Pocket bike engine
- Thread starter u2seek42
- Start date
Al.Fisherman
New Member
My question also..it has a 6 tooth sprocket.
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/engine-sprockets-t8f-25h-34775.html
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/engine-sprockets-t8f-25h-34775.html
Last edited:
city of angels
New Member
i have one of this motor coming at the end of this month i am going to try to mounted on a trike i will post pics when i get it mounted
Easy install:
Buy and mount a used BMP or Staton friction drive kit on your bike. Use a 1.25", 1.375" or 1.5" friction roller.
Install a rear tire with flat street tread.
Remove engine sprocket and bellhousing.
Bolt pocket bike engine onto BMP/Staton housing, hook up throttle and cable.
Install muffler or expansion pipe.
Install fuel tank, hook up gas line with petcock and filter.
Fill tank with correct fuel/oil ratio.
Prime carb's bulb. Pull start engine.
Hop on and motor away!
Don't do it, the Quality on those motors is worse than on the china girls, they're designed to power Toys.
I own one. Worst decision ever. And the 'RT' carb they come with is crap compred to a Real Dell'orto.
Shell out some cash and get at least a Go-ped motor if you really want to go friction drive. But unless you really feel like major rework, those pocketbike motors will just leave you frustrated.
I own one. Worst decision ever. And the 'RT' carb they come with is crap compred to a Real Dell'orto.
Shell out some cash and get at least a Go-ped motor if you really want to go friction drive. But unless you really feel like major rework, those pocketbike motors will just leave you frustrated.
city of angels
New Member
my friend has one but not as a friction drive but as a regular set up and so far his has about 1500 miles with no problems
lowracer
New Member
U2seek42,
I have 3 pocket bike engines (Stage 2's) & they are good quality & very powerful. The one you are looking at has less compression & shouldn't need headbolt changes. I bought slightly longer head bolts, copper base gasket, red loctite, auto spark plug wire & NGK plug & have thousands of miles on mine. The RT carb is great & I wouldn't fool with the jetting (I did & fried a piston)...
-Lowracer-
I have 3 pocket bike engines (Stage 2's) & they are good quality & very powerful. The one you are looking at has less compression & shouldn't need headbolt changes. I bought slightly longer head bolts, copper base gasket, red loctite, auto spark plug wire & NGK plug & have thousands of miles on mine. The RT carb is great & I wouldn't fool with the jetting (I did & fried a piston)...
-Lowracer-
wayne z
Active Member
I dont think thats the same as the gtr50. This engine has a one piece head/cyl assembly and doesn't use the long studs.
lowracer
New Member
WayneZ is correct.
The DAX GT50R engine was different & not this base model engine. Different head, piston, wrist pin size & compression ratio.
I think Dax discontinued the engine since it does require some attention & mechanical know-how to keep running at its peak. A few of his customers just bolted it on & went until the head bolts loosened enough to allow air seepage (leaning out) & fried the pistons. Seems the engine head bolts are a bit too short (80mm's) & longer ones can be purchased from McMaster Carr (95mm). These are a bit too long, but a few small washers just under the socket cap to take up the extra length works fine. The red-Loctite on the trheads to keep them snug & a copper base gasket to prevent the cheapo paper gasket from certain destruction & the engine is good to go for the long haul.
-lowracer-
The DAX GT50R engine was different & not this base model engine. Different head, piston, wrist pin size & compression ratio.
I think Dax discontinued the engine since it does require some attention & mechanical know-how to keep running at its peak. A few of his customers just bolted it on & went until the head bolts loosened enough to allow air seepage (leaning out) & fried the pistons. Seems the engine head bolts are a bit too short (80mm's) & longer ones can be purchased from McMaster Carr (95mm). These are a bit too long, but a few small washers just under the socket cap to take up the extra length works fine. The red-Loctite on the trheads to keep them snug & a copper base gasket to prevent the cheapo paper gasket from certain destruction & the engine is good to go for the long haul.
-lowracer-