielded gas mig welder and for thin metal I will use a stop and go method to keep from burning up my metal and also what helps is when you can invest into a auto darkening lens for your welding hood. practice.........................practice!
 
Fifestyle:I'm using flux core.I think your right about not enough heat,but when practicing on conduit I was blowing holes in it,so maybe a little too cautious.I'll post a pic.shortly.I do have the auto darkening lens.I don't see how anyone could do without.Ron
 
Well,for better or worse,here's what i done did.
Photo12-1.jpg
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In reality my screen name should probably be Bondo Boy.As long as it holds I think I can make it look passable.I'll post final results.
The thing that gets me is I know any number of folks on this board could straighten me in short order in person.I should add it would be even worse without everyones advise.Thanks again,Bondo Boy
 
I think it 's overbuilt enough to allow for a somewhat less than perfect welding job.Now I find myself with a brand new welder and an itchy trigger finger.Making my better half a little nervous.She warned me against "yard art" lol.Ron
 
ok , i know this is a real old thread but , conduit is really terrible to weld . it blows thru real easy .

the way i see it though , if you can get good at welding conduit , you should have no trouble with real steel tubing .
 
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