Sprocket mounting question

P

ProDigit

New Member
Ok,
So someone said not to get bikes with a pedal brake, is it because there's a bar in the way (for braking)?

Also,
I've seen bicycles where there's a black plastic cone (probably to keep the dust out) mounted on the axis (see pic below). Is that thing in the way; so should I avoid these bicycles?



Thanks!
(imagine that the spiky rectangle would be the rear wheel sprocket for the engine)
sprockett.png
 
for some wheels, you may need to get a file and make the hole in the middle of the sprocket a bit larger
 
There is no reason you can't use a bike with coaster (pedal) brakes. The arm that attaches to the frame from the rear hub sometimes will require a slight 'Z' bend to get it to clear the sprocket bolt heads. A bench vice and a hammer will do that easy enough.

As was stated above, if the center hole of the sprocket does not fit over the hub/dust cap then it can be opened up. A machine shop can do it but it can also be done with hand tools or a metal cutting burr in a drill or high speed grinder. Even a little Dremel tool will work, if you're patient.

Tom
 
2door said:
Even a little Dremel tool will work, if you're patient.
Click to expand...

That's what I had to do on my first bike. It was not pretty but somehow i managed to still have it centered on the hub. I reccomend taking it to a machine shop and have them open it up for you. Make sure they open it up wider than the actual hub's diameter so if it is not perfectly centered (which it should be if they know what they are doing) you can nudge it in the right direction before tightening the rag joint.

As far as the coaster brake arm goes, you can bend it but i prefer to use the tophat adapter from spookytooth cycles. http://spookytoothcycles.com/compon...age=vmj_ace.tpl&product_id=532&category_id=41
When I bought mine, there site said that the item is no longer available so i called them up and sure enough they still had plenty!

Ride safe!
-Chris
 
The sprocket center hole doesn't need to be perfect. It could be square and still work. What is critical is the outer diameter of the sprocket, the teeth. They must spin true with no wobble or be off center.

Yes, having a perfect hole can aid in centering the sprocket on the hub but you still need to check and attain concentricity at the outer edge or sprocket teeth for the chain to run smooth.

Tom
 
lowriderbike said:
You can adjust sprocket to your bicycle without creating any trouble for yourself. Visit the site www.toplowrider.com, here you will see different color in sprockets and different styles. You can choose the perfect one for your bicycle. If you like any then call at 888-666-2694.
Click to expand...

You mean to actually connect the motor to the existing rear sprocket ? (like on an MBK, on the right side instead of the left of the seat)?
 
Does anyone know if any of a Mountain bike 21 gear sprocket would fit this fixie sprocket?

If so, one could equip the bike with a mountain bike chain tensioner too.

From one example online, you'd be able to change the rear sprocket from 34T to 11T.
Of course, you'd probably want to use the 34T most of the time, and occasionally shift down to 30 or 26T, but not further...

$T2eC16FHJIYE9qUcNTrIBROmSwq8RQ~~60_1.JPG
 
If there's a hammer, there's a way. I have run both coaster brake and derailleur wheels on the back of my motor bike successfully. I currently have a derailleur rear wheel with a single speed kit. The kit contains a few cogs of different sizes, spacers and a tensioner. I was able to use the kit without having to mount the tensioner.
can0351.jpg
 
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