tried everything to get clutch to stop slipping

desolation

desolation

Member
so i tried everything to get the clutch to stop slipping cleaned it, tightened the flower nut, tightened the tension spring. but couldn't get it to stop slipping there's plenty of clutch pad left its not worn out motors brand new.

so i decided to look at the flower nut and where it screws on. i took a file to it and took off about a millimeter of metal off the bottom of the flower nut where it was hitting the clutch shaft and not allowing it to move fully. seems to have solved my problem of it not garbing looked like it wasn't fully machined down and there was a lip left that was causing the problem.

but its still slipping while going down the road so i think i need to take a bit more off off the flower nut to make it sit right Ive got it in as far as it will tighten so my only option is to modify it.


has anyone else ran into this problem?
 
You said the clutch pads are not worn, but are the oil soaked? Any signs of a glazing on them? If you have a malformed flower nut it's the first I've heard of that.
How tight is the clutch cable? Do you have any free play in it at all?
When does the clutch slip? While riding or just when you leave a dead stop?

Tom
 
i cleaned it with brake parts cleaner to get any oil out that coulda been in there. and even with the clutch cable disconnected it would slip to the point where i couldn't even turn the bike over. i have the flower nut tightened in as far as it will go and it still wouldn't stop slipping >.<
 
it releases fine. theres no problem there at all. i compared the clutch plate form the problem clutch to my working clutch and it looks like they ground the hole the flower nut fits into down to much so its way to far into the clutch plate

im gonna take and weld a washer to the clutch plate that has a hole in it the same size and the flower nut and grind it down to replace the metal that was grounded out
 
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This happened to me and I had to tighten the main clutch spring, here's how I did it,remove carb,disconnect clutch cable and remove it from the adjusting screw on the case,unscrew the post the adjusting screw on,raise the rear tire off the ground,insert a 3/16th in flathead screwdriver in the hole toward the clutch side,spin the rear wheel counter clockwise till the head of the screwdriver drops into the slot on the collar inside ,with it in their spin the rear wheel to the rear to tighten it,about a 1/4 turn worked for me. If you find a parts breakdown you'll see the parts . Well this is what worked for me GOOD LUCK Be safe Later Bob
 
ive tightened the main clutch tension spring still didint help
im gonna replace the pads and try to tighten it more and see what happens
 
well after fighting with the clutch for 3 weeks tring to get it to not slip and disengage it broke yesterday not sure what happened but the shaft the flower nut goes on moves freely now called bike berry gonna see about getting the clutch replaced
 
i think i got this one.....when you tighten the clutch.. are your holding the clutch lever down? because, YOU SHOULD BE!!!! it sounds like your tightening the clutch without pulling the clutch to release tension on the pads and allow you to tighten the flower nut.. that would also explain the snapping of the clutch shaft.... i hope this helps
 
nope i had the clutch lever in when i was tightening the flower nut it was working fine all day then it started making screeching noises so i took it apart and took the bucking bar out and the bearing and there was a bunch of metal shavings around the bearing.

this is my 3rd motor( been messing with these china motors for half a year now) other 2 are running great with no problems this one ive had trouble with the clutch since day 1
 
well turns out the pin in the clutch shaft was bad, and it looked like it was broken in shipping because when i pulled it apart to replace it, it was in 3 pieces. which would explain why i couldn't get the clutch to work properly. i just used a titanium drill bill and cut a new pin to the right length works much better than the stock pin.engages and disengages smooth as butter.

if your having problems getting you're clutch to work right id replace the pin in the clutch shaft.
 
Congratulations on your diagnosis and repair!
Wow! This is the first time I have heard of the pin/ plunger being broken, let alone in 3 pieces.
I guess the factory worker tempered it in ice water instead of oil. Made it so brittle it shattered.
 
desolation said:
well turns out the pin in the clutch shaft was bad, and it looked like it was broken in shipping because when i pulled it apart to replace it, it was in 3 pieces.
Click to expand...
You mean the bucking bar which pushes on the ball bearing?

It's 5/16" in diameter so how could it break into 3 pieces in shipping?

Would really like to see a pic of that. :)
thanks
 
no not the bucking bar the pin that goes in the collar that clutch spring pushes on to pull the clutch plate on to the clutch pads

its a 5/32 drill bit sized pin
 
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yep part number 21 is the failing point i had on my flying horse motor was in 3 pieces when i cracked the case apart to asses the damage.

and im starting to think my second flying horse motor has a bad pin keep having to move the clutch arm father and farther to keep it from slipping but not as bad as the first motor.

i do like the feel of the clutch with then new pin in it disengages way smoother and i havent had to adjust it one bit and it grabs really good to.

i feel like the pin they used has a bit of flex to it and is the main reason some cant get there clutches to disengage and engage right.
 
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