Problem clutch

[adumas]

Hi... I'm new to the forum and hope someone can help.

I have a 2 month old 50cc dax motor - it had been running great until a couple of days ago. We noticed that from a cold start, we had to pedal about 30 yards to finally turn over the motor. A couple of days ago, a new problem arose - we pedaled and the motor didn't turn over at all. There was almost almost equal resistance with or without the clutch engaged.

I opened the clutch cover (see attached pic) and watched as I pedaled. The inner part of the large gear moves freely forward and back. The little gear occasionally engaged with the outer gear - but not much. If I disengage the clutch and move the bike back and forth by hand, I eventually get resistance - almost to the point of where the motor tries to turn over. Each time I disengage / engage the clutch, the same thing happens - no resistance and then resistance.

The resistance is still not enough to turn over the motor. I can pedal for 30 yards and it doesn't turn over.

It seems like it is something is slipping...

Any help? things for me to test?

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Try this- First, spray some brake cleaner in the clutch assembly with the lever locked in.
If that doesn't do it, take off the plate (count the turns of the "flower" or "star nut" when you remove it) and scuff up the clutch pucks with some 60 grit paper.

Once back together, turn the flower IN a half turn extra, it will give a bit more pressure on the plate.

 

[adumas]

Thanks for answering...

How do I take off the plate? Do I need a special tool? What is it called? Is it something I can pick up at the hardware store?

I'm not sure what the clutch pucks are.

Sorry, but I'm new at this - love to learn though..

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Take off the little phillips head screw and then unscrew the "star" nut. the rest will come off and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

It looks like your star nut is almost unscrewed in the photo, maybe you will want to take out the phillips and turn the star in a few turns then replace the screw first.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

No special tools required. Pull the clutch in and lock it first.

 

[wjose]

HELLO,

I Briefly got my new bike to run and noticed the clutch slipping going up a small hill, my kit is also a 50CC Kit. I'm baffled the other day it actually fired up and ran and today no go there is no spark, anybody has an idea on what ohm check to use on the magneto and coil, does the coil have to make contact with the frame.
Will

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Check the connections on the plug wire, sometimes the cap will fall apart internally, or the wire is not screwed into the CDI all the way.

 

[adumas]

Hi... I got the star nut to turn with some pliers - it was pretty tough to turn - the pliers kept slipping. Is there a tool I can get to do this? I have 4 HT motors and want to service all of them - and I don't want to damage the star nut...

By the way, when I removed the plate, I noticed that all of the pads seemed to have grease on them. Is this normal?

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

If you pull in the clutch and lock it, the star nut will turn easier.

No, the grease it the reason it's slipping. Clean it with brake cleaner, then re-assemble.

 

[MotorbikeMike]

Re: Problem clutch/Correct adjustment proceedure

Hello,

I can see that htere is still confusion about the clutch adjustment.

#1 adjust all unnecessary slack from the cable, leave only a tiny amount so as to not load in the clutch.

#2 Lock in the clutch lever

#3 remove side cover, remove setscrew, and turn flower nut with either needle nose pliers, or a flat screwdriver if it has a groove across the face.

#4 inspect clutch by removing flower nut, or if only adjustment is desired move to setp 5

#5 turn flower nut in, lift rear wheel off the ground, and adjust the nut in till the rear wheel binds a bit, then back it off till rear wheel just spins freely.

#6 re-assemble

#7 ride it like you just stole it, off you go


Mike

 

[adumas]

Re: Problem clutch/Correct adjustment proceedure

Hi... I think I have been following the directions... There is no slack in the cable and the clutch lever is locked in. I can tell it is properly done because with the plate removed, I can see the correct operation of the clutch as I engage and disengage it.

I will try again by cleaning the pads - but I would greatly appreciate it if someone can help me out with the tool that makes taking off the star nut.

I post pictures when I'm done...

 

[adumas]

Yahoo!!! It works!!!. Once I took the pads and scoured them on the 60 grit sand paper, everything worked....

I'm so relieved.

Of course, I'm now wanting to buy the little pads... Who can I purchase them from?

Secondly, what type of grease (if i should put some) should I put between the large and small gear? Will it eventually seep in and again contaminate the clutch pads?


P.S.

I'm attaching pictures to help others see what everyone has been talking about.

Each of the pics show the progression. I was amazed at how dirty the pads were.

 

[adumas]

Here are the remaining pics...

 

[wjose]

I have very little spark and I ohm checked the cap and coil they seem to show OK, but I'm still thinking bad connection. The wire going into the coil from the cap is screwed in? How can I remove the wire to the coil? the cap screws in to the wire, what would be the best way to try and eliminate that without getting a new one just yet, I would like to be sure it is that.

Bill

 

[misteright1_99]

The wire also "screws" into the CDI. An auto parts store is your best bet for a new wire, only a couple of bucks for a automotive coil wire, comple with molded on cap. Another loose connection to try is up inside my stock cap there is a screwdriver slot that keeps the cap together, might be loose....These engines dont produce alot of spark, a NGK or Champion plug gapped at between .020 and .025 for best performance...