Super tight clutch problem!!!!Need Input

B

buzzkill

New Member
I just finished putting together my first MB, everything seems fine , the only problem I have is the pressure it takes to pull the clutch, I actually broke the clutch lever right off the handle bar and now need a new one, is it normal for them to be this tight, I have to put a wreck on the clutch lever to get it to move and when it does move it does disengage so it is working, the one on my dirtbike is nothing like this.
 
Check out Norman's section. He has a post on adjusting the internal clutch spring. I would only do this after you deemed it necessary. Check the flower nut, clutch adjustment, clutch cable routing and lubrication of the clutch cable (inside the the sheathing) before you adjust the internal spring.
 
I've had two of these that had to have the clutch tightened up some at the internal spring. no surprise that you would see some tightened too much. not much of a procedure. make sure your cable isn't binding though, and that everything is nice and free to move. brnot
 
I'm a big guy, I can push my clutch lever in (the one on the motor) with my thumb but it takes just about all the push my thumb can muster. I'm just trying to give you a reference so you can decide if it's binding anywhere else before you adjust the internal spring.
 
I checked everything and greased the cable and it was still the same, I then loosened the interal spring and now it is working great, Thanks for the help.
 
I am having the same problem but i cannot figure out how to adjust it as norman says because when you try to loosen it all i do is unscrew the flower nut, if anyone could plz help me with this problem it would be great
 
The high tension clutch spring is inside the engine case between the clutch and chain sprocket. You gain access to the adjuster nut by removing the clutch cable stop that is threaded into the top engine case, underneath the carburetor. Put a medium sized flat blade screwdriver into the hole and turn the chain sprocket untill you feel the the screwdriver tip drop into a slot in the edge of the nut.
Hold the screwdriver securely in an effort to keep the internal nut from turning while you are turning the chain sprocket counter-clockwise with a pair of channel lock pliers. It may take 1/2 to 1 turn of the sprocket to get it good. You will have to experiment to get it just right.
Norman's tutorial shows all this clearly, only he tells folks to tun the sprocket nut clockwise to tighten the spring after the clutch has high miles on it.
 
Sorry for raising the dead. Can I use the spark plug wrench to turn the sprocket? Or does it have to be channel lock pliers.
 
userix said:
Sorry for raising the dead. Can I use the spark plug wrench to turn the sprocket? Or does it have to be channel lock pliers.
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i started doing that originally but it wasn't very good and seemed to be stripping, so i used my ratchet with the appropriate head and used that instead, worked much better.
 
instead of trying to turn the gear with a wrench, you can hold the screwdriver in the slot and roll your bike forward to lessen the tension, and backwards to increase it.

it's easier if you remove the plug so there's no compression.
 
Thanks for the tips, guys. I realized that using the spark plug wrench on the sprocket nut is not a good idea, because I eventually loosened the sprocket nut instead of loosening the tension in the primary clutch spring. My clutch came super tight. Needed superman strength just to compress the clutch lever. I managed to loosen it a couple of turn before the sprocket nut came undone. Now it's slightly better, but still is pretty tight. I am going to try the rolling bike trick tomorrow, since I don't have to take off the chain or sprocket cover. But the adjuster ring is starting to go out of line of sight past the stachion hole, making it difficult to get a flathead screwdriver to catch it. Is there any problems with loosening the tension adjuster too much?

Man, I don't know why my clutch is so tight. My hand is sore from test-riding today.
 
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i had the same problem, thought i was gonna break my cable or my hand. i read on here somewhere to take off the small clutch spring, the one between the the adjuster and the clutch arm. that worked great. much better. also there is bracket and pulley system that someone sells here. i think it might be norm, but i'm not sure. looks like that would help a bunch too.
 
dan1150 said:
i had the same problem, thought i was gonna break my cable or my hand. i read on here somewhere to take off the small clutch spring, the one between the the adjuster and the clutch arm. that worked great. much better. also there is bracket and pulley system that someone sells here. i think it might be norm, but i'm not sure. looks like that would help a bunch too.
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Al.Fisherman is the guy to talk to for the clutch roller. I've installed them on two builds and the clutch operation is now smooth and easy.
 
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