Painting the removable plates on the engine?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by MotorNut123, Sep 10, 2010.

  1. MotorNut123

    MotorNut123 New Member

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    When I swap my motor over this winter to a cruiser I'm thinking of painting the plates on the motor (clutch plates....etc) just to add that final little touch. Has anyone ever done this? Does it look nice and make the motor pop? Just thought i'd see!
     
  2. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    It looks good and you don't need high temp paint. Use whatever paint you would use on your frame.
    Just a suggestion but why not paint the engine crankcase along with the covers? It blends everything together that much better.
    Good luck and post some photos of your finished project.
    Tom
     
    #2 2door, Sep 10, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2010
  3. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    the aluminum casting is so rough, spray paint sticks right to it. just make sure there's no grease or dirt on them.

    here's mine:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. MotorNut123

    MotorNut123 New Member

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    Ok yea it looks sharp with painted plates. I'll definitely be putting up pictures throughout by build! I can't wait
     
  5. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    Just clean them thoroughly with a good solvent first. MEK, acetone, or even brake cleaner will do it.
     
  6. MotorNut123

    MotorNut123 New Member

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    Yup, I always make sure I clean whatever I'm gonna paint real good. Comes out better without grease all over!
     
  7. tim turbo

    tim turbo Member

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    How did you get a motor with the carb on the front and the exaust on the back??????!!!!!!!
     
  8. MotorNut123

    MotorNut123 New Member

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    I yea it is backwards!
     
  9. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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  10. Maxvision

    Maxvision New Member

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    If you really want to ad some pizazzz, polished covers are the way to go!

    Start with 120 grit wet and dry sand paper wrapped around a flat piece of wood (so you don't get hills and valleys). Be sure to rinse the paper often so it doesn't load up. Once you get past all the dimples and casting deformities reduce grit to 220, then 320 untill you get all the deep scratchs out. Then a buffing wheel with buffing compound (I use white diamond, cuts almost as fast as Tripoli but leaves it with a finish shine).

    If you don't have access to a buffing wheel, with ALOT more work you can reduce sanding paper to 400, then 600. Rubbing compound with LOTS and LOTS and LOTS of elbow grease will give you the finish shine.

    Shiney Side.jpg
     
    #10 Maxvision, Sep 19, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2010
  11. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Quote: If you don't have access to a buffing wheel, with ALOT more work you can reduce sanding paper to 400, then 600. Rubbing compound with LOTS and LOTS and LOTS of elbow grease will give you the finish shine.

    I've looked everywhere and no one carries, 'Elbow Grease'. Can I use NeverDull instead? :)
    Actually it is/was a good product. I think maybe the EPA has outlawed something they used to put in it because it just doesn't seem to work like it used to; and it smells like kerosene. Nevertheless, lacking a buffing wheel and compound, a good quality metal polish with said, elbow grease, (arm power), a decent finish can be achieved, after sanding the surface smooth as Maxivision suggested. Good luck. Let us know how it comes out.
    Tom
     
  12. corgi1

    corgi1 New Member

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    I got some really fine microfinish alum. oxide paper strip ,its like touching a non waxed car,smooth ,no dust,but you know something s thereI think they used it on the HT cranks so you know its not worn out lol,kind of like frosted glass only less drag the marking on it is 20 w/a ushaped symbil behind it
     

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