Starting New Build -- HELP! (Engine mounts & Sprocket adapter)

MysterySandwich

MysterySandwich

New Member
Hey guys, so my first build failed miserably, so I bought a brand new engine kit (mingsinternational from ebay) and a Madwagon single speed.

Last time the biggest problem was that the engine was not mounted correctly. So I wanted to buy the double ring mount from eBay

But I just know that the U bolts wont be flush with the frame... I have a drill with a sanding bit, but how do I accurately grind down the U bolt, just guess & check? Same goes for the rear mount...How do I get it to be flush?

Another thing is the hub adapter... I was looking at livefastmotor's small clamshell. I measured my hub to be 1in and 1in length. (By length I mean looking at the hub so its horizontal and measuring only where the diameter is 1" and not coning outwards.

Also is it necessary to buy new mounting bolts? They're quite expensive from SBP+shipping, and cant find them any where else.
 
even a pic wouldn't help me much, as I mount to the frame by looking to see what it needs to be tight & stable - each diff frame fits just a bit differently

I mount the rear with a bit of PVC and with studs EXACTLY perpendicular to the post - once I have that, I make the front work with whatever spacers it needs
 
crassius said:
I mount to the frame by looking to see what it needs to be tight & stable - each diff frame fits just a bit differently

I mount the rear with a bit of PVC and with studs EXACTLY perpendicular to the post - once I have that, I make the front work with whatever spacers it needs
Click to expand...
I completely agree with making the back mount dead on 90 to the seat post and dealing with front and carb intake so it's level after, but why do you put plastic in there?
 
two reasons - first, PVC will compress a bit so that if you are not dead straight it will self correct a bit - second, it give more gap between mount block & collar, so you can be sure you're tightening the mount rather than just pushing the collar into the mount block
 
THanks for the replies guys.

UPDATE: I emailed Livefastmotors and got this
"The inside diameter is 1.20" and it comes with shimms to allow it to fit on to an even smaller hub of about 1 inch. If necessary a person could make there own shimms out of copper pipe, pvc pipe etc. Its width is 1.5 inches"

The width is too much....dang =/
 
I don't see why this is a problem? As long as the u-bolt fits over the frame tube, It will tighten up. Shim it with a chunk of METAL pipe cut in half if the gap looks too big for your comfort.
(I usually don't bother)
 
MysterySandwich said:
Hey guys, so my first build failed miserably, so I bought a brand new engine kit (mingsinternational from ebay) and a Madwagon single speed.

Last time the biggest problem was that the engine was not mounted correctly. So I wanted to buy the double ring mount from eBay

But I just know that the U bolts wont be flush with the frame... I have a drill with a sanding bit, but how do I accurately grind down the U bolt, just guess & check? Same goes for the rear mount...How do I get it to be flush?
Click to expand...
Where did you get your Madwagon bike? From what I have seen they were a $99 bike back in early 2000 and not made since at least 2008?

I hope it works out for you, I truly do, I just find it odd a guy that 'failed miserably' on his first attempt and wants to do it right this time would start with a cheap possibly used department store bike (Target sold them back in early 2000 for $99).

As for the dual U front mount I used one once, didn't like it and just stick with the SBP muffler clamp style, you can bend the mount if need to make it flush.

Again best of luck with your 2nd try, it just pains me see you start again with a big bike issue right off the bat is all.
 
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