Schwinn Locking Springer Fork

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LAWNMOWERMAN556

New Member
I have a 1953 panther frame and I would like to get a schwinn locking springer fork for it.I would like to learn about the locking springer fork befor I buy one so I do not get the wrong one for my frame.Anything that anyone could teach me about this would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Bust out the credit card they get pricey.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHWINN-PHA...736?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d090d5610
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-VINTAG...911?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7d9fe0af
You might have better luck networking to get one at a better price. Try thecabe.com ratrodbikes.com try to get one as complete as possible those little AS bolts in nice shape go for big cash. There was a set of those forks totally redone powder coated real nice chrome and correct bolts that went for 399.00 last year ( thought I had a chance with max bid of 200...lol)
there are other options as well if you are going to motorized it all the correct vintage stuff isnt going make much of a difference in value of the bike to anyone but you,
There are the felt Jerry springers ( would need to have tube re-done)
Monarks hit up Venicemotorbikes for those he is close by.
If you can find them still the felt monarchs are nice ( same tube issue)
While you are thinking forks it's a good time to think front brakes if you want it looking clean you will need a stud welded on for a drum or a disc adapter or tab welded on. Personally for the vintage look and anti-lock type braking I like drums but the disc has instant stopping power
 
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you dont necessarily need a stud welded on for a drum brake. Some drums come with clamps, or you can make your own. I made a clamp to go around the shock forks on my ht bike. For my new build, I'm using Suzuki motorcycle forks, and they come with holes that bolts can be threaded into. My clamp wouldn't fit around the fork, so I straightened it till it was flat and bolted one end to the brake arm and the other to the hole on the fork. All it takes is a little creativity to avoid welding.
 
If you are going to use a monark style you will definitely need a stud welded on Or come up with another way to attach the braking arm in the correct placement,otherwise the forks will bind up while braking, spring forks work totally different than a suzuki fork. like I said with the Schwinn style if you want it clean looking go with a stud.
 
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Thanks for the information!I know that I want to use a Schwinn locking springer fork.I like the idea of the fork locking like a motorcycle.What I would like to know is there a difference in forks such as his or hers or heavyweight, middleweight and lightweight?Does anyone know when they started using them and when they stoped using them?Is one year better made than any other?
 
If you actually want the locking fork to be able to 'lock'?, you need to be sure that you have a 'locking fork frame' that has a small tab inside the steerer tube for the locking mechanism to contact with. ;)
 
since he chimed in it was Norm who came up with the stud idea for the monarks a couple years ago as far as I know. Try the Schwinn purists over at thecabe they can prob give you all the specifics that you asked about the forks.
 
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Thanks for the information on the swap meet!!Before I buy one I would like to learn if they are all the same or are there any differences such as his or hers or heavyweight, middleweight and lightweight?
 
I think there might be a difference between 'his & hers' frames!
But it's easy enough to compare both with all the other frames & forks that will be there that day!
(just bring a tape measure). ;)
 
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