Thanks for the help so far!

T

Toothy

New Member
Thanks for the help so far..need a little more!

Hi all,
I’m new to this great hobby and had a couple of questions. My bike is almost complete and I was wondering just how freely the wheel spins when not in gear. Mine seems to be very stiff. It could be that the whole engine is not lubed up yet but I was a little concerned.
Also, I bought the bike as a project and it had been used. I have no idea how many miles it has on it. How would you tackle the oil mixture? I don’t know if it was properly broken in etc. In retrospect I would never have gone this route but just bought a new engine.
One last thing, due to fitting I was only able to install the chain tensioner from above the chain coming down, putting pressure on top of the chain….does this pose any issues?
Thanks……
I’ll post a picture soon…..it’s starting to look like a bike!
 
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With the engine drive chain installed and clutch properly adjusted there will still be some parasitic drag when pedaling with the clutch disengaged. A chain that is too tight or lack of lubrication can also contribute to that drag.

You don't want the tensioner on the top chain run. The chain is already tensioned when the engine is driving the bike. It is the bottom chain that goes slack and needs the tensioner.
Have you tried shortening the chain and running without a tensioner? Some frames will allow this and you'll be happier without the tensioner. Keep your chain tension at 1/2" to 3/4" slack measured on the top chain run as you gently roll the bike forward with the clutch engaged. As the piston comes into a compression stroke the top chain will go slack. That's where you want that 1/2 to 3/4" measurement.

If you are using a good air cooled 2 stroke oil follow the manufacturer's mix ratio recommendations. We usually suggest anywhere from 24:1 to 32:1 as a good ball-park mix ratio.

Good luck.

Tom
 
Right on... brother Tom

Couldn't have said it any better or likely as good.....

Welcome to this great forum Toothy

Map
.wee.
 
Thanks 2door. I did shorten the chain so there is some slack but not too much. I'll ty it without and see how she does.
 
Welcome to the forum, Toothy.

Not knowing the history of the bike, I would run at least one, maybe 2 tankfulls (or basically one 1 gallon gas can's worth) of around 24:1 through it as though it had come out of winter storage.
 
hey everyone, my bottom part of the chain is very very close to the top part of the chain when its is tightened, sholud i take it off and shorten it? i have a 36 tooth sprocket
 
motorized kodiak: if your chain has that much up and down movement you are looking at alot of problems. If you are sure that you will have enough rear wheel adjustment to make the chain work properly, definitely remove one link and re adjust the chain.

For both Toothy and motorized kodiak: the kit chain tensioners are notorious for slipping on the frame tube and going into the rear wheel's spokes, quickly ruining your day and possibly causing a crash.

Here is a thread concerning tensioners that are much safer. I linked to the style that I copied for my Atlas build, but I recommend reading the whole thread.
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.p...3&postcount=41

Also, I HIGHLY recommend NOT drilling any holes in the frame as some have suggested. A hole creates a weak spot that can easily propagate into a cracked frame.

Here is the whole thread http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=2063
 
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