well basically i really screwed my bike up . i was cruising and all of a sudden a bunch of my spokes snapped , jamming my chain into my drive sproket which in turn took a corner of my clutch cover off. my question is a) where can i get another clutch cover? and b) whats the best way to not have to constantly have to fix something?
now what!!!!!!
- Thread starter mrz3r00
- Start date
Do you mean "clutch cover" on the right?
1) that'sdax, your engine seller, etc are sources of both the clutch and the left chain cover.
2) Mostly very carefully put stuff together and then watch and maintain it carefully.
Was the wheel a old one, or a newer wheel? My first bike snapped spokes right and left, but it was 30 years old.
Post a wanted ad in the swap shop, I'm sure you'll get a cover for a couple of dollars.
In fact, PM me your address, and I'll send you a cover for the price of shipping (5 bux) no need to buy a whole engine for a 5 dollar piece....
In fact, PM me your address, and I'll send you a cover for the price of shipping (5 bux) no need to buy a whole engine for a 5 dollar piece....
Are you sure your tensioner didn't move and the tensioner caused the spokes to snap? I have never heard of several spokes just letting go all at once, but it's possible.
We can provide numbers, but a lot of it comes down to "feel". Do your spokes feel flimsy, taught or like a g-string. Feel the spokes on a new bike at a shop (not a discount store) and compare how yours feel. Adjust your spokes accordingly.
My manual says to adjust my tensioner for 15mm (half inch or less) of chain deflection but does not say how much pressure to apply. Again, it comes down to feel.
It will come to you with a little experience. Cheers
My manual says to adjust my tensioner for 15mm (half inch or less) of chain deflection but does not say how much pressure to apply. Again, it comes down to feel.
It will come to you with a little experience. Cheers
I agree with Joe. It's more probable that your tensioner loosened, a notorious problem unless you secure it to the frame, and got into your spokes.
To avoid this get your tensioner alignment perfect, even if it requires a little twist in the bracket to get the wheel aligned with the sprockets, then drill a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay. Install a #10, grade 8 screw through the hole and a lock nut with Loctite on the inside (wheel side). Be sure to position the tensioner so you'll have room to move the wheel up or down to adjust chain tension.
Some guys here do not use a tensioner at all and avoid the hassles. However that requires shortening the chain and leaves little room for adjustment when the chain starts to wear and stretch. That's something else to consider. The kit chain, usually #415, is not the best quality. Look for an industrial supplier near you, Grainger, Tractor Supply, etc, and pick up several feet of good quality #41 chain. It's slightly wider but unless you buy the real cheap stuff will run smoother and last longer without significant wear or stretch. Good luck.
To avoid this get your tensioner alignment perfect, even if it requires a little twist in the bracket to get the wheel aligned with the sprockets, then drill a 3/16" hole through the tensioner bracket and the chainstay. Install a #10, grade 8 screw through the hole and a lock nut with Loctite on the inside (wheel side). Be sure to position the tensioner so you'll have room to move the wheel up or down to adjust chain tension.
Some guys here do not use a tensioner at all and avoid the hassles. However that requires shortening the chain and leaves little room for adjustment when the chain starts to wear and stretch. That's something else to consider. The kit chain, usually #415, is not the best quality. Look for an industrial supplier near you, Grainger, Tractor Supply, etc, and pick up several feet of good quality #41 chain. It's slightly wider but unless you buy the real cheap stuff will run smoother and last longer without significant wear or stretch. Good luck.
