Noob Needs some Advice
- Thread starter Slogger
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Huh.. the oil must go to making a slime layer inside the muffler or something ?
I'll keep an eye out for it.
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There's plenty of oil going through, I guess it doesn't smoke because it's hardly being burned. It really loads up quick.
I just checked the plug (after 3 hours) and found it wet with oil to the point of fouling. Since it's all standard jet and whatnot the float needs to be looked at.
Then I'll take it for another spin.
It was blubbering rich, I can't let that go on. Lol.
I'll keep an eye out for it.
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There's plenty of oil going through, I guess it doesn't smoke because it's hardly being burned. It really loads up quick.
I just checked the plug (after 3 hours) and found it wet with oil to the point of fouling. Since it's all standard jet and whatnot the float needs to be looked at.
Then I'll take it for another spin.
It was blubbering rich, I can't let that go on. Lol.
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out of all my builds and bad experience with chains i started going to tractor supply and buying a better chain i think its a 410. It sure does beat getting stuck about 5 miles from home with your back wheel locked up.
Lowered the float level, bike is able to 2 stroke and even idle, I actually got to try out the kill button.
The plug looks better, nearly dry and the insulator is a darkish brown. A bit rich, and that's fine for now. I opened the gap to .026.
It will need a lot more miles before any more changes.
The plug looks better, nearly dry and the insulator is a darkish brown. A bit rich, and that's fine for now. I opened the gap to .026.
It will need a lot more miles before any more changes.
I've got a few more miles on it, it's starting to run a little better but is terribly rich at all rpm. I do believe the float level needs a tad more adjustment, but I'll be careful not to go too far. On a end-of-ride full throttle run (for a couple hundred feet) it reached the sizzling velocity of 23mph. heehee. Works out to 4400 rpm, mostly 4 stroking.
This thing is really fun.
This thing is really fun.
Hi gang. I don't know if anyone is following my noobie progress, but in case you are, here's an update-
The float set lower didn't really fix it, but the .66 jet I got from SBP (thanks, fellas!) seems to have corrected the rich blubbering.
Now it will 4 stroke on trailing throttle, but it runs right when asked.
It has a willingness to rev now, I opened it up this morning and reached 26.5 before letting off and slowing down to break in speed. With the long manifold (low rpm power) and new engine, 40 tooth cog on a 29" wheel, it is geared pretty tall. It is already fast enough for me, but I like to check its progress by doing short kamikazi charges now and then.
Also, I found the head needed re-torqued after 22 miles and the muffler flange nuts were a little loose and I found some black specks on the pipe. All the other bolts and whatnot are holding real good.
The Onex bike is doing fine, I try not to rely too much on the coaster brake and the wheels are running true with no play.
I would like to adjust the bar height using the 2 allen head bolts in either side of the adjustable stem, but one of them has been jack hammered in so tight I'll need a driver for the impact that fits it to break it loose.
I guess it's done, now I'm bored again.
Might as well go for a ride!
The float set lower didn't really fix it, but the .66 jet I got from SBP (thanks, fellas!) seems to have corrected the rich blubbering.
Now it will 4 stroke on trailing throttle, but it runs right when asked.
It has a willingness to rev now, I opened it up this morning and reached 26.5 before letting off and slowing down to break in speed. With the long manifold (low rpm power) and new engine, 40 tooth cog on a 29" wheel, it is geared pretty tall. It is already fast enough for me, but I like to check its progress by doing short kamikazi charges now and then.
Also, I found the head needed re-torqued after 22 miles and the muffler flange nuts were a little loose and I found some black specks on the pipe. All the other bolts and whatnot are holding real good.
The Onex bike is doing fine, I try not to rely too much on the coaster brake and the wheels are running true with no play.
I would like to adjust the bar height using the 2 allen head bolts in either side of the adjustable stem, but one of them has been jack hammered in so tight I'll need a driver for the impact that fits it to break it loose.
I guess it's done, now I'm bored again.
Might as well go for a ride!
I run the needle in the second slot from the top. (One less than full lean)
Seems to be good for break in
Seems to be good for break in
Thanks, Maniac. That's where I left mine, too. It seems to run pretty well there.
In an earlier post I mentioned my bore being shiny chrome. I had the head off last night and shined a bright light down in it. I could see the cross-hatches they put in the bore to wear in the rings, finally.
In normal light it just looks chrome. I could also see fine vertical scratches, evenly distributed all around the cylinder walls. Hopefully these are normal break in wear. There's lots of oil everywhere, so I'm not too worried about them. It is running better and better.
