Turnigy 10.0

[silverbear]

CB2 said, "You could run 2 to 4 of these and charge them on the cheaper chargers. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

That would allow me to use the charger I have which would keep costs down, so looks better to me. What about the controller... okay to use the one I have which is 36 volt? I also like that I could start with two of them and add up to two more if needed and when leaves sprout on the money tree.When charging the batteries would that be each battery pack by itself, one at a time or could they be charged together? Thanks for advising and if I'm making this thread veer off into another direction, I apologize and will ask questions under the trike thread. So nice that you guys know something and are willing to share it. Much appreciated...
SB

 

[cannonball2]

Look at your controller and see if you can determine the low cut voltage. That's the only real concern. If its around 32v its usable but I would advise voltage monitoring and cutting operation around 35v(3.5v/cell). A cheap voltmeter takes care of that. Otherwise the controller is fine. You will need series connectors(about $5) to join the packs into a 10s configuration and charge them in that configuration If you run 4 you will series the packs in twos then parallel them for 10ah. About $15 worth of connectors. Its plug and play simple. Lipos don't span voltage like SLAs. Their capacity is in about a 7v range and they are pretty much constant til they drop rather sharply in the end. They will happily yield current til they commit suicide dropping under their minimum voltage and wont recharge again. That's why voltage monitoring is important when running an SLA configured controller. Its not a big deal, like watching the fuel gauge in your car. Don't runt it out!

 

[silverbear]

I'll take a look over the next few days. Controllers don't look very expensive... I see them around $10.00 - $15.00. This would be for a brushless 36V motor. And with one of these controllers I could use my bike handlebar throttle? And these controllers would be configured for lipo batteries?
This is beginning to look doable.
SB

 

[magwa]

Seems all the XT90 adapters are in the land of the Panda. I will just solder some XT60s in place of them so I can use the series adapters I have. Am always nervous soldering wires as close as they are on these connectors. I do them one at a time shrink tubing one first, still!

The most the controller will pull is 20amps anyway, well with in the XT60s rating, just wont be any fun dealing with the bigger wires.

I will pair these with two 5000 3s for 15s(63v) will be a bit easier on the poor controller.
I can also just run the two 6s as the intended 48v system and the LVC will cut at [email protected]/cell.

Love the modular capabilities of this type battery.

Ohhhh...Pics, please....

 

[Lungcookie]

Looks like I missed a day.

SB
Ask away.
I noticed that there are 24v and 48v throttles, not sure if they are limited voltage or what.
It really dosent matter where the power comes from Lipo/Lead/lightning.
Its all electricity right?


CB2 has a better way with words than I, its better I just sit back and read sometimes.

Personally I would stay away from the 4s 5.0 now.
Too easy to plug something in wrong with the multi pack config, the way I was running it.
If you do, use the connectors CB2 is using.

Out of the 12 4s/5.0 I bought, 2 died, 1 cell went low on both packs.
Also I shorted 1 out plugging positive to neg, big SNAP! Got instantly supper hot, kinda scared me a bit...thinking thermal meltdown.
Probably lucky it was at 3.8v/cell. I have seen some kentucky fried fingers over on E-S.
But nothing happened just killed the battery.

The 6s 10.0 are the way to go, price/ease of use, in my book

The Thunder 1220 was a popular choice for 12s over on E-S, a year ago.
No experience with it.

I just don't trust bulk charging, every house fire seems to be some one not fully paying attention to their charging.
If you set up a system that monitors every thing with BMS, set and forget, then that BMS dies.
What then? POOF?
Or you are bulk charging and you have 1 bad cell that wont take power,
Will it just keep charging until it gets to the proper voltage by over charging the good cells?

With the balance chargers it adds another level of safety because you are monitoring each cells voltage.

 

[kevyleven007]

10s packs huh? What you would need to do is get a bms from batteryspace or ebay or wherever and a charger for 37v lipo pack. probably cost you about 100 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-37V-42V...-PCB-System-/221769582503?hash=item33a27f47a7 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lithium-Ion...465611b&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=221769582503 make that 70 bucks. If you aren't sure about what you are doing get some tech to help.

 

[cannonball2]

In my Li-ion pack when one cell in a group failed the BMS would not initiate the charge. That's a safety I guess that's necessary with 18650 packs. With Lipos one at least can monitor the individual cells.

I agree that the 10ah packs are the best yet for most ebike systems and cost efficient. 10ah covers most ebike usage except maybe longer commutes/very hilly terrain/heavy loading. The 16/20ah packs work there but are more $$. I enjoy using the 5ah packs which are really great in the flats, and the 10ahs take me as far as I need to go.

The suggestion for 10s was to have a pack that is basically compatible with the common 36v controller like SB (and a lot of people)has. After looking it seems most of these controllers LVC@31v, a lipo will survive that voltage but its hard on it. Simply cutting usage around 35v solves the problem. Lipo specific controllers are on the upper end of the $$ range. The common $40 range charger will handle charging.

