Speaking of chains!?

[tyrslider]

I wadded up a chain today! I had my sprocket pretty true. Alignment seemed ok. It was low speed; seems like maybe it was a little loose.

Anyway has any one run w/out tensioner? I have no frame clearance issues. Seems like the tensioner is unable to align properly.

I also don't like that the rear sprocket is thinner than the front. Think I'll do a left side freewheel mod.

 

[paul]

the optimum set up is to not use the tensioner. the tensioner is to take out slop in the chain. if you have no slop no need for the tensioner

 

[tyrslider]

Excellent!

 

[Saddletramp1200]

I never use the thing. I like the concept, used them on racing dirt bikes for years. There not a viable piece of the kit for me. Steel against plastic for me is not a good choice. Cruiser, myself, and other members choose not to use the things if we can.

 

[tyrslider]

Thanks again!

 

[Saddletramp1200]

Ahh, the mother hen is comming out in me The most deadly part of these bikes is the drive chain. You have steel rotating at hundreds even thousands of rpm's right at the calf of your leg. Because they don't have teeth don't mean they can't hurt you real bad! I like to keep my left leg forward of the chain. That means my left foot is always forward with the chain side and my right peddle to the back. These "chain guards" are not that strong! Look at your chain before you ride! You need two legs to walk. These stock chains are alright, but still junk. BEWARE, @ 30 + mph it's not a game.

 

[tyrslider]

Pretty sure it loosened (streched) up on my ride. Slow speed clutch engagement jolted chain enough to pop it off. I stuffed a new (< 1000 mi) chain into my Duc 650 pantah motor @ about 70mph once. Your Right! Its No Joke!

 

[tyrslider]

Somewhere I read of using bmx/track chain for drive chain. Now I can't find it. Anyone know where that is?

 

[2door]

The 415 chain that comes with nearly every kit just didn't cut it for me. Out of the box the 415 chain had a twist to it that caused it to ride weird on the entering side of the engine sprocket. I rode the bike like that and didn't have any trouble but it just looked odd. The chain seemed to run smooth, as smooth as I would expect with a 2 cycle engine but after the first twenty miles I replaced the chain with Morse-Warner 41 chain, pre oiled it by submerging it in light oil and installed it, with a skate board wheel tensioner. I was amazed at the difference. The noise level dropped dramatically and the chain runs smooth and steady at any speed. The 415 used to jump some.
As for the need for a tensioner; the only reason they would be necessary is to give you some adjustment after the chain begins to wear. If you have a bike with long slots in the rear dropout and can take up the slack as wear lengthens the chain, good for you. If you have little or no adjustment at the rear wheel then the tensioner is a good idea. It might take a few miles but roller chain does wear and it will need to be tightened. Another thought about the tensioner you might consider and most guys will agree with me is the need to secure it to your chain stay by some additional means other than the clamping method. I drilled completely through the tensioner bracket and bike frame ran a grade 8, 8-32 allen head screw with a lock nut to keep the bracket from wrapping into the spokes. (don't laugh, it happened in the first fifty feet, and I had the bracket tight) I don't like plastic against steel either but the polyureathane wheels used on skate boards are some tough little puppies and mine has shown no signs of wear after sixty five miles. It runs quiet and smooth and I'll continue to use it until I come up with a better idea.
Good luck and easy ridin'
Tom

 

[tyrslider]

Good Ideas! Thanks! That kit chain was made of caramel and chewing gum. I had less than 10 mi on it and it stretched enough to come off! I don't think it was designed to propel humans. Much of the stuff we ride around on was made in China but designed (and qc'ed) in America, thus my made in China 1/8" bicycle chain appears to be stronger than that 415 that came w/ the kit. Time will tell. I turned my front sprocket to .120" thick and now have a bmx/track chain on there.

 

[corduroylion]

dude tramp, you just scared the **** out of me man. i was just drinking my coffee and eating my muffin pretending to work but ****, i just lost my appetite.

 

[corduroylion]

and PS... i was having chain problems too. i cut the chain to size and ditched the tention pullie too and now it works like a charm. all the pullie did was cause me a lot of probs and cussing.

 

[FileStyle]

here is what I did about the chain tensioner! and after miles and miles and miles I still have no problems! the chain is never tight or is it ever loose!

 

[Saddletramp1200]

Great job!!! where did you get the goodies?

 

[FileStyle]

just as with norm, it's a secret (hint) I used a tension style break arm and a skateboard wheel.

 

[Saddletramp1200]

After meeting with my legal staff (Willie the Wino) I havent a prayer of finding out where you got the goodies! Cost me two bottles of MD 20/20 and a Big Mac. His rates have gone up. Just as well I don't use them anyway. Ride safe Tramp.

 

[Norman]

I know how you did it! But I won't tell. Nice.
Norman

 

[frankz]

i just bought a 420 100 link motorcycle chain today ....snapped the stock one last night just getting motor broke in so hopefully this one from parts unlimited will last ......will let you know it wasnt too expensive hope its long enough will find out in the morning

 

[tyrslider]

I've been running bicycle chain and so far no significant stretch and about a third of the weight. An ounce of unsprung (wheels and rotating mass) weight is worth a pound of sprung (everything else) weight. Meaning that if you remove an ounce of wheel or rotating mass its like removing a pound somewhere else.

 

[tyrslider]

I kept thinkin' I recognized that part Fstyle1 and it just clicked. Either you can or can't a lever your tensioner. Very smart!