Schwinn OCC Chopper not a fun build.
- Thread starter Motoschwinn
- Start date
I went to the staton sight and everything makes sense, this would be a perfect setup for one of the bigger choppers. I have to modify Barry's mount (ebay) or build a new engine mount anyway due to the crankset sets so high in the frame. Lots of room for a jackshaft. I work 7 & 7 here in the gulf and can't wait to get home with all of these ideas, out of the three bikes that my son-inlaw bought I thought only one of them had room for motorizing due to the narrow frames with fat rear tires. This is the answer for the drive to the rear wheel.
Appreciate all the infor Russell and Ron.
Bill
Appreciate all the infor Russell and Ron.
Bill
Russell,
I am interested in building the same set up for the Schwinn Chopper as you have posted on your build. You did an awesome job with the jack shaft and I would like to replicate this for the OCC bike build that I am starting. Could you give me a list of parts and possible suppliers? It would also help if you could let me know what size sprocket went where. This is such a clean install.
Thanks
That info should be on this link
Russell,
I am interested in building the same set up for the Schwinn Chopper as you have posted on your build. You did an awesome job with the jack shaft and I would like to replicate this for the OCC bike build that I am starting. Could you give me a list of parts and possible suppliers? It would also help if you could let me know what size sprocket went where. This is such a clean install.
Thanks
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=21463
shorten the throttle and clutch cables to fit so there's not excess cable hanging all over the place. (there will be if you don't shorten them).
you will have to noth the rear fender for chain clearance, and also cut about 1/3 of the left side brake pad off for chain clearance. you'll have to modify the rear brake caliper for chain clearance also. I raised my caliper with spacers & i actually bent the caliper as well.
you'll have to make a custom pipe for the best fit.
you should add chain adjusters to the rear drop outs because the way the drop outs are, the torque from the engine chain will want to pull the rear wheel forward,
the chain adjusters will help hold the rear wheel from being pulled forward.
for the best look, make a custom tank.
the stock tank can be used, but they look hideous on the occ in my opinion.
the occ seats are terrible too, so for the best result, make a new seat post and put a more comfortable seat on it. the stock occ seat is VERY uncomfortable and makes the bike almost impossible to ride for more than 5 minutes.
chain alignment is an absolute must, especially with the aftermarket engine mount. once you drill those holes in the frame, you're committed, and if your measurements are off, the chain will never be aligned right.
the mount i used is slightly adjustable side to side, not sure if the one you got is or not, but the side to side adjustment is very minor.
you can buy chain links on e-bay cheap...like $5.00 for 15 links, you just have to search for them.
the stock rear caliper brake SUCKS, and will make it difficult to stop the bike.
I mean, it will work, but the stopping distance is terrible.
building an occ take a lot of planning and modifying.
i hope you didn't expect to just bolt the engine on and go.
the best advise i can give is to be patient, take the time to build it clean (hidden wiring, shortened cables, custom chain tensioner (mine is hidden), relocate the cdi to hide it, add an automotive spark plug wire and an ngk spark plug, high flow air filter, custom gas tank, better seat and add a front brake (if possible). my occ doesn't have a front brake and the forks don't have the bungs to mount a caliper brake to it (some did come with front brakes).
a 44 tooth sprocket on that 20" wheel (don't forget, the rear tire is 24 inches tall which will give you a little more speed) but you'll only get about 25 mph out of it. (depending on rider weight)
i have a 41 tooth on mine and i'm getting right at 30 mph (but i also built the custom exhaust, my carb has been re-jetted and i weigh 150 pounds).
i think the best sprocket for one of these is a 36 tooth.
here's what mine looks like.
currently i have the gas tank off because i decided to re-paint it AGAIN.
here's what it looked like with the tank painted black (the first paint job)
you will have to noth the rear fender for chain clearance, and also cut about 1/3 of the left side brake pad off for chain clearance. you'll have to modify the rear brake caliper for chain clearance also. I raised my caliper with spacers & i actually bent the caliper as well.
you'll have to make a custom pipe for the best fit.
you should add chain adjusters to the rear drop outs because the way the drop outs are, the torque from the engine chain will want to pull the rear wheel forward,
the chain adjusters will help hold the rear wheel from being pulled forward.
for the best look, make a custom tank.
the stock tank can be used, but they look hideous on the occ in my opinion.
the occ seats are terrible too, so for the best result, make a new seat post and put a more comfortable seat on it. the stock occ seat is VERY uncomfortable and makes the bike almost impossible to ride for more than 5 minutes.
chain alignment is an absolute must, especially with the aftermarket engine mount. once you drill those holes in the frame, you're committed, and if your measurements are off, the chain will never be aligned right.
the mount i used is slightly adjustable side to side, not sure if the one you got is or not, but the side to side adjustment is very minor.
you can buy chain links on e-bay cheap...like $5.00 for 15 links, you just have to search for them.
the stock rear caliper brake SUCKS, and will make it difficult to stop the bike.
I mean, it will work, but the stopping distance is terrible.
building an occ take a lot of planning and modifying.
i hope you didn't expect to just bolt the engine on and go.
the best advise i can give is to be patient, take the time to build it clean (hidden wiring, shortened cables, custom chain tensioner (mine is hidden), relocate the cdi to hide it, add an automotive spark plug wire and an ngk spark plug, high flow air filter, custom gas tank, better seat and add a front brake (if possible). my occ doesn't have a front brake and the forks don't have the bungs to mount a caliper brake to it (some did come with front brakes).
a 44 tooth sprocket on that 20" wheel (don't forget, the rear tire is 24 inches tall which will give you a little more speed) but you'll only get about 25 mph out of it. (depending on rider weight)
i have a 41 tooth on mine and i'm getting right at 30 mph (but i also built the custom exhaust, my carb has been re-jetted and i weigh 150 pounds).
i think the best sprocket for one of these is a 36 tooth.
here's what mine looks like.
currently i have the gas tank off because i decided to re-paint it AGAIN.
here's what it looked like with the tank painted black (the first paint job)
anyone figure out how to remove that bearing shaft in the pedal bearing assembly? I cant get that thing out for the life of me.
Are you turning the right way? Most left side cranks nuts are counter-clock-wise threaded (backwards from normal). Go to a bike shop and borrow their spanner wrench to loosen the outer nut first.
They will also be able to give you a heads up on things to try.
Good luck!
Mark
They will also be able to give you a heads up on things to try.
Good luck!
Mark
hello everyone! could anyonyone tell me where i might be able to get the plans and parts list for the 5speed jackshaft setup
I'm in the process of building one myself only problom I keep having is my chain keeps popping off the sprocket idk why for sure my sprocket is strait but the motor not so much but every time I think I have it straight it still pops off I'm working on getting a custom motor mount for it hopefully that helps but it's definitely not fun sometimes it's like once you thank you have everything right and ready to ride something else doesn't go right
But I do have another question can I shorten my pipe that my carburetor slide onto and if so does it have to be a perfectly straight cut
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