The Stray Cat Maytag build

[Banjoben]

Cool. Of all the gearboxes mentioned so far, that peerless is the best. I don't think it will work for this build, as with my current setup, I need a straight through design, but with the potential of a 3 speed box almost makes me want to reconsider my drive setup.
Is the ebay sale the only one you have Msrfan?
I just keep thinking about this cool shift lever idea, and running a flat belt.....
I gotta look into it a bit to see if it would work....

 

[msrfan]

Cool. Of all the gearboxes mentioned so far, that peerless is the best. I don't think it will work for this build, as with my current setup, I need a straight through design, but with the potential of a 3 speed box almost makes me want to reconsider my drive setup.
Is the ebay sale the only one you have Msrfan?
I just keep thinking about this cool shift lever idea, and running a flat belt.....
I gotta look into it a bit to see if it would work....

The one on ebay is just the first one I looked at. Usually there's about 7-8 listed at any given time. There's a certain amount of power loss running through a clutch to a sprocket, then through bevel gears, two straight cut gears and out to another sprocket and chain to the rear wheel, but the reduction is so great that the Maytag's 5/8 hp might just pull it. I'm just waiting for whozawhat to get his running and see how easily it pulls. Budfab's does okay, but his is a belt to a friction drive and he has to really feather the throttle to get it going. On the other hand, on a project like this, it's mostly about the build and if it goes down the street, that's a bonus. Making a running piece of art is worth a lot by itself.

 

[Mr.B.]

Great idea placing the motor in that position.


I've been collecting old motors for 45 years or so.

I wonder if you could stack 3 or 4 of these together front to back?

How cool would 8 cylinder Maytag be in a long frame like a Henderson?

“-)

-Kirk

 

[feelyx]

That's a nice little gearbox, but worm drives don't freewheel very well or at all sometimes when you decelerate.

Maybe put a free wheel bearing on the output side? who knows?? for $5 each I had to buy a few to play with.

 

[feelyx]

Great idea placing the motor in that position. I'm thinking of the same mounting for one of my Maytag twins. I have several and I also have some Peerless gearboxes that could be mounted up on it's end under the engine connected by a clutch/chain/sprocket setup to the the trans and the sprocket out the side with three or five speeds to the rear wheel. The trans also has a little disc brake opposite the output sprocket. I also wanted to use a damaged flywheel I have with the outer rim and fins broken off. I would place two little fans at each cylinder driven off a belt on what's left of the flywheel. I used one of these transmissions on my "Four Wheel Project'' in the Tavern category. They are packed with grease and can be positioned however you want. I would obviously disable the reverse gear.

Anyway, great start on your project. Always glad to see someone using antique motors and bikes for special builds. After all Maytag motors aren't called multimotors for no reason, they were used on everything from washing machines to lawnmowers to generators, water pumps, compressors, etc.

Excellent find on the shaft drive. How many spokes do the wheels have? I'll have to keep an eye out for a future build.

I've been collecting old motors for 45 years or so. Let me know if I can help.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peerless-Tr...674?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2a430102

Well he took $40 offer immediately so I imagine someone could go cheaper.

 

[msrfan]

Maybe put a free wheel bearing on the output side? who knows?? for $5 each I had to buy a few to play with.

Now you're talking. Always a way to make something work. Let us know what you make with them.

 

[Banjoben]

Been doing dome more work. I have the upper bracket for the final drive tacked in place to get an idea of how things will fit. The input tube will need to be extended about 3 1/2" to get past the new larger rims, and a good heavy mounting plate fabricated. I believe that plate will also anchor the jack shaft I will have for a further gear redction setup. I think the final drive is somewhere between 5 or 6:1, so I wanted to put in a 2:1 upstream to bring it down more.
Effectivly making it a 10 or 12:1 reduction.
One of my other issues is how to keep the ability to pedal. My initial idea I've been working on was to adapt a sprag clutch off the donor 10-speed to give my rear hub a sprocket. Ive been working on that, and have it almost ready to install, but now I've been mulling over an idea to run the pedals through the shaft drive. I think it can be done with a 90 deg gearbox, and the sprag, or freewheel clutch on that. I gotta do some more thinking, but I may wind up talking to you guys about one of those boxes.
Here's pics.
First of the final drive set in place with the small 16" rim from the moped that will not be used, and then of the 10-speed hub, mid modification.

011 by banjoben42, on Flickr

016 by banjoben42, on Flickr

 

[Whozawhat]

Hey Ben. I just looked through your build. You are off to a great start.
Nice to see a build with a different view. The fan forward mounting of the engine looks quite cool.

My Maytag project is still stalled.
I am slowly carving some phenolic into a vintage style ignition kill switch before I do the first start up. Summer and inlaws are keeping me busy.
Oh and I started another car project too.

 

[cannonball2]

I know this is an old thread, but thats a right cool build you have underway! Love the engine lay out! Any progress? I am sure you are aware the little 72 is no power house, something like 5/8hp stock. I know The Maytag Flyer and Budfabs build use modded engines and seem to have decent HP. I would think the use of a gear box set up from the M/C would eat a good bit of power being gears. Strangely I am working out a similar build with my last remaining 72. Didnt know this one was under way. My thoughts are to use a friction drive set up(a favorite of mine with low hp) with the roller driving the tires side wall. Would require the engine to be off set slightly. Had thought to use a bearing supported drive shaft with the bearing blocks being hinged and spring loaded to be able to clutch/declutch. Seeing as it only as to move maybe an 1/8" to disengage Im hoping to be able to drive through a rag/flex joint to allow the slight movement. Anyway hope you are still going with the build, will be incredibly cool and unique with the east/west engine.