Schwinn Panther build

GoldenMotor.com
chainmaker

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
So my kindle doesnt like photobucket ill have to figure somthing better than fb to post pics.
Thanks to msrfan's help i picked up 2 older 3 hp briggs carbs on ebay for under 20.00 ( needing rebuilding) http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=121047598609
Info is kind of sketchy on this motor as i guess it is proprietary for John deere-go figure
But here are some of the specs I could find
displ.- 129cc 7.92ci
Bore 62mm 2.44 in
stroke 43mm 1.69 in
Compression ratio 6.4:1
Max hp 3.1hp@4000rpm
Max tourque 0.62 kg-m/3000 rpm - 4.48 ftq lbs/ 3000rpm

So what does all tbat mean? Not too sure myself just figured id post it so someone can chime in and give some opinions.
 
Last edited:
chainmaker

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
securedownload-3.jpeg

securedownload.jpeg

securedownload-1.jpeg

securedownload-2.jpeg

So I think I have the pics figured out with tbis mobile device.

First pic is the frame and 3.1 hp kawasaki flat head.

A pair of flojets from ebay that will be cleaned up. Same size used on briggs of similar..displ.

Intake manifold- cu.t from a set of extra bars. and flanges for carb and exhaust- needing
welding. 3/8 flat bar

And I checked the agk jack.xx.shaft to see if it wouldnwork fornthis motor.
 
Last edited:
chainmaker

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
Not too fond of that jackshaft- doesnt seem to belong there looks out of place. I may have to go the traditional type j- shaft. Ive got to get that manifold welded and get this motor up and running and see what it needs.

Edit- Im going to look some more into a set up like this
Msrfan posted this
 

Attachments

Last edited:
chainmaker

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA
Got the motor pulled apart . Did a minor port to clean up the casting in and out. Still on the hunt for some more info about this motor. It is so close to a 3 hp briggs im hoping some of the racing parts will be interchangable. Anyone a 3 hp briggs expert?
 

Attachments

MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,771
1,269
113
CA
On another thread I thought you said 2.25, but anyway I have totally torn both the 80202-0430 3hp Briggs 70's era cast white metal engine, and also 5S and 6S cast iron ones.

Interested in what you got in the picture, that carb. By the time I really started into working on these things, a carb looking like that must have been scrapped by some one in my family. If it is gravity feed that is nice as a tank above allows room to fit an engine on a frame you may not want to cut up and weld.

Post #63 page 7 has engine pics http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=7

MT
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,771
1,269
113
CA
Oh the most important thing I ended up doing was having a machine shop cut the valves and the valve seats back to the proper angles as on an old engine they can be really leaky. I used to believe that using valve grinding compound and lapping the valves could help, but only for very slight scratches is it good. When long term hours on an engine change the metal surface angles, cutting them is the only way to restore it.

The valve lapping actual actually makes the angles complementary which is just what is not wanted. The valve and the valve seat angle should be different, with the valve having a greater angle than the seat.

It is sort of like a knife on a flat surface. This equates to more pounds per square inch which seals better than a greater surface area.

It is only that if it is a small scratch or carbon build up it can be done but not too much as it can have more gain than loss if done to extreme. The guy told after the cutting the valves to not lapp at all or just one or two turns and that's it.

They also compensated the bottom of the valves by grinding away a slight amount so the valve timing stays the same.

The guy only charged me 20 dollars for the engine work, so I had two engines done at one time for 40 dollars.

MT
 
Last edited:
chainmaker

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
2,634
69
48
Ma USA

Attachments

2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Chain,

Are there any oil issues with mounting the engine at an angle? Do you have to overfill the crankcase or is there enough oil for the slinger to pick it up? It might not be enough angle to even consider but I'm just curious.

Tom
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,771
1,269
113
CA
The magneto I have is shaped a little different and has the same high tension wire to spark plug and the other wire I see that goes off the bottom of the screen and looks like it is soldered and heat-shrinked to another wire. That 2nd wire usually attaches to the movable part of the breaker points. The continued part of the wire goes to the kill switch.

Be extra careful not to bend that second wire where it comes directly out of the magneto as it is not stranded wire there. It is solid magneto winding wire and is brittle, especially with old age. I had to melt the epoxy to get a nub of wire to solder to and then use high temp red RTV to make a good strain relief. I used stranded high temp flexible wire and it is OK and probably better I will not break easily now.

Last there is one more wire that I am guessing maybe your magneto has or does not have for the way it may be designed. Maybe it is just not shown in the picture. Mine had an un-insulated stranded wire with a ring terminal on the end that comes out of the coil and attaches to one of the two bolts going through the coil laminations using an external star tooth lock washer.

MT
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,771
1,269
113
CA
2door said:
Chain,

Are there any oil issues with mounting the engine at an angle? Do you have to overfill the crankcase or is there enough oil for the slinger to pick it up? It might not be enough angle to even consider but I'm just curious.

Tom
Click to expand...
If assembled the oil slinger does like my 808202 0430 3hp Briggs, it does better than level at getting at the oil when it is tilted back some. I have about 20 degree tilt back. The only problem I thought could happen tilted back that much is that oil could try getting out the oil breather. It so far works fine.

Forward it does not as good as normal level, but I have seen at least two others tilt forward and have not mentioned of problems. There on this web site, I have to check again who.

What I saw on the way the bottom of the crank moved the oil slinger was that it spent move time in the oil toward the back of the crankcase and by the time it was moving forward past half way it was lifting the fork almost out of the oil. This is how I came to the conclusion that I did.

There was a picture up that shows a tilt forward but I think it said the engine was a Honda. Was I wrong?

MT
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,771
1,269
113
CA
So its not a Briggs your using it is the Kawasaki it seems. I looked at the electric diagram for the ignition on the Kawasaki from the link you gave and it does not use points. I guess that the flywheel magnet as it passes the magneto is all that sets the timing. In a way then there is no adjustment. The module that connects to the magneto, I'm not sure does it make it an electronic ignition?

Any other links for that Kawasaki Engine, and especially ones that give theory on how it operates would be interesting.

Looking forward to see it progress!

MT
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom