Question on china back motor mount

[HoopteeRider]

Im not happy with the back mounting block for the seat post on my Flying Horse kits When i place it on straight (pipe in the saddle with no gaps top or bottom it will rock up and down between engine and mount block, plus I cant seem to get a good level on the carb with the stock maifold. Can the back of the mounting block be ground down to a angle to raise the front of engine and bring the carb closer to level whilst keeping the pipe seated in the straddle??? I dont want to buy a z bend manifold and have a nice CNS carb out on this long branch shaking worst than a TV antenae in a hurricane but i dont want a lean running engine due to carb level either!

 

[BarelyAWake]

While changing the angle on the rear mount spacer block is easy enough - be aware that the more it's altered, the less the mounting studs are at the correct orientation. You can get away with a little, but only a little and only if you use the steel clamp and not the cast one that's available with some kits (the steel one can bend a lil to take the new angle).

But... it's sketchy and I'd recommend not changing the angle of the rear mount & modify or make a custom intake manifold instead. The "extended" manifold that comes with the CNS is a lil overkill and it's not needed on all builds - check to see how far off your stock intake is, it might fit.

I changed the angle on a stock intake by cutting a slot in it, bending to suit, and then welding - not the best way for performance - but exactly the same method they used to make it heh

 

[moronic_kaos]

The other thing is that rear spacer is hollow. I tried to use one to make some other sort of custom mount (don't ask) and filed it down 1/4 inch where the studs go though (I wanted a perfect rectangle shape).

The thing broke apart as if it had the consistency of a Cheeto. Literally, it just kinda crunched in my hand.

Since the back end is open, I'd suggest getting some sort of filler before doing that.

EDIT:

it will rock up and down between engine

What?

 

[HoopteeRider]

Yea it rocks up and down like granny in a swing. thats the back of the mounting block and the flat back of the engine casting where the studs meets the holes through the mount block, like its round, Its either the engine casting or the block itself not sure which but i can see daylight in the middle between engine and mount block. i am thinking that this is so not to put pressure on the gasket area at where the engine casings halves come together and keep the pressure on the area around the stud itself. BUT it is a cheeto and im afraid ill break it for sure. I could fill the hollow mount with some JB weld? I sure wish i had an aluminum tig welder

 

[CoastalCruiser]

Can you post a pic to illustrate your dillema?

 

[moronic_kaos]

The back of the motor is round?

That's terrible!, and something I haven't seen before.

I'd say figure out for sure its the motor and not the spacer (set the spacer on something absolutely flat). Then, fill that back with JB weld and give it a day to cure, so you've got a solid object to work with. Then just grind it little by little until it fits best.

Even if it doesn't have superman strength (JB weld), the stock spacer wasn't really all that beefy to begin with and I've never heard of them breaking.

 

[HoopteeRider]

this shot of the mount looking down you can see the flashlight shining through but does look like a poor casting of the mount, in any case i feel that with the post seated like it is the carb should sit level or at least closer than this. This is just sad. notice the angle of the air filter if i were to level the carb by raising the front of engine there would be a 1 inch gap under the mount.





BTW I havnt even put gas in this yet just want to get it right first. If the carb will run like this then ill go with it and break it in or break it