This j shaft kit is just the Beginning going to scrap the bike soon , and go custom full suspension! Theres a total of about 7000 miles on it. Will take the good parts a transfer them over looking at a steel frame maby. More picts soon!!!!!!!!
The SBP Jack Shaft rules !!!
- Thread starter Goat Herder
- Start date
Everything will be made more pretty on my new build . This is my daily rider so function came before beauty It gots ta work first. Its all been allot ah fun. LOL Because I ride it so often its a constant study that has been all the fun!
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Nice bike GH, Serious DH forks you got there. I haven't had the heart to to swap out the set up on my trials bike yet. I see now by looking at your bike what the rake is going to be like. I feel it getting closer.
I am every bit of six foot tall more! I cannot exist without the forks. The bike as it is I feel cramped on. My custom builds will reflect theses thoughts. Whats sad over 50 percent of the money one one of these new builds will be the forks, wheel, tire brakes etc. A quality down hill fork ain't cheap least last I checked. Anyone have any links?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-1-5-MANITOU-STANCE-100MM-FREERIDE-DOWNHILL-FORK_W0QQitemZ130303081117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1e56ab3a9d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
Dude, these aren't exactly those roxshox boxers you have now. Manitou the guy has buy it now for $95.00. Beats the out of a G or maybe 2G's you could spend. There were a cuople of good sets in the 650.00 range on there also.
Dude, these aren't exactly those roxshox boxers you have now. Manitou the guy has buy it now for $95.00. Beats the out of a G or maybe 2G's you could spend. There were a cuople of good sets in the 650.00 range on there also.
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Sorry the post didn't work I highlighted it all into my browser please try again!!! I be much obliged. When I post extra links on this site? I copy and past so to speak . PM me for better description if it helps . I will probly post the way for it works here. Its sad some things are hard to explain. We for I know are here to fight the good fight! Thats why I love this forum so much. LOL. Just cought me tired. I am wore out let me know for help !!!!
I have found a good bit of 650 range it comes without the etc. bit . why would I do it just stay tuned.LOL God Bless Us All.......Lets Get Redly To Rumble lOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Uh yeah I ride In The late words of All Bundie Lets Rock...........
I NEED HELP! i was getting ready to swap out my cartrige bottom bracket for the cup and cone one that comes with the kit and i realized i didn't have the tool to remove it. I tried using a screw driver and hammer to unscrew it but sticking the screwdriver in the splines at an angle and hitting it but it broke the splines. I got pretty frustrated and decided since this thing was plastic i could just break it apart. problem is it won't break. so the bottom bracket tool is useless even if i had one. What do i do? is the bike ruined?
If you take it to your local bike shop they can have it removed in about 2 minutes. They should also have the bearing set you need.
BTW chances are you tightening it not loosening it.
Bike shop is the way to go and you can pick up the silly tool there for like $10. If they sell Pyramid tools you might be able to get a neat little kit with a bunch of weird bike tools for $45 or less which includes that one, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.
Bike shop is the way to go and you can pick up the silly tool there for like $10. If they sell Pyramid tools you might be able to get a neat little kit with a bunch of weird bike tools for $45 or less which includes that one, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.
Really the socket thats made for that is the Ideal way to go. On my install the factory used some evil lock tight it was a little rough. I wound up using an old race as a die too chase the threads. Had to use a hacksaw to cut relief grooves against the threads on the old race piece that I had lying around that matched the threads on the bike. Then with brake clean I got it . That was a pain in the but LOL Hope that helps someone!It doesn't take much to buger those fine threads. Then you are really screwed. Also its very easy to go the wrong direction.
erm no - that would just be silly lol, there's a unidirectional freewheel bearing mounted to the pedal crank and it's sprockets - it's high quality one of the main reasons for the SBP kit's cost 
Hey Goat Herder, your tensioner looks ok, but all the extra welding isn't nescessary, and i've designed my own tensioner some time ago to work without modifying the SickBikeParts shift kit, also making a tensioner for the magneto and coil side of the engine as per the pics.
Travelled approx 3000 kilometers on both tensioners without a hint of trouble, except that i don't have to bother checking and adjusting chain tension anymore.
