rim painting

Chopperdude4

Chopperdude4

New Member
what would i need to do to paint the rims of my OCC? Would i have to put anything on it to make the paint adhere?

Thanks!
 
A light sand to take off the shine and then clean, then paint. And if the rim is still together you can slice drinking straws lengthways and fit them to the spokes..... works a treat
 
Harry That is GENIOUS. Seriously drinking straws why didnt I think of that? Hahaha Ive been holding off on painting my rims because its such a huge job masking spokes.....now I have my sunday project, a RIMJOB! LOL Great idea
-Dan
 
Saw over at RatRod.com...cardboard cutouts to cover most of the spokes. left about an inch or so visible where the spoke meets the rim. Covered that with painters tape...
 
Funny, I was just thinking about how you'd paint a rim, powdercoating sure seems like a good way to do it, wish I had a PC gun and oven so I could do it myself.
 
The straw idea is by far the best, eaisest and neatest way to paint a rim. Unfortunatley i saw it elsewhere and cannot claim that idea as my own. Just passing on a great tip...... lol @ rimjob
 
rohmell said:
So, essentially, rim painting is for those who use coaster and/or drum brakes?
I would figure that caliper brakes would take the paint right off where the pads contact the rim?
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Ive thought exactly the same myself, not that i run rim brakes, but have wondered. Ive seen many people with rim brakes that paint their rims and it seems ok. At least in photos. I would guess letting the paint totally cure and harden would be the key.
 
LS614 said:
Funny, I was just thinking about how you'd paint a rim, powdercoating sure seems like a good way to do it, wish I had a PC gun and oven so I could do it myself.
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check out go kart racing shops, the one here dose powder coating on go kart frames and parts. said they would do a bike frame for $35.
 
Don P said:
check out go kart racing shops, the one here dose powder coating on go kart frames and parts. said they would do a bike frame for $35.
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Hey Don,, Can you give me a name and number of that shop ? I have a couple frames needs powdercoated. Seriously here in Ohio could cost up to 80-100 bucks. .trk
 
'I made a small jig for splitting 1/4" tubing (found somewhere on the web) and it sure saves time when doing the drinking straw thing. Splits them quick! Think of a pyramid with a hole drilled from the tip top to the center of the bottom. Think that you make 2 pyramid pieces of "bread" Then sandwich a razor blade in the middle of the 2 wooden "sides" just so that a small corner pokes into the hole. Slide the straw into the bottom of the pyramid and pull it out the top hole. The razor blade cuts the tube as it is pulled through the hole. Sounds complicated, but it is easy. I'll post a pic tomorrow
 
If you do decide to paint instead of powdercoating, scuff the rim thoroughly with scotchbrite and spray a coat of Bulldog adhesion promoter onto the rim. When dry, you can paint. Bulldog helps the paint to really stick, and is available in rattle cans and quarts. Old trick from when I built show cars.
 
one detail that I noticed was missed here if the rim is aluminum or chrome plated you should spray a good coat of zinc or acid etch primer prior to painting .
 
dirtyoldcrusier said:
Hey Don,, Can you give me a name and number of that shop ? I have a couple frames needs powdercoated. Seriously here in Ohio could cost up to 80-100 bucks. .trk
Click to expand...

I own a custom powder coating shop in Ohio & I would strip, pretreat & powder coat a frame & fork set for $60.00 plus the cost of powder. Color pricing is $10.00 per stage & most are a single stage application.

You can find examples of my work & equipment on my Facebook site. Feel free to call me if you have any questions.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/PowderCoat-CustomWorks/222765537741055
 
rohmell said:
So, essentially, rim painting is for those who use coaster and/or drum brakes?
I would figure that caliper brakes would take the paint right off where the pads contact the rim?
Click to expand...

I have a 26 inch rim that has Black Anodized Paint or some black coloring but it does not continue onto the sides of the rim where the rim is meant for shoes to contact. The sides are also with about 5 groves that go in the circular direction of the rim. I suspect it is like for better grip in wet conditions. Painting the sides here would fill in the grooves so it would not be a good idea.

I do know that power coat is really another good adhering type of coating, heck it is baked, and as long as it is treated right before the powder is baked it is real good. I did a little of that at a shop for a monthly fee. I am not affording that now though. I even took my RF Wagon with battery and inverter to do some dremeling parts out behind my apt so I would not be on the S list:) Maybe there is some active noise cancelation devices I can use, but for now that is the manager!

I tried to use the sand blaster on the frame of mine while I was a member at the shop, but the size of the frame would not fit it the chamber that they had there. I suppose I could take it to the coast where I windsurf gales in CA. The beach sand blasts. I can tell my old truck before I ridded of it after 230K mi had the windshield a fine dullness. I'm not sure which would win out over the media blast. Would it be the moist salt air, jokingly!
 
NewOrleansFlyer said:
'I made a small jig for splitting 1/4" tubing (found somewhere on the web) and it sure saves time when doing the drinking straw thing. Splits them quick! Think of a pyramid with a hole drilled from the tip top to the center of the bottom. Think that you make 2 pyramid pieces of "bread" Then sandwich a razor blade in the middle of the 2 wooden "sides" just so that a small corner pokes into the hole. Slide the straw into the bottom of the pyramid and pull it out the top hole. The razor blade cuts the tube as it is pulled through the hole. Sounds complicated, but it is easy. I'll post a pic tomorrow
Click to expand...

Old thread, but still like to see that straw cutting jig. :D
 
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