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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by dracothered, Mar 27, 2013.
How stable will they be?
The vbrakes need to be all open, with risk of hitting the tires?
Minor technical difficulties, I'm sure that a person could find some wide pads, or just spacer them out so the arms didn't hit the sidewals of the tires. I guess a fitting saying for this would be, a person will just half to cross that bridge when you get to it
Dang Draco! You got the FATEST bike in Livingston County! Congrats!
I don't think it will be an issue of the sidewall sticking out to far. It will be more of how tall the sidewall is that you may run in to the issue for V-Brakes.
You could always rig it with a rag joint and a top hat fir a disc brake.
Might wanna be careful tho.....
Cool Draco. Thanks for the review!
Using a chain to drive those wide tires might be tricky, but I bet a friction drive would work well on them.
Here are some updates on the Fat bike. Some needed mod are as follows.
1. Change crank to a better set that isn't a boat anchor...
Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset @ $28.00 on Amazon
(remove the 42T ring)
2. Install these... "Race Face Crank Arm Outer Tab Spacers" so you can tighten the chain ring bolts after you remove the 42T ring. @ $10.19 on Amazon
3. Change the tires out to "Super wide Crusher cruiser tires" (
SUNLITE - CLINCHER, TIRES SUNLT 26x3.5 BK/BK WIRE WH-STRIPE Product Code #: JBI-59672) @ $37.48 each on Cloud Electric
4. Handle bars and grips of your choice, plus a better seat.
So here are my costs:
$200 for bike
$28 for crank
$10.19 for crank spacers
$69.96 for tires
$26.38 Handle Bars
Now with these changes it rides real nice and easy.
Looks nice draco! And I've been thinking (oh no! Run for your lives!) That if a person had a bike shop dish the non-drive side of the hub out a bit so if you were to have either a rag joint or hub clamping sprocket adapter, the drive chain would clear the tire. You could probably trust the stock coaster brake for a while, but then it'd probably be a good idea to pick up a surly or origin 8 fatbike hubset, I'm not sure how common used ones are but there are about two pairs of them on my local craigslist at any given time. I think I'm going to try this, because I'm ordering myself a new 2 stroke kit soon.
Are the factory wheels true,,and what size spokes are they Draco?
The wheels run true one mine and I think they are 14 gauge spokes.
Also I don't think you would have to dish the rear wheel any on this to set it up with a engine kit. Though you would need to create custom motor mounts to do it and it would be a tight fit. I have seen it done already, but I don't like how they did it.
Not my bike...
The bike looks awesome!
Just needs a fat arse Serfas Super Cruiser saddle on there
That thing looks RAD!!!
I will have to build one,,very good job brother!!!
Nice job on the chop and weld mounting,,love the way the motor sits flat and where the CDI is mounted!!!!!
As I stated the motorized Huffy Beast is not mine.
Hey draco, do you know who owns the motorized one? A few more pics would be nice.
Oh crap,,i didn't see that yesterday,,still an awesome build,,would like some closer shots to get a better picture.Good luck on the build!
Another thing I did notice is no front brakes,,that will be a little tricky with that fat wheel,,might just have to go drum,,or disk
I wonder if they sell the wheels and tires seperate
Draco, it looks killer with your upgrades!
I recently picked a few Beast's myself, my question for you is WHERE'S your motor? LOL...
P.S. Could you please share a direct link to where you purchased your upgrades, for us confusor illiterates...
Looking forward to your motorizing your Beast!!!
BTW, here's the link to my thread Stretching a Mongoose Beast to fit a Honda pitbike cloned engine in frame:
Photbucket Link: http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae265/ICrazyhorse/Phoenix Bike Works/DSCN4111_zpsd4cb4c24.jpg
The Handle bars.
OMFG that is sick.... i must have one