It's easy to keep an eye on chain stretch as the extended tensioner arm allows a visual as the arm drops due to chain stretch.
I still use the supplied SickBikeParts tension rod to set the initial chain freeplay and to prevent the engine walking down the frame tubes with vibration.
Fabian
Travelled approx 3000 kilometers on both tensioners without a hint of trouble, except that i don't have to bother checking and adjusting chain tension anymore.
It's easy to keep an eye on chain stretch as the extended tensioner arm allows a visual as the arm drops due to chain stretch.
I still use the supplied SickBikeParts tension rod to set the initial chain freeplay and to prevent the engine walking down the frame tubes with vibration.
Fabian
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My prob at the time was that I got creases on the seat post tubing that always favoured that spot. While it was nice to have spring driven tensioners I think thing it made my bike a little ugly, but it worked. A set it and forget it mentality.
The bike is aluminium I always figured one of the rear frame trailing arms was gonna crack, but with 10,000 miles on it it never did. About 3000 miles with the J shaft
Having done a ton of peddling in my day I really figured that the chain would start jumping off the teeth as it will occasionally do on rear smaller rear cog sets.
However though the small out put cog on the right has held up quit nicely! My Idea had been to wrap the chain around it and get as much teeth as I could. The Jshaft kit is really a good kit this mods are not imperative. No one has ever complained of such issues.
At the time I just welded every thing in it really was quick and dirty I did not spend much time on it at all. A lot less fab work with a welder around! I had felt a need to brace things up a bit as I had really been romping on it.
If you look at the picts you will see the front mount was not done right. This bike is too small for me... Peddling this bike is very hard on the knees because the cranks are under the seat and not forward. I am tall. I kept the bike around it performed very well. It is also very light in weight.
I eventually led my self to this project.http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=3160 This one has been a whole new can of worms.
The Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle kit is a fine kit and worth the money too I would recommend it! In the early days of riding I always felt the motor would be bogging down going through a neighbourhood. So that led to going too fast.
The kit made me enjoy life and the China 2 smoke that much more!! Better more polite riding habits!! You just let off the throttle everything gets quite and ya just coast and listen to the tires working the pavement. The sounds of birds. I love it! I got better fuel economy with it as well!
It is a great kit I highly recommend it .While this thread is a old one It is cool to say the kit did well. I have grown since then a bit. I saw your kit some time ago. I felt apologetic the whole time I posted here. They are fun enjoy!
The bike is aluminium I always figured one of the rear frame trailing arms was gonna crack, but with 10,000 miles on it it never did. About 3000 miles with the J shaft
Having done a ton of peddling in my day I really figured that the chain would start jumping off the teeth as it will occasionally do on rear smaller rear cog sets.
However though the small out put cog on the right has held up quit nicely! My Idea had been to wrap the chain around it and get as much teeth as I could. The Jshaft kit is really a good kit this mods are not imperative. No one has ever complained of such issues.
At the time I just welded every thing in it really was quick and dirty I did not spend much time on it at all. A lot less fab work with a welder around! I had felt a need to brace things up a bit as I had really been romping on it.
If you look at the picts you will see the front mount was not done right. This bike is too small for me... Peddling this bike is very hard on the knees because the cranks are under the seat and not forward. I am tall. I kept the bike around it performed very well. It is also very light in weight.
I eventually led my self to this project.http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=3160 This one has been a whole new can of worms.
The Sick Bike Parts LLC - Performance parts for your motorized bicycle kit is a fine kit and worth the money too I would recommend it! In the early days of riding I always felt the motor would be bogging down going through a neighbourhood. So that led to going too fast.
The kit made me enjoy life and the China 2 smoke that much more!! Better more polite riding habits!! You just let off the throttle everything gets quite and ya just coast and listen to the tires working the pavement. The sounds of birds. I love it! I got better fuel economy with it as well!
It is a great kit I highly recommend it .While this thread is a old one It is cool to say the kit did well. I have grown since then a bit. I saw your kit some time ago. I felt apologetic the whole time I posted here. They are fun enjoy!
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