In an earlier post I mentioned my bore being shiny chrome. I had the head off last night and shined a bright light down in it. I could see the cross-hatches they put in the bore to wear in the rings, finally.
In normal light it just looks chrome. I could also see fine vertical scratches, evenly distributed all around the cylinder walls. Hopefully these are normal break in wear. There's lots of oil everywhere, so I'm not too worried about them. It is running better and better.
This is a really bad suggestion, you cannot maintain even spoke tension and wheel trueness with a bunch of loosened and bent spokes. No matter how many spokes are in the wheel! The rear wheel's strength is the sum of the equality of each and every spoke's pull and integrity.
I used a sprocket adapter on my bike. Another hundo down the drain.
This is why I don't recommend anyone else to bother with these 48 spoke bikes.
If I had picked out the bike for motorizing in the first place I would be many dollars ahead.
Today's warmer, humid weather is messin with the jettin. Too rich one way, cold natured the other. Fickle little engine, this one.
This is why I don't recommend anyone else to bother with these 48 spoke bikes.
If I had picked out the bike for motorizing in the first place I would be many dollars ahead.
Today's warmer, humid weather is messin with the jettin. Too rich one way, cold natured the other. Fickle little engine, this one.
Now the kit's gas tank petcock only shuts off in one precise position. I'm glad the needle and seat are working ok, or the engine would be full of gas and locked up.
I found a plastic go kart gas shut off and put it in the line above the carb. It even has click stops for off and on and shuts off tight.
I think the rubber piece that is the actual valve has already degraded and is a total POS.
If I can locate a metric threaded hose barb that will thread into the tank, I will place that petcock in the trash where it belongs.
(Just wanted to warn other newbies about these kit parts.)
I found a plastic go kart gas shut off and put it in the line above the carb. It even has click stops for off and on and shuts off tight.
I think the rubber piece that is the actual valve has already degraded and is a total POS.
If I can locate a metric threaded hose barb that will thread into the tank, I will place that petcock in the trash where it belongs.
(Just wanted to warn other newbies about these kit parts.)
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I've learned something that might be of interest. Fall has arrived here and the temps are in the high 40s to about 60. With the 25/1 mix and new engine I found that a hotter spark plug, NGK B5XXX runs much better and warms up quicker. Part of the trouble I was having with the burbling and stumbling was that my rides were too short and the engine wasn't getting warmed up all the way. (And the mixture is still a little rich, but that's ok for now.)
I also put a Lightning CDI on it, mostly to get the advantages of a hotter coil. I tried a gap of .032 and it ran ok, but it starts better at .030.
NOW I can get it to break in. It's got to have some time at full operating temp to do its thing, boys.
For those interested in the things, the Lightning CDI hasn't increased my top speed (it isn't the spark that's holding this one back) but it does seem to pull harder off idle, run smoother and a lot less sputtering. I like it fine.
A bigger coil can't hurt anything, and the Lightning CDI comes with a nice one. I used my old spark wire with it (SBP supplied) since it never interfered with my Speedo and is the right length.
Anyway, a hotter plug can get her warmed up quicker when it's cool outside, and the bike runs much better.
We hit 26.7 today without even trying, and cruised all over at about 21.
It pulled up small hills with ease, I think it's going to be a good little engine.
One last thing- if you see little pits on the end cap of your spark plug, those are caused by not having your spark wire metal piece not fully down on the plug. Ask me how I know..
I also put a Lightning CDI on it, mostly to get the advantages of a hotter coil. I tried a gap of .032 and it ran ok, but it starts better at .030.
NOW I can get it to break in. It's got to have some time at full operating temp to do its thing, boys.
For those interested in the things, the Lightning CDI hasn't increased my top speed (it isn't the spark that's holding this one back) but it does seem to pull harder off idle, run smoother and a lot less sputtering. I like it fine.
A bigger coil can't hurt anything, and the Lightning CDI comes with a nice one. I used my old spark wire with it (SBP supplied) since it never interfered with my Speedo and is the right length.
Anyway, a hotter plug can get her warmed up quicker when it's cool outside, and the bike runs much better.
We hit 26.7 today without even trying, and cruised all over at about 21.
It pulled up small hills with ease, I think it's going to be a good little engine.
One last thing- if you see little pits on the end cap of your spark plug, those are caused by not having your spark wire metal piece not fully down on the plug. Ask me how I know..
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