questions for the master mechanics...

deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
I am having more trouble than you can shake a stick at. (mamma's expression).

I have all my motorized bikes in the hospital. All of them have carb problems. I just can't seem to make them work. I can get both of them to start run a second then die.

questions..

1. I took the intake manifold off my WW and destroyed the gasket. Those things cost more than the WW did so here is my question. Can I coat both pieces with forma gasket and stick them together and get the air tight seal I need.

2. Why would a carb not let you pull gas through with the primer. I did check all the lines and move them around to make sure I didn't have it hooked up backwards. Actually I did that several times. It just sucked air, the supply line from the tank was empty.
 
both are possible. the line is new but I got it pinched last night. And the primer is not new. I'll take a look thanks.
 
Okay it was a crimp in the gas line probably a leak as well in the same spot. Thanks joe. It's getting gas but I probably flooded it this time since I tried to start it at full throttle. It likes to start at about half throttle. Either was it is getting gas now so it will be a throttle or air leak issue either of which is no big deal now.
 
WEll it still won't start but it has gas and fire so it's something small. I moved that carb so many times I'm thinking its the gasket under the carb. I have to buy some gasket maker for the WW manifold so I'll pull this carb and seal the paper gasket under it. If that doesn't work I will have to rethink it.
 
deacon, when my friends and I played with hot VW's, my friend used Silicone Blue instead of his carb gaskets. No gaskets, just the Silicone Blue. Since intake gaskets were dirt cheap, I used the regular gaskets.

If you're not pulling gas from the tank, maybe your engine wasn't meant to suck gas from a remote location. On some engines, the tank has to be higher than the engine.
 
5-7, Weed Wacker, not Volks Wagon , Thats too funny, rotfl I have waited years, to say that. Can't remember why...
 
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No! He was saying his buddy with a VW used the silicone, and deacon should use the silicone for his WW.

I know you knew that.:D

I was thrown by the WW for a few days meself....:ride:
 
Okay update on the WW... I got it firing after using the silicone as a gasket and making sure I had a carb that would actually put gas to the engine. It ran about two minute then promptly shook itself to pieces lol.

Now about the chainsaw. It was the one that wouldn't pull gas, but it had been for a few month. Joe was right the line was crimped and probably leaking air.

I got the fuel to the plug and I have fire but it still wont run. So I put on the carb from the WW that had just shook it apart. So I know the carb is good but nothing happened. It ran last night with gas in the plug hole. Now I am thinking I have an air leak before the cylinder. A lot of the intake stuff is plastic so tomorrow, I'm going to remove it from the bike and sit down and strip it. If nothing else I will learn how it is made so if I get another one I will know.
 
Deacon after you get done stripping it you too can have one of these:

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I got it out of the 25 or 30cc craftsman DOA WW I bought. I had a fun time stripping it down after she wouldn't start for me, The picky little SOB. Jeez I gave her spark, fuel and lube and still no love. Seems They have to have compression too... Funny a broken ring just threw it all out the window for me.
 
alas poor poulan I knew it well.....

I am going to autopsy the poulan 33 saw today in the name of science. I want to know why it won't run, even after I have the carb working and the spark going. It will run with gas down the plug hole so it has to be an air leak somewhere.

I am going to take it off the bike and start cutting away bits of the case till I can see how it all goes together. If I can save the patient fine, if not poor poulan will have given his all in the furtherance of my education.

I also have the 42 saw to do the same with. I have no engines and no working bikes so I get to start from scratch. I'm not even sure that I will use any of my current bike frames for the next one.

First decision is an engine. Since the WW came apart the same way all the others have, I might just move back to the chainsaw engine. If I can figure out a reasonably efficient mount for the WW, I would kind of like to go with it. Then again I have drive wheels already made up for the chainsaws as well. See my quandary. What's a Mutha to do.
 
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Deacon, Did you check to see if your pulse hole is blocked? Its located usually between the manifold and the carb. Check your gaskets to see if its on the right way or blocking the pulse hole.
 
Deac, this may sound stupid but did you try resetting the L ans H screws. My WW wouldn't start after a good cleaning. Then I when i adjusted the carb it started up.
 
Ah the pulse hole. Yes I sealed it off by mistake. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Never carve up a patient with a blocked pulse hole. LOL.
 
I opened the pulse hole again and it still won't start with two plugs. The spark plug is wet when I check it and both carbs work on other engines. If it didn't run with fuel poured in the plug hole I would have a lot more things to look at.

I honestly dont get it and yes the fuel tank is vented. The fuel is getting to the cylinder it just isn't burning it for some reason. It has a hot plug and it runs on that gas down the pipe I sure as heck am lost.
 
Those little Walbro carbs are a pain. There is a bunch of little parts under the two covers, one side is the pump and the other side is the same as the float bowl, it is a diaphragm system when it needs gas the diaphragm is pulled in like the float. The engine should not flood as easy as you are saying. As the pulse comes from the crankcase it pushes on the diaphragm and that moves the gas, when the suction from the crankcase pulls the diaphragm that is how it is refilled. There are two small flaps that check the flow in one direction. The gas is moved over to the other side of the carb to another Diaphragm and this is the one that keeps fuel over the main jet, there is actually a small check valve at the main jet to keep the fuel moving in one direction, it is tiny and hard to clean. NEVER get any gasket sealer of any type near a pulse carb it is death. The two settings on the side should be at one turn to start with, and only 1/4 turn in each direction from there. If you want, I can try and photo a carb and explain how the parts work. Hope this helps. Have fun, Dave

PS: Make sure the pulse hole is clear all the way to the crankcase, and only gaskets. You can make them just make the hole's correct.
 
I think shoes is going to win this one. She mentioned that the muffler might be clogged and my old squished up brain remember the muffler having parts blown off it at the same time the bike stopped running. I think she is right and I have no idea why I didn't connect the two things before she mentioned it to me. I'm going to pull the muffler tomorrow and see if it will start if so I'm going to put the big carb back on it.

It would be nice if the poulan ran it has the two inch drive wheel and goes pretty good. I'm going to set the homelite up with a 3/4 inch drive wheel that might make it to an inch or so with jb weld on it. I'll let you know who the winner is.

yeah on the carb I took one apart once. Never again.
 
I hate to say this Deacon but if its not the pulse, could it be a stuck ring? You mentioned that it worked on 2 different motors but won't work on this one. I've experienced hard starting or no starting when I've stuck a ring. The only way to find out is removing the cylinder.
My other option is a bad spark plug. A bad plug can still have spark. I don't know now many times I've changed a plug on one of my 2 cycle motors even though the old one still had spark and that was the answer.
 
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