Problem with electronic Speedometer

ailgup

ailgup

Member
Hello, I am trying to use a Schwinn electric cycling computer/ speedometer. It works fine until i start the motor and then the screen blanks out. It says there is an electrical interference,and to move the sensor. I moved it to the back wheel and it still had the same problem. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and how to solve it.

chris
 
Everyone has that problem, lots of people will tell you to buy special sparkplug boots and wires,but heres how i did it: i mounted the sensor on the front fork,then i ran the wire straight up from the front fender to the speedometer,keep the speedo sensor wires away from brake cables and the bike frame and the cdi box and away from sparkplug or other wires.
Your goal is to get the speedo or speedo wires as far in front of the bike as possible.
 
okay i will try that i also have the white wire coming and just ziptied to the frame should move this or the CDI?????? chris
 
Do what Cabin Fever suggested. Keep the speedomoeter head as far from the engine ignition components as possible. That includes the clutch cable, throttle cable and kill switch wires. If possible mount the CDI on the seat tube instead of the down tube. Keep the speedometer away from the RF signals generated by the ignition. You didn't say if your speedo is wired or wireless. The wireless units are more susceptible to electrical interference than the wired type but the same advice applies. Keep as much distance as possible from the speedo and the engine. Good luck.
 
I had the sam prob ,the batterie that cam withit was cr#% I bought a ever-ready and it has worked sinse then (remember Chinese stuff is the cheapest stuff and it spends months on a ship at sea) so thats what happened to me later Bob
 
Apparently, the ignition wire (CDI to spark plug) is junk on these kits. I had the same problem and put a clip-on ferrite bead near the speedometer to block the RFI from the engine's ignition system. That fixed the problem about 90% of the time. However, based on advice received form others on the forum, I also replaced the stock spark plug wire with an inexpensive automotive ignition coil to distributor cable (a spark plug wire would work as well). This fixed the problem and may be all you need to do. The ignition cable was less than $10 and was long enough that I could cut it in half - ending up with two ignition wires. Try replacing the ignition wire first - turn the existing wire CCW to disconnect from the DCI, turn the new wire CW to connect to the CDI. If that doesn't work, try shielding the speedometer wire and/or adding a clip-on ferrite bead from RadioShack.
 

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i tried the ferrite bead and it would fork about 10% of the time, but it had to be held out away from wires especially the kill switch wire. I was wondering if it could be coming from the kill switch but i saw in Earthman's bike the kill switch wire was close to the other wire and it had no problem. also i will try but how would you replace the wire i could find no way to open the CDI box it seemed molded shut???
chris
 
This works 100% of the time: pm me if anyone needs help...

Mount the sensor on the front fork, add small bracket to the front handle bars on left side (if you have a headlight bracket that will work too), now run the wire straight up to the bracket(bracket should be around 4"s from handlebars), run wire to speedo.

interference will come from the cdi,kill switch and wires,brake cables, and bike frame.
If you have a wireless one go buy a wired one for $10 at walmart.

Kill switch wires should be far to the right of handlebars.Speedo goes far to the left of handlebars.
 
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ailgup said:
i tried the ferrite bead and it would fork about 10% of the time, but it had to be held out away from wires especially the kill switch wire. I was wondering if it could be coming from the kill switch but i saw in Earthman's bike the kill switch wire was close to the other wire and it had no problem. also i will try but how would you replace the wire i could find no way to open the CDI box it seemed molded shut???
chris
Click to expand...

Don't try to open the DCI. It is sealed and doesn't need to be opened. The sparkplug wire can be removed by unscrewing it - twist it CCW. Screw the new wire in by turning it CW into the CDI.

The ferrite bead works best if the wire makes 2 or 3 loops through it. Just make a little coil of wire and snap the bead on all the loops. Keep the bead as close to the speedometer head as possible. Put 2 or 3 beads on if necessary.

Make sure the contacts between the speedometer and the handlebar mount are clean, and there is good contact. If the speedometer works when the engine is off, you are probably ok.

If the better sparkplug wire and beads don't work, you could try shielding the sensor wire. If all three don't work, you have a poorly designed speedometer - buy a different brand.
 

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Thank you Earthman i will go and get a new wire and try to shield the speedometer wire more especially where it comes in contact with the metal. Thanks for all the great advice!!!
chris

.sno.
"i wish my bike could do this!!!"
 
I had the same problem too.
My fix, I bought a Cateye Velo5 model CC-VL510/CC, no more problems ever, and its more accurate too I have checked it with my GPS.
You get what you pay for end of story, the Schwinn cost me $10.00 at wally world, the Cateye cost me $36.00. I just put that $10.00 Schwinn on my pedel bike and it works great.
 
PROBLEM SLOVED!!!!!!!
I went to Napa and i bought an old spark plug wire with a boot on it, the boot would not fit the spark plug, but that didn't matter i cut it in half screwed on the old boot, connected it to the CDI and it worked like a charm 100% thank you all who posted comments.I am keeping the ferrite bead on but i don't know if i still need it but i just am being safe.
chris
 
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I was having the same problem. I was planning on changing the plug anyway, so when I did that I changed the wire to. Worked like a charm! I didnt have to change anything else. I'd recommed trying this first easy six dollar fix. I used a NGK br6hs and got a good wire from the auto parts store.
 
mark880088 said:
I was having the same problem. I was planning on changing the plug anyway, so when I did that I changed the wire to. Worked like a charm! I didnt have to change anything else. I'd recommed trying this first easy six dollar fix. I used a NGK br6hs and got a good wire from the auto parts store.
Click to expand...


BTW fer folks that mebbe didn't pick up on it - an "R" in the plug's number stands for "resistor", it's designed to reduce/eliminate electromagnetic interference w/o power loss by regulating the discharge.

You can use a resistor plug or cap/wire with no ill effect - but don't try both ;)
 
BarelyAWake said:
BTW fer folks that mebbe didn't pick up on it - an "R" in the plug's number stands for "resistor", it's designed to reduce/eliminate electromagnetic interference w/o power loss by regulating the discharge.

You can use a resistor plug or cap/wire with no ill effect - but don't try both ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks, guess I should have added that.
 
deffinatly agree that it the cheapest and most successful solution if that doesn't work maybe mess with beads and location but pick up a HQ wire and u'll be good to go.
chris
 
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