Special throttle cable design (part lawn mower part bicycle.

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by TheSignGuy, Aug 27, 2017.

  1. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Anyone ever convert the single gauge cable to fit a bicycle brake lever?

    This is the type of cable needed to power my Briggs but I don't like the shifter.

    $T2eC16J,!zcE9s4g0uSfBROGjyyBqQ--60_3.JPG

    These tend to be a bit tight on the pull handle so looking for a solution around to make it so a bike brake lever can pull it and return to its lower position

     
  2. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    What you could do is replace the throttle cable with bicycle brake cable and lever.

    Or extra long throttle cable, the braided wire-type.

    Throttle levers are aplenty.
    You could even use motorcycle-style twist throttles.
    It's a matter of personal preference.
     
  3. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    One small problem with that, you see the end of the tip on that throttle photo? It's designed to fit only that small bent end tip and a throttle stop screw won't fit into this hole the governor arm is very narrow on a 80302 model Briggs 3HP.

    Unless the stop is
    welded butt end to the arm and a stoppers added.

    Looking to save a bit on last costs.


    If I use stock lawn throttle would be easier to pedal up-to 15mph and use it as a cruise control lever.



    I just got word on a late, a friend of mind introduced me to a new product that locks the rim in place at the drop outs which maintains chain and sprocket alignment as well as rear rim.



     
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    #4 5-7HEAVEN, Aug 27, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  5. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    You gave me an idea buy thin piece of aluminum or steel bend it over the arm pop a screw that fits and drill out hole in the bracket that allows a standard cylinder style cable and press it on not very effective bit won't hang up with a light weight spring.


    In addition, my carb runs a tad bit rich is this OK?

    no black smoke from exhaust but a tiny puff until warmed up but it smells gas fummy little bit.
     
    #5 TheSignGuy, Aug 27, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    Check the carb, obviously
    and the fuel system for leaks.

    You're getting close.

    Can't wait to see it run.:)
     
  7. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Neither can I "every time I go to home depot I get asked 50k questions by shoppers and 20k cyclist who get mad cause I have an engine lol."


    It's crazy I am having rack alignment issues that will need to be fixed before first test ride....

    Debating on using hardened steel or aluminium as the but has a tendency to move to an incentive position so will need extra leg support.
     
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    Is it the rack itself, or pulley-to-pulley alignment?

    JMO, I'd make sure the wheel pulley and wheel was right on.

    Then I'd ensure that the engine rack was square and solid.

    Then using whatever methods you choose, line up both pulleys.

    Then mount the engine with holes slotted side-to-side,
    for pulley adjustments.
     
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    "Debating on using hardened steel or aluminium as the but has a tendency to move to an incentive position so will need extra leg support."

    I don't understand what you mean.
     
  10. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    I meant non centered position, it's only the rack so a steel plate to the legs of the rack should fix the problem right up when I pull the rack by hand to the right with the bike going left it aligns up.

    It's only off by a few mm most likely 35mm since the WHIZZER sheaves 34mm across once the rack is pulled the whole assembly aligns up including this format:


    Rack rear legs to drop out upper legs (centered) when pulled/pushed.

    WHIZZER sheave to clutch pulley aligned perfect when legs to rack are centered.

    The racks at fault one of Electra Amsterdam's biggest flaws a poorly tow rated rear rack.

    Nicely designed according to a certain review online but is known for poorly designed racks.


    It's a quick weld one man fix but while it's being welded I will make sure by assisting the welder on applying force to make sure it's aligned so when I drop the belt on its a start and go type deal
    The only concern for belt specs is 68.8 belt length to 70.1 v belt

    The universal number for the 70in belt is 4L700...

    In theory the systems designed like an original motor power steering systems like a 72 318 Winnebago, there will be no tensioner and in order to maintain proper tension it must be replaced.
     
    #10 TheSignGuy, Aug 27, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    How will you install the belt and tighten it?

    Will you raise the engine to tighten the belt?

    It'd be much easier to install a tensioner or idler pulley.
     
  12. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Will have to cross that bridge when It comes in reference to tensioners it will not fit in the geometry off the bat if anything some where down the line the best bet is a worn tensioner from a Chrysler T&,C from a junkyard to supplement longevity.

    lighter tension is required in this application but must fall into spec as too much tension = warpage at the rear rack legs which will be fallowed by the throwing of the belt or even worse the belt flying off resulting in getting sucked into the spokes at 32.82 mph.


    I predict/ estimate that in this sudden failure 4-7 spokes will be shattered in the event of said belt failure.
     
    #12 TheSignGuy, Aug 27, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  13. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    Here's a simple question.....

    How will you install the belt and tighten it?

    To help prevent a thrown belt from getting into the spokes,
    run the belt thru a metal loop a few inches from the top of
    the engine pulley.

    Secure the loop to the engine.

    If the pulleys is thrown, the loop will help prevent
    the belt from dropping into the spokes.

    If the belt snaps, the loop won't stop
    the belt from dropping into the spokes.
     
    #13 5-7HEAVEN, Aug 28, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  14. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    That would work I was thinking of expansion teeth in the belt jumps it jumps on the shaft but not completely off...

    Anyway still going to need to finish the cut opening for the belt entrance...

    That's why tensioners not ready to be put in place.
     

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