Starting to look like something

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wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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Thank's guys. I'm happy with the look. It's a lot more like the black 1914 board track racer pictures I used as a model. Black is not unique among old Indians but I wanted something a little different than the standard red.

If anyone is looking for saddle bags, there is now a plethora of ones like this on ebay from India for about $50 each. Shipping only took about a week. They would also make decent attache bags but come with buckles to hold them onto a horizontal bar. I'm pretty sure these weren't around a couple of years ago when I bought the others. These are nicer and cost less.
 

wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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I'm happy to report that bike performed reliably for the 2017 July 4th parade and seemed to be a big hit, though among the kids my mustache and glasses seemed to be more interesting. :)

To address my stalling issues I replaced the coil and shielded it from heat, pulled the petcock to check for blockage (looked clean), changed the spark plug, and swapped carburetors. I actually put the one that came with the motor back on instead of a slightly larger Mikuni. If I had to guess, the carb was the main issue. It started right up, idled smoothly and steadily. I do miss the crackle and pop of the old one but this one idles much slower than the Mikuni could.
2017 parade.jpg
 
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wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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Floorboards anyone?

I thought I'd added just about everything I could imagine but lately I've been thinking of making floorboards in the style of the original Powerplus (see pic) and I've already started gathering some materials. I've only ridden bikes with foot-pegs and not many of those but I'd thought I'd put this question out there: Floorboards on the old Indians, and other bikes for that matter, typically have a pivot to fold them upward. Why is a pivot needed? Obviously this adds some complexity to building them from scratch. I was planning a rigid setup but it occurred to me that there might be some practicality or even safety reasons for it.
indian floor board.jpg
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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They allowed a bit of forgiveness when riding over obstacles on the primitive roadways of the period, including small animals. The upward tilt was also an assist with objects as well as rider comfort....sticking a peg, pedal or foot board in a sweeping curve is about as quick a way as I know of to end an otherwise nice ride, even on a bicycle that's why experienced cyclists keep pedals level on all turns, drops & bumps. Swivel design just is more forgiving than rigid. Rick C.
 

wret

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Thanks Rick. Now that I look at it, that floorboard (and my current footpegs for that matter) does seem low enough to get hung up in a tight turn. I'm thinking a pivot in my floorboard design might not be that complicated after all. ;)
 

MEASURE TWICE

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I had mini bike foot pegs on my pedalless machine. It is legal off road only as OHV. These pegs folded up and would stay up. They had no spring just a detent to keep them up. They also folded straight up.

Later I purchased motorcycle foot pegs for dirt bike, used Hondas on Ebay. I wanted something that when wet would not slip. They were all metal and what was different also was that they had a spring to pull them back back after hitting something. They would fold upward and aft at around a 45 degree angle.

I was guessing the idea is that this angle was a best compromise for most situations. There is a stop of how far the peg would go, so my foot would not get caught between the frame and the folded back peg if I hit something.

For esthetic looks, whether it be pegs or a foot rest, see what you can do. A foot rest with the same folding action as the Honda dirt bike pegs, I'm not sure how exactly that would be done. It would use two attachment points or for ease, maybe just a very strong single attachment point.
 

wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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I had a nice long weekend to play around with my floorboards. Got started on Saturday and during the first weld I realized the argon bottle had run out. I then found that NOBODY has welding supplies on a weekend! Not wanting to give up two days I fired up the old Harbor Freight flux core welder. I had forgotten how bad flux core welding is. What a shame it's kind of an entry level machine. I think a lot of beginners would give up before learning to weld.

Any way, with sheer volume of metal I think I achieved some joints strong enough to hold my body weight, and with lots of grinding and sanding they pass as rustic looking. One thing I didn't plan on was the time I has to spend getting my shifter too work. The restriced travel length made it difficult to get a choice of upshift or downshift: only one or the other. After tinkering for hours with leverage and travel, I got it to work, as long as it stays adjusted...

The pivots, as predicted, added quite a bit of complexity and time but after our discussion, and the thought that as I get used to the bike my turns may get sharper and deeper over time, I thought it was the safe way to go.
 

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indian22

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Wret the floor boards turned out really great & from the photos quite functional; styled well to complement your wonderful bike's style and era. Rick C.
 

wret

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Thanks guys. I rode around a bit on them last night. Totally different feel. My feet feel much more planted and secure, less like balancing. This was a great upgrade.
 

wret

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Anyone else have dogs trying to block all their shots? The lab, Tango, actually recognizes my cell phone as an attention absorbing device. He often barks at me when I take it out, especially if I'm actually having a phone conversation.
 

wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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Seat springs

Thanks Mr. B for the inspiration. I've been eyeing some more elaborate seat spring arrangements for a while but Mr. B's set up pushed me over the edge. I need to age/distress it a bit but the springs from a brand new cruiser seat worked out great.
IMAG1862.jpg
 

wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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It's been a while since I've posted an update. Over the winter I sealed the tank and "aged" it a bit. I'm still not wholly committed to the barn-find look but it does have some advantages. Somewhere along the line I started obsessing about wiring and handlebar controls, thinking they looked cluttered, modern, and bulbous. It started when I ordered some neat little brass switch housings and didn't realize until I got them that some small holes in in the bars were needed to recess the switches. At that point it seemed running the wire inside the bars was a given and I added some dropout channels that simulate the mechanical controls of the original bikes. Not a fan of the yellow sheath in this application. I was thinking that some dark brown paint would simulate the asphalt sheath.
wire cleanup1.jpg
wire cleanup2.jpg
wire cleanup3.jpg
 
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PeteMcP

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Jun 27, 2017
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Can't figure out how I only just now came across this build thread. Glad I did though.
Inspirational recreation you've created Wret. Lots of attention to detail which, for me, puts this build way up there with the best I've seen.
Wish there was room for footboards like yours on my current build. From the outset I'd planned on concocting a pair, but I later discovered that clearing the crankcase overhang would result in them being too far outboard.
 
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wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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Thank Pete. I'd thought the same thing about the spacing width of the floor boards and the support required to put them way out there. I finally decided that since the foot pegs were out there anyway, why not use floor boards. I really like them for riding comfort and I don't think the position looks weird at all.

It is a wonder that seat came out as well as it did. It was my first foray into leather work and stitching it was one of a few times that I thought I was in over my head.