The random tandem thus far

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Wevil Kenevil

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It's creeping that way. I'm leaning towards this 50mm 100c builder I have compared to the yd no head I got.

What to do about the exhaust port being so freaking big with such a small face?

Thinking of viper flex pipe with a baffle no muffler and an insert bolt on collar.
 

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Wevil Kenevil

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It's taking shape. I'm just waiting for the throttle and control module for the electric front wheel.

I mean it's far from done but it's getting there.
 

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Wevil Kenevil

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Got the motor mount installed today...

I think I am going to use body panels with spiderweb designs cut into them or something. Red on black Munsters style... Idk.

Plenty of room for the carb.

Made brackets for mounting the body plates out of old bed frame ...
IMG_20240119_150903303.jpg
 

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Wevil Kenevil

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I got the front wheel drive e hub and controller this morning now all I got to do is get over to a friend's house who's got a battery for me and install it. So it will be a hybrid electric/gas bike.

The e hub is more or less for just starting it and getting it rolling then I flip a switch and it turns into a Dynamo and I'm able to charge a battery off of it but it really doesn't do me any good because I've already got a secondary coil on there for my accessories but you know...

I will post pictures tonight after I get it installed. Im jazzed!
 
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Wevil Kenevil

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It doesn't look like the e hub is going on tonight BUT...

I did decide to put the gas tank under the seat and tuck it out of sight with a couple flat panels. A weed eater tank will fit nicely inside.
The green thing is for fitment...
 

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Wevil Kenevil

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Got the e hub on now I am waiting for the control unit...
Something I learnt about front wheel e hubs from reading forums here that probably saved me from a potential wreck.

Don't use a pedal assist control if using a front wheel drive hub because it will cause you to wreck by engaging at the improper time.

Thank you to all who discussed this topic on here.

I know it may seem trivial but on this bike that I'm building I would hate to wreck on this thing is so heavy it would be catastrophic
 

Wevil Kenevil

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Holy smokes.. I didn't know the can of worms I was opening when I decided to add the electric front wheel to this project.

It's not plug and play... It's Torque arms and brake adapters, control voltages and chargers and...

Instability and all kinds shhhtufff
.

I am going see it through. But damn I will make sure what's what next time.
 

Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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Front hubs can be a problem for different reasons but at your power level it’s a safety issue; make sure you have good torque arms so that hub motor axle doesn’t break the fork dropouts. At the very high power levels (and weight) it introduces traction problems and worse handling. The way you got it is just fine and should be great to avoid pedaling to start the engine, and won’t affect handling or reduce traction noticeably.

I see you wanna just use the motor to start then switch to dynamo. That’s cool; oh I think you could setup the switch easily by simply having a switch for your regen brake. Usually a switch is put in a lever or off the caliper. In my tube frame ebike build I’ve got two mech brake switches one on the lever and one off the rear brake foot pedal. But mine wasn’t for braking it was for brake light. You could setup your controller for very low regen as needed.

Ive used a throttle for variable regen brake for 5 years, and it’s always been, I get 5% back of what I put in to get the bike moving, to stop it. Was a couple miles on the last one (40 mile range).
 
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Wevil Kenevil

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Mar 4, 2022
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Sack a tomatoes California
Front hubs can be a problem for different reasons but at your power level it’s a safety issue; make sure you have good torque arms so that hub motor axle doesn’t break the fork dropouts. At the very high power levels (and weight) it introduces traction problems and worse handling. The way you got it is just fine and should be great to avoid pedaling to start the engine, and won’t affect handling or reduce traction noticeably.

I see you wanna just use the motor to start then switch to dynamo. That’s cool; oh I think you could setup the switch easily by simply having a switch for your regen brake. Usually a switch is put in a lever or off the caliper. In my tube frame ebike build I’ve got two mech brake switches one on the lever and one off the rear brake foot pedal. But mine wasn’t for braking it was for brake light. You could setup your controller for very low regen as needed.

Ive used a throttle for variable regen brake for 5 years, and it’s always been, I get 5% back of what I put in to get the bike moving, to stop it. Was a couple miles on the last one (40 mile range).
Indeed... You've given me an idea... Hmmm.

Thanks Tony! You're always a source of inspiration brother!

My prayers are with you big dog!
 
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Wevil Kenevil

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Mar 4, 2022
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Sack a tomatoes California
Front hubs can be a problem for different reasons but at your power level it’s a safety issue; make sure you have good torque arms so that hub motor axle doesn’t break the fork dropouts. At the very high power levels (and weight) it introduces traction problems and worse handling. The way you got it is just fine and should be great to avoid pedaling to start the engine, and won’t affect handling or reduce traction noticeably.

I see you wanna just use the motor to start then switch to dynamo. That’s cool; oh I think you could setup the switch easily by simply having a switch for your regen brake. Usually a switch is put in a lever or off the caliper. In my tube frame ebike build I’ve got two mech brake switches one on the lever and one off the rear brake foot pedal. But mine wasn’t for braking it was for brake light. You could setup your controller for very low regen as needed.

Ive used a throttle for variable regen brake for 5 years, and it’s always been, I get 5% back of what I put in to get the bike moving, to stop it. Was a couple miles on the last one (40 mile range).
I'm cutting my torc arms (2) out of leaf springs, it's just taking a while to file the inside holes out to exactly fit the axel. I want that to be as precise as can be.

Because of the way that the bike rides and how heavy it is I definitely do not want to wreck this bike. It wouldn't be pretty.
 
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Tony01

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Grin technologies makes a good set of TAs for 16mm axles with 10mm flats. Those are stamped probably. You could get them lasered to your spec and they’d be dead nuts for about $30 from sendcutsend. I got these to sell as upgrade for a production ebike.

Makin em yourself is fine but they’ll never be as good as a laser.
 

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Wevil Kenevil

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Lol on the hello kitty seat. So hilarious

The Ld 100cc (50mm piston) definitely works better with a baffle and longer pipe.

I'm running the flex pipe on the 100cc with the G4 or G5 cylinder (I can't remember which... The one with the open ports) a 3d printed velocity stack, the piston has been "skirted" on the side that faces the intake so it allows it to suck in more air, exhaust and intake ports cleaned and polished/ roughed, and a 74 carburetor jet but I'm afraid that's not big enough I'm probably going to jump up to a 78, and the billet high compression head.

I definitely suggest looking into all of the stuff you're going to have to buy because none of the standard 80cc stuff fits it unless you buy one of those kits that has been honed out... Which I would avoid those all together. Now that it's had a chance to break in I like the way that it sounds and handles a little better.

But yeah, if you need to ask me any questions or anything whatever you're welcome to oh avoid the thruster pipe on the 100cc because you don't have any room hardly between the pipe and the head and there's no place to support the pipe it sounds cool but it don't work.
 
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