replacing studs, what do I need?

MOST of the time the stud will snap at or close to the case hole.
Click to expand...

Yup. Happened to me with the stupid m6x1.00. Good for the rear mount, but I redrilled and rethreaded for 5/16 bolts for the bottom. Excellent fix to do, just gotta go slow and careful.

Al, if I mill the head, how does that extra space still allow for the piston to hit the spark plug? Eventually there has to be a point where it won't even hit it, right?

And do I have to break it in again if I do mill?
 
kevinkrg6 said:
Yup. Happened to me with the stupid m6x1.00. Good for the rear mount, but I redrilled and rethreaded for 5/16 bolts for the bottom. Excellent fix to do, just gotta go slow and careful.

Al, if I mill the head, how does that extra space still allow for the piston to hit the spark plug? Eventually there has to be a point where it won't even hit it, right?

And do I have to break it in again if I do mill?
Click to expand...

I have never milled one that I had the piston hit the head, although I've had to add a extra head gasket to keep the compression ratio down. We're not talking about but a few thousands if that much. ONLY take enough off so you can see shiny new surface. I guarantee that you will see it the first time you rub the head against the sandpaper. If you have stock studs/nuts you can wait till it blows a gasket, I suspect that it would do that sooner or later. Although some haven't. On my first build and thinking that there was some sort of QC, I blew a head gasket 5 miles from the house. Limped home...still have the gasket as a reminder. This all took place before joining the forums.
 
Is an nt carby supposed to use an O ring where the carby goes on the manifold?
The cns uses a seal type thingy, but nothing came with this nt...

I'm concerned that an O ring that is not stiff enough could get sucked into the engine???

If someone IS running an O ring, what size is it?

Tnx RC


...and that is totally different than the OP isn't it... Oops!
 
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yikes. Roger that. Adding head to checklist.
I've got some 240 sandpaper & about 5 days before the rest of my hardware gets here. My funds are just about dried up for right now, so I'm hoping RVT will work for replacing the head gasket....
 
RTV is NOT good for a headgasket.

If the head and top of barrel are lapped well, a bit of thin garlock could work fine.

rc
 
dang.
well, at least I know in advance. I'll have to put it on the checklist for the first round of tuneups & repairs.
 
rustycase said:
Is an nt carby supposed to use an O ring where the carby goes on the manifold?
The cns uses a seal type thingy, but nothing came with this nt...

I'm concerned that an O ring that is not stiff enough could get sucked into the engine???

If someone IS running an O ring, what size is it?

Tnx RC


...and that is totally different than the OP isn't it... Oops!
Click to expand...

First, there is no "O" ring supplied with the kit. This is a mod as the union is prone to have a intake leak. Next, I don't remember the "O" size, if you have a NAPA store around they will have a assortment set (you can buy just 1). And, just take the carburetor with you, find a gasket will fit. OH and with a proper fit the "O" ring won't get sucked in, the "O" ring is the same size as the intake itself.

Using RTV as stated above won't work.
 
so the hardware came in today & I started to change the studs out when I noticed something about the original studs. The rear mounts had 4 washers on one side, & 4 LOCK washers on the other side.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer already, but would there be any reason for using all flat on one side & all lockers on the other? Or is this just one of the fun quirks of Chinese quality control?
 
anim8r said:
so the hardware came in today & I started to change the studs out when I noticed something about the original studs. The rear mounts had 4 washers on one side, & 4 LOCK washers on the other side.

I'm pretty sure I know the answer already, but would there be any reason for using all flat on one side & all lockers on the other? Or is this just one of the fun quirks of Chinese quality control?
Click to expand...

Flat against the bolt head, lock washers just before the nut. I use no other washers. The idea is to keep the nut from coming loose. If you have the plate, a washer, a lock washer, then the nut, the first flat washer has a possibility to spin...use of lock nuts are best.
 
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lol Alf scrambled that one.... :-)

Always use a flat washer against aluminum.
Use a lock washer if the assembly will be subject to vibration.

1st part
flat washer
lock washer
nut

:-)
 
SBP offers great products, my bike should be a cover bike for their products. I bought that same hardware kit. After so many miles some of the hardware became stripped and or broke. However, I ride my bike rough. Go to the hardware store and go with grade 10 or higher as I did. Do it once, do it right.

Just my 2 pennies :)
 
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