Using the XT60 connectors supplied with most of the packs eliminates reversed polarity. Though its a bit spooky plugging in a series connector the first time!

I assume I am the only one over volting the common controllers? They are so cheap who cares, and I have yet to have one blow. The motors could care less. More voltage=more fun!

 

[Lungcookie]

I just got the controller with 4110fets good to 90v. Didn't know how many volts I need.
Allready thinking I should try 18s before long.

 

[kevyleven007]

wow. lets see 4.1v x 22s =90.2v. 4.2v x 21s= 88.2v 18s x 4.2=75.6v That's a lot of juice. A lot of fun too.

 

[cannonball2]

Now were are getting somewhere LC! 18s just means one more 6s, too easy!

How do you think the motor is gonna relate to that? My cheapie 250w 36v eats 63v ok. Cant imagine 75v will phase the Mac 10 (is it?). Does sound like even more fun!

 

[Lungcookie]

Yeah getting ahead of myself again.
18s...krazy character.
It is a sickness, more more more
Maybe better for a DD hub and one of these frame kits that are available now.

I think these Mac motors are fine around 60v but the more you dump into it the faster something will fail, gears or clutch. Can get spares.

I am happy with the 2/50v and 3/67v pack combo I run now.
This bike is already faster than I need.
Unless you limit the amps I think the mac would cook, without cooling.
I would have to oil cool as I ride in talcum powder I really cant be drilling any holes in the case.

It got fairly warm on 18amp 16s all stock.

 

[cannonball2]

So limit the amps with the CA3. If you limit it to [email protected] thats only 1134w. You are pulling 1209w now. may be a little slower on acceleration, but the top end will be faster.
I'm not getting any complaints from my cheapie geared hub on 63v@20a/1260w. I run it fairly hard, but then I'm not the nads to the wall throttle jockey you are.

Get a 9C/clone, change the phase wires and head to 120v!

 

[Lungcookie]

I have been running this MAC10 on 16amp 750w limited by CA3.
Seems like the sweet spot...for me and my riding location.
Yeah soft dirt eats amps. I don't ride on the road so its like going uphill, in the soft dirt, all the time.
16s x 4.2=67.2v

 

[cannonball2]

Do you mean 16s 750w CA3 limited? If its 16amps that would be 1075.2w (amps x volts). If you have the watts limited to [email protected] then you are only pulling a hair over 11amps!

 

[Lungcookie]

I mean amps yes. not cells.
That's one of the great things with the CA3.
It over-rides the controller.
It will in fact pull over 16a and 750w.
What is happening is that the CA3 allows you to set the limit at which you want it to attain.
Its not so cut and dried as V x A=W.

 

[cannonball2]

Yeah the CA is a cool thing. Getting ready to build a weird purpose built ebike and will install mine and get it sorted out. Its nice to be able to set so many parameters.

 

[Lungcookie]

Dang! CB2 you got it bad!
Another one?

 

[cannonball2]

Yeah, nuts huh? Actually am just reassembling stuff I have disassembled. I should sell it but hate shipping. I have a complete 9C and MP2 set up. Will reuse the 9C stuff to build a bike specifically for hunting. I found out by accident riding in the woods just how close you can slip in on feral hogs with an ebike. These hogs are invasive in our area. The DNR encourages eradication and basically pulls out all the stops on how one hunts them. Gonna do my part as they rut up the island pretty bad. They are decent eating too!

Might start a thread on this build. Waiting on tires/tubes now.

 

[magwa]

Looks pretty good LC. They only come off the charger at 50.4v however. I guess I got used to the 13s Li-ion coming off at 54.6 which adds a bit more duration.
Im running 3) 4s 5ah packs that are the same voltage as 2) 6s and the initial charge drops off pretty fast to around 48v. The advantage is at 50.4v the control cut voltage is exactly right. But 10ah! WOW!

Im gonna order some!

Heres a pic of the 3) 4s 5ah sitting in place of the 10lb Li-ion pack on my old Pie/ Diamond back. What a difference! 8lbs lighter just about as fast but with less range of course. Still very usable in an area where usage is short runs(10/15mi with miserly use). The 10ah should be perfect!

I might suggest you use the wireless series connectors for the XT90 plugs on the packs it really is a simple/compact way to link them. That's whats on this bike.

Sidebar question:

When you have the batteries in series and you are monitoring through one of the balancers,
will it show the voltages in just the cells in the battery pack that houses THAT balance port?

What does it show for total voltage if you have them connected in series and you use a monitor
on one balance line?

 

[Lungcookie]

Yes just the pack that has the cell-log on it.
The balance leads go to each cell.
So you are measuring at a cell level. 3.5v-4.15v.

Unplug that serial when you